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Bi-Amping K-Horns


jcmusic

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I am currently bi-amping Klipschorn Jubilees (2-way configuration - see profile). Knowing that you didn't ask about those specific versions of the Khorn, here is a reference to bi-amping La Scalas, which should be very similar to bi-amping Khorns: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/123738.aspx

Chris

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Who here has their k-horns bi-amped? Please give me some info on this.

Jay

Jay,

Have you heard the Jubilees??

If you have not heard them yet, I would recomend a listen before you drop money on the amplifiers at this point. Yes, you will probably run a pair of XTIs like most do on the Jubilee, but after spending many hours listening to Kevin Harmons pair with his KPT-684 dual 18 inch sub, I can honestly say that it is a no brainer, and I would not have thought that possible prior to hearing his. To me, the MCM-1900s sound just like a larger version of the K-Horn, but both the Jubilee, and the KP-600 stacks are an improvement over the orriginal design. I would like to hear J.C.s MCM Grand fours with a pair of KPT-684s as I feel that must be the altimate.

Roger

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Who here has their k-horns bi-amped? Please give me some info on this.

Jay

Jay,

Have you heard the Jubilees??

If you have not heard them yet, I would recomend a listen before you drop money on the amplifiers at this point. Yes, you will probably run a pair of XTIs like most do on the Jubilee, but after spending many hours listening to Kevin Harmons pair with his KPT-684 dual 18 inch sub, I can honestly say that it is a no brainer, and I would not have thought that possible prior to hearing his. To me, the MCM-1900s sound just like a larger version of the K-Horn, but both the Jubilee, and the KP-600 stacks are an improvement over the orriginal design. I would like to hear J.C.s MCM Grand fours with a pair of KPT-684s as I feel that must be the altimate.

Roger

Roger

I have updated my k-horns with Greg's V-Trac's and BMS drivers/ALK Universal's. I had toyed with the bi-amping idea in the past, I am just trying to get a feel for what it intails. My goal is (I think) to have a similar punch in the low frequencey's at low listening levels like you have at high levels, if that make any sense.

Jay

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My goal is (I think) to have a similar punch in the low frequencey's at low listening levels like you have at high levels, if that make any sense.


The easy way to do that is to add a sub. From what I hear, a Khorn's bass energizes the room, but not in a punchy way.
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My goal is (I think) to have a similar punch in the low frequencey's at low listening levels like you have at high levels, if that make any sense.


The easy way to do that is to add a sub. From what I hear, a Khorn's bass energizes the room, but not in a punchy way.
I thought about a sub as well, but does a sub work well with k-horns? Also I am not real sure about how I can hook one up in my system.

Jay

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but does a sub work well with k-horns?

I'm certainly no expert to answer that...I would suspect it would take quite a capable sub to keep up with Khorns. When I first heard about subs I started looking around at them. I could never get comfortable that they would 'keep up' with my LaScalas. Heck... some of the guys I'd ask about it had never heard of LaScalas... so that didn't help my comfort zone on buying anything.

Fortunately, at the same time, I also had my EV's (Interface D) which are not as efficient as LaScalas however, have a -3 db point at 28 hz so they added a very nice floor to the sound when I played the 4 together. Yeah...it might have been a cacophony of sound to some but boy... did it boogy the walls and floor when asked to!!!

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Who here has their k-horns bi-amped? Please give me some info on this.

Jay

Jay,

Have you heard the Jubilees??

If you have not heard them yet, I would recomend a listen before you drop money on the amplifiers at this point. Yes, you will probably run a pair of XTIs like most do on the Jubilee, but after spending many hours listening to Kevin Harmons pair with his KPT-684 dual 18 inch sub, I can honestly say that it is a no brainer, and I would not have thought that possible prior to hearing his. To me, the MCM-1900s sound just like a larger version of the K-Horn, but both the Jubilee, and the KP-600 stacks are an improvement over the orriginal design. I would like to hear J.C.s MCM Grand fours with a pair of KPT-684s as I feel that must be the altimate.

Roger

Roger

I have updated my k-horns with Greg's V-Trac's and BMS drivers/ALK Universal's. I had toyed with the bi-amping idea in the past, I am just trying to get a feel for what it intails. My goal is (I think) to have a similar punch in the low frequencey's at low listening levels like you have at high levels, if that make any sense.

Jay

Jay,

It makes perfect sence. The twin 12s in the Jubilee have more punch then my K-Horns or even my TSCMs.

Klipsch still makes a sells the KPT-684 brand new, and while not a subsonic Woofer (Good for Movies and synthesized stuff) it will certainly do anything for any kind of music you could want. I think that all of the Jubilee owners need to talk with Kevin Harmon. After many hours listening to his Jubilees with and without the 684 running, I don't see how a Jubilee owner could live without one. I have a pair of Velodyne HGS-18II subs. They were alot more money then the Klipsch and for shotgun blasts, depth charges, and truely sub audible frquencies, they are killer, but for music that KPT-684 has the punch hands down and would be more then enough for your K-Horns.

Roger

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Who here has their k-horns bi-amped? Please give me some info on this.

Jay

Jay,

Have you heard the Jubilees??

If you have not heard them yet, I would recomend a listen before you drop money on the amplifiers at this point. Yes, you will probably run a pair of XTIs like most do on the Jubilee, but after spending many hours listening to Kevin Harmons pair with his KPT-684 dual 18 inch sub, I can honestly say that it is a no brainer, and I would not have thought that possible prior to hearing his. To me, the MCM-1900s sound just like a larger version of the K-Horn, but both the Jubilee, and the KP-600 stacks are an improvement over the orriginal design. I would like to hear J.C.s MCM Grand fours with a pair of KPT-684s as I feel that must be the altimate.

Roger

Roger

I have updated my k-horns with Greg's V-Trac's and BMS drivers/ALK Universal's. I had toyed with the bi-amping idea in the past, I am just trying to get a feel for what it intails. My goal is (I think) to have a similar punch in the low frequencey's at low listening levels like you have at high levels, if that make any sense.

Jay

Jay,

It makes perfect sence. The twin 12s in the Jubilee have more punch then my K-Horns or even my TSCMs.

Klipsch still makes a sells the KPT-684 brand new, and while not a subsonic Woofer (Good for Movies and synthesized stuff) it will certainly do anything for any kind of music you could want. I think that all of the Jubilee owners need to talk with Kevin Harmon. After many hours listening to his Jubilees with and without the 684 running, I don't see how a Jubilee owner could live without one. I have a pair of Velodyne HGS-18II subs. They were alot more money then the Klipsch and for shotgun blasts, depth charges, and truely sub audible frquencies, they are killer, but for music that KPT-684 has the punch hands down and would be more then enough for your K-Horns.

Roger

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Jay, just a couple of thoughts.

Do you have the Crites woofers? I noticed a slight gain in low end performance with them in my Khorns.

Are your Khorns sealed well into the corners?

Have you tried re-arranging furniture in your room, or tried a different listening position?

The Jubilee bass bins will certainly give more punch than Khorns. I'm working on integrating my V-Trac setup with them, but I've got a long way to go before I have it figured out.

Greg

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Ok guys this is just a fact finding mission right now, I don't have any problem with what I am hearing now. I was just trying to find out if I could here similar at low levels. When I turn up the gain some my k-horns come alive, the bass has alot more of that punch to it, and I was just trying to find out if I could achieve similar results at low levels.

Jay

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Ok guys this is just a fact finding mission right now, I don't have any problem with what I am hearing now. I was just trying to find out if I could here similar at low levels. When I turn up the gain some my k-horns come alive, the bass has alot more of that punch to it, and I was just trying to find out if I could achieve similar results at low levels.

Jay

Jay,

Makes sense, similar to a loudness button for low listening levels. I understand that...

So, are you thinking KTIs, or??

Roger

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Ok guys this is just a fact finding mission right now, I don't have any problem with what I am hearing now. I was just trying to find out if I could here similar at low levels. When I turn up the gain some my k-horns come alive, the bass has alot more of that punch to it, and I was just trying to find out if I could achieve similar results at low levels.

Jay

Jay,

Makes sense, similar to a loudness button for low listening levels. I understand that...

So, are you thinking KTIs, or??

Roger

Roger what is KTI's?

Jay

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Ok guys this is just a fact finding mission right now, I don't have any problem with what I am hearing now. I was just trying to find out if I could here similar at low levels. When I turn up the gain some my k-horns come alive, the bass has alot more of that punch to it, and I was just trying to find out if I could achieve similar results at low levels.

Jay

Jay,

Makes sense, similar to a loudness button for low listening levels. I understand that...

So, are you thinking KTIs, or??

Roger

Roger what is KTI's?

Jay

Sorry Jay,

Mistyped XTi or Crown XTi like most are running to bi-amp their Jubilees.

Cheapper Pro Amps with alot of programable functions so you can set up the active crossover points for the EQ and program out time delays for different lengths of the individual horns as well if I understand correctly.

Roger

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yes, you can get better bass at lower levels, in fact with passive bi-amping, you should not run higher levels (just to be safe)

here are my posts:





Passive Dual-amplification



Like everything else with Klipsch, the use of two
simultaneous amplifiers on super-sensitive loudspeakers, like the Reference
series or big ole horns is NOT as crucial as typical power hungry cone
loudspeakers. There is also a time delay issue with bi-amplification, which
pertains more to cone drivers that constant directivity horns.





Paul W. Klipsch himself said that all the Khorns need is a
good 20-watt amplifier. Except for a few posts, active bi and tri-amping Khorns
is not as popular as upgrading the drivers and the crossovers.





If you “dual-amp” your big ole horns WITHOUT an active
electronic crossover passive dual-amplification - each amplifier receives a
full range signal and clips at the same point it did with only one amplifier
hooked up to the speakers. The distortion of the high frequency (HF) horns masks
distortion from the low frequency (LF) amplifier, when it is clipping. This
means that if you use a 10-watt HF amp with a 50-watt LF amp it would take 400-watts
to play the same level undistorted through the passive crossover!





I matched tube amplifiers with a 40-pound, Class A,
solid-state amplifier rated at ten times more power. I use the delicious
sounding tubes on the mid and high horns, with the cement amplifier on the bass
bins. Maximum power at clipping on the Bottlehead Paramours is 6-watts.
Clipping on the Pioneer M022 is 60-watts. I think this power ratio is important
to balance loads in a passive dual amplifier configuration. Otherwise you get
some nasty balancing issues, which are best resolved by an active crossover. Using
active 3-way stereo crossovers however, is more expensive and tricky to get
just right.





Passive amplification with dual amplifiers sounds better for
me, since the bass bins are driven by my massive Class A amplifier with
excellent impedance control. Yet, I am NOT getting the full benefits of
dividing the signal ahead of the amplifiers. It is more like driving my big ole
horns with a sweet and powerful sounding 200-watt amplifier – at a quarter of
the price.



6/6/2009





Posted: 12/7/2004





Like the Cornwall,
the 15” woofer in the Khorn bass bin is run full range. The crossover limits
the signal to the mid and high range horns. I am not really bi-amping, more
like passive dual-amping. I am running flea-powered Bottlehead 2A3 Paramour monoblocks
SETs on the top crossover (mid and upper horns) and a 70s vintage, 48-pound
Pioneer M-22 dual monoblock (think mini-Threshold) solid-state amplifier on the
bass bin. The Paramours are rated for 3.5, but put out 6 watts. The Pioneer is
rated for 22 extremely low THD Class A watts, but puts out 60 watts. I think it
is important that the power output of the amps be similar



This is passive dual-amping rather than active bi-amping. I
have a classic Dynaco tube pre-amp with two sets of RCA output connectors.
Other wise, I would get a good splitter and send the full signal from your
pre-amp to your dual amps. Be forewarned that I do not crank my music very loud. Just a little bit of power is enough
to fill my townhouse and the neighborhood. Also, neither of my amps have a lot
of power. They just have excellent low power sound.







I have classic Klipsch corner Khorns with K-55-M composite
squawker, square K-77 tweeter and AK-2 crossover. There is a black dual fuse
binding post panel inset (a crossover to us laypeople) into the outer wall of
the lower bass bin. Copper Monster speaker cable runs from the high-frequency
(HF) binding posts on the bass bin panel to the exposed AK-2 crossover in the
top section. A second set of binding post are marked Low Frequency (LF). Against
Klipsch forum advice, I disconnected the top crossover from the bottom bass
panel, by removing the speaker cable connection between them. I then connected my
massive Pioneer M-22 to the bass bin with thick, gray Coincident rattlesnake
cables (yes, it makes a slight difference to the bass). I connected my
cherished Bottlehead Paramours to the directly to the AK2 crossover with a gold
speaker cable adapter. The two amplifiers receive the full range output from
the sets of outputs on my pre-amplifier.





I love it. I think every high-end stereo system with
efficient drivers could benefit from tubes. This solution gives the bass the
power it needs.





The monster Pioneer has the best control of the bass of any
amplifier I have heard on my big ole horns. It sounds similar to the $6k Pass
X250 I heard on my walnut-oiled Cornwall
1s, with B2 crossovers - but only at low to moderate low volumes. The sweet
tubes have immediacy, delicacy, soundstage and imaging. A wonderful combination
so far, though I will admit I do not crank it very loud. I understand that
since I am running dual amplifiers, WITHOUT an active electronic crossover
ahead of the drivers, each amp receives a full range signal and therefore clips
at the same point it did previously. So I am not getting the effect of 4 times more power as I would with true
bi-amping, where you divide the signal ahead of the amplifiers. Bi-amping with
an active crossover may be tricky, so I will probably go with a custom
extremely steep slope ALK crossover. True bi-amping will cut off much of the
signal going to the bass bins and allow the woofer and the bass amplifier to
concentrate its energy on the energy intensive bass signal. I also have a very
deep and powerful ACI Titan sub-woofer, so I am not in a hurry to move to the next step.



12/27/2007





As far as more gear is
concerned, by going to an active crossover you are running the same amount of
gear. You have source>preamp>crossover>amp>speaker instead
of source>preamp>amp>crossover>speaker. There are certain
advantages to having the speaker directly coupled to the ampifier: less power
compression, more efficient, better damping, no back-emf, etc





DJK 12/18/2007: True, but
easy to remedy. You can have the same transfer function as your passive
crossover by sizing the input capacitor to your Paramour monoblocks, and gain
about 6dB of dynamic headroom (from removing the bass signal). You can continue
running the Pioneer as you are because you have power to burn (relative to the
Paramour). Because the input cap will be so small (from the 270K input
impedance of the Paramour) you can try what would (at speaker levels) be very
expensive caps; Mundorf oils or Teflon.





If you need still another 6dB
dynamic range, the Paramour may be wired for 16 ohms and the tweeter crossover
from the Klipsch LB-76 network used instead of the AK2 HF sections.





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