jwc Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Gothover got game? jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Nice JW, those are going to be awesome for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 If you made a new one, you might try moving the woofer up a little like they did in the CWIII. I think that helped to get rid of some of the midbass hump. Not sure that is going to be an possible, the midhorn will be 3-4 inches taller than the original horn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 We need a really smart solution for this. Got one? I don't know if it would work or not but could you build a box for this upgrade and simply have the box sit on top of the existing speaker such that you don't have to cut anything? All you'd have to do is some crossover wiring so the proper wires go to the outboard horns rather than to the inside horns. I know some won't like this because it will be considered unattractive...perhaps even plug ugly with all the exposed parts! however, you must consider the source of the idea... [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Early Cornwalls just have the fabric wrapped around the motorboard with no grill at all. I don't know when the use of a removable grill started on the Cornwalls. Probably around mid-seventys. Bob Thats right...and the ones I've worked on come out pretty easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 I like that idea too richard. Include a crites tweeter on top and add some handles. Now you've got a cute, small portable box. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 is there a horn depth issue still? even with a separate box won't the HF section be deeper than the basic CW box? Now we're back to a modified Cornscala type construction, either that or something a bit obtuse looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 The safe thing would be to just make a new motorboard and stor the old one in the closet, until you decideyou really don't need it anymore. If you made a new one, you might try moving the woofer up a little like they did in the CWIII. I think that helped to get rid of some of the midbass hump. It would be very difficult to remove the motorboard, I think they are glued in. They certainly are in the Cornwall II's. Shipping costs would go up too. The kit I'm thinking of would be fairly compact. And it would have been easy to install too, but now Gothover has gone and made the whole idea very difficult with this grill issue. Greg CW II's might have the motor board let into a dado in the surrounding panels- impossible to remove (although I've not inspected one closely, this would be typical construction from MDF to maximize glue surface area) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Posted by djk (M ) on August 11, 2002 at 21:04:20 In Reply to: Re: Radial tractrix horns posted by freddyi on August 10, 2002 at 17:23:28: The K703 Tractrix horn may be crossed at 700hz. It was used in the KLF20/30 with a phenolic midrange driver and a tweeter. It was also used with a 2" VC wide range aluminum diaphragm compression driver, without a tweeter, in the now defunct Epic series. Ordered as a repair part from the service department for "your freight damaged KLF20/30," the Klipsch part number is 130024 and the MSRP is $30. If a bunch of you try this, get your sh*t together first. Don't all order the same thing on the same day. And don't all ask for a 130024. Remember that this horn was used in the KLF20, KLF30 , and Epic CF2. They might jack up the price if they think people want it. Most of their other horns are big bucks. HERITAGE PARTS PRICE LIST KLIPSCH PART # MSRP K-33-E WOOFER 121501 100.00 K-75-K TWEETER 129010 60.00 K-52-K MIDRANGE 160708 62.00 K-703 HORN 130024 30.00 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Please take note of the date on the original post, the prices are from seven years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Greg, I REALLY like the idea of a 2" format horn designed to do something like 600 - 20Khz if that is possible. Integrate your horn with only the bass bin. Much simpler. Can you imagine a 2-way cornwall with a 2" driver on a tractrix style horn? That would be the cornscala killer........and it really does make sense to try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted March 25, 2009 Author Share Posted March 25, 2009 Greg, I REALLY like the idea of a 2" format horn designed to do something like 600 - 20Khz if that is possible. Integrate your horn with only the bass bin. Much simpler. Can you imagine a 2-way cornwall with a 2" driver on a tractrix style horn? That would be the cornscala killer........and it really does make sense to try it. I agree, but I'd be tempted to do it with a twin-15 cabinet! Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 if that's what you're after put a K510/K69A in there.badabing badabang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 DJK posts the K604 (or K602) horn which was used in the forte II and numerous pro speakers. Yup, it's tractrix. I still like the big 2" throat of the K510, it's nice and shallow too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 We need a really smart solution for this. Got one? I don't know if it would work or not but could you build a box for this upgrade and simply have the box sit on top of the existing speaker such that you don't have to cut anything? All you'd have to do is some crossover wiring so the proper wires go to the outboard horns rather than to the inside horns. I know some won't like this because it will be considered unattractive...perhaps even plug ugly with all the exposed parts! however, you must consider the source of the idea... Coyotee, I have already done this with the larger Tractrix horn and it works excellent. I simply plugged the the K-600 midhorn, transplanted the crossover to the upper cab and used the original binding post to connect the woofer. The problem being the length of the horn. The new proposed 1" and 2" horns should be a perfect fit for either internal or external applications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 Prototype pic 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 Pic#2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted March 28, 2009 Author Share Posted March 28, 2009 Nice looking horns Gothover. What are you using for the sides? I've been using brads and nailing the sides to the tops and bottoms, then I spend a lot of time filling the holes and sanding. I like the smooth look over having screw heads showing, but I'm not sure it's worth the time. Do you find that having so few screws holds the sides without having gaps? I must put at least 40 brads in per side because I feel like the sides are not pulling tight against the tops and bottoms if I don't. Once the glue dries, the brads aren't doing a whole lot, they're just there to hold the sides tight while the glue sets. Dimensions of your Cornwall horns? Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 I dont have the exact numbers but the horns are roughly (mouth 7x14) (depth 11) The sides are masonite. As for the brad nails, I got tired of the gaps as well, and I like the classic look of the screwed sides, reminds me of the original KHorn squalker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted March 28, 2009 Author Share Posted March 28, 2009 I dont have the exact numbers but the horns are roughly (mouth 7x14) (depth 11) The sides are masonite. As for the brad nails, I got tired of the gaps as well, and I like the classic look of the screwed sides, reminds me of the original KHorn squalker. Interesting. When I look at the design for a 400Fc horn in the tractrix calculator, using a 2" throat, the horn size is about 9" square (or equivalent rectangle) and the depth is about 6-3/4". So the design provides for a smaller horn when using a larger throat driver? My question on the gaps referred to the use of only a few screws per side. I would be concerned that in between the screws, the wood would not be making good contact and that there might be gaps. Not trying to give you a hard time, just trying to learn more about your experience with this. How thick masonite? I don't think I've seen masonite thicker than 1/4", which of course does not mean it's not available. It looks like you're using 3/8" thick masonite. Thanks for your input on this. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 So the design provides for a smaller horn when using a larger throat driver? Larger throat...shorter the horn. Mouth size will be the same for same Fc and same "full space". jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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