Cut-Throat Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 I have put some rubber weatherstripping along the edges of my Khon's Bass Bin to fit against the wall. I bought the stuff at Home Depot and it is used for Windows and doors. I have a problem with the stuff not sticking very good to the wood edges of my Khorn's 'TopHat' Can someone recommend a product that sticks better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryC Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 I and some others on the forum use those 3'-long cylinders of foam pipe insulation. They're slit down one side to slide over a pipe, and are sized to fit either 3/8" or 1/2" pipes. I slid 1/2" (I.D.) foam over the bottom edges of the top hat and along the side edges of the tailboard. The foam is easy to cut, notch, or trim on the diagonal to fit around obstructions like braces on the tailboard, etc. It's sticky enough to stay put on the various edges, and so far hasn't taken the finish off. I was afraid weather stripping might do that over time. It's a little bulky, but seems to work well. I haven't tried the smaller 3/8" I.D. foam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 I use the same foam pipe insulation. To seal the bottom properly, where the gap is larger, I use a pool flotation spagetti. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 I use the same foam pipe insulation. To seal the bottom properly, where the gap is larger, I use a pool flotation spagetti. In my province, we call it a noodle... []Good idea though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 In my province, we call it a noodle... Soooooooooo, if I called you a noodle-head, you'd have to grin & bear it? [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Richard Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 I recently put some pipe insulation on the tailboard and top edges of a friend's Khorn with great results. Easy to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 I use the same foam pipe insulation. To seal the bottom properly, where the gap is larger, I use a pool flotation spagetti. In my province, we call it a noodle... Good idea though. Yeah, I was translating that from french. Didn't sound right... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 I know what you mean. I used pipe insulation from HD on my brother-in-law's SKs (near copy of Khorn). In that situation is was matter that the walls in the corner were not square. The term may be that the walls "run away". It is surprising how much of gap can result between the back of K-Horn and a corner where it needs a seal. Some of pipe insulation comes with an adhesive which is sold with a film cellophane to protect it. Sort of like a Band-Aid plaster. Some of the stuff doesn't. If you don't clean the plywood, the dust contaminates the adhesive and it doesn't stick. It is still not clear what you're using. It could be the weather seal which is rectangular in cross-section. That might not be enough and the pipe type is needed. In that case, the pipe insulation forms a C in cross-section. Then you're relying on the thickness and that the adhesive area is right at the edge of the plywood. That might not be enough. Consider putting the rectangular cross-section weather stripping on the edge of the ply. Then put pipe type over it. The rectangular type will fill the inner cross-section of the C. That way you get a lot of resiliant foam in cross section and you're not relying on the adhesive too much. It is also a bear to cut the corners of the pipe insulation where the tail board meets the plate at the top and bottom. It is necessary to make some test cuttings with, say, 5 inch pieces, to get things to mate. You might end up wasting some of the insulation but the stuff is fairly inexpensive. The ultimate results should be worth the effort. Wm McD . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebrof Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 I'm resurrecting this post because I just did the Foam Pipe Insulation yesterday. The difference is not subtle at all, well worth the cost (3 insulators x $1.64 each). Took about 20 minutes. I got the type that is pre-slit and pre-glued. I've been enjoying the mids and highs from my KHorns with my SET amp, but wishing there was just a little more bass. The insulation has really kicked the bass up a couple of notches. I may try the pool noodles on the bottoms at some point, but I'm not sure how that will help. Bottom line - If you think you have a good seal you probably don't. And the difference between a seal and a good seal is the difference between bass and good bass (at least in my situation). Just do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmikid Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Interesting. Did someone take pics of this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebrof Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 I'm to lazy to take pics of what I did at the moment, so I'll post Rudy81's. I'll try to just paste here. If it doesn't work here's the link to Rudy81's pictures: http://www.prontoweb.com/klipsch_HT.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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