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Upgraded RF-7 crossover - W/pics


InVeNtOr

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here is my redone crossover upgrade. i redid everything on here.

used Sonic Cap and Pulse X (400v) caps.

Alpha core inductor

new wire

Cardas solder

gold binding posts

mills resistors


I used 12awg wire on the power and 14awg to the woofers and tweeter.
the reason I went with Sonic Craft caps is because I didn't want to add color to my speakers. SC are more true and detailed then most. The other brands usually add some "warmth" to the sound and I didn't want to add any more warmth than I had. I chose to have a more accurate speaker and use my cables and wire to add the color. I like my speakers detailed so by default they have to be more bright than warm. All the gold and copper I added offsets just enough to keep the ear fatigue away. My set up is 100% movies so I used the caps I believed would give me the best results for my tastes.

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the Alpha Core inductor. i changed this out to help me out in the bass area. i felt the bass was lacking very much. to me it seemed like something was missing and i figured i needed to do this. i did change the the value, gauge, and DCR. i took Jeff's advice (Sonic Craft) for the values as he was the one who helped me pick and choose my parts.

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side view. you can see how i installed the binding posts a little different. i needed the most surface area for the gold lugs, so i installed them that way. it doesn't make the binding posts pretty, but they work a whole lot better, in this application.

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ok, this pic is where i am going to get some hate mail, maybe. a keen eye will see a 1.8 ohm resistor. this is why:

when Dean does the crossover mod, he parallels a 10 ohm and a 2 ohm resistor together, that equals 1.667 ohms. the reason behind it (as its told) is to reduce the harshness in the speaker.

my mod has something extra in it. my Horn is moded (by me) to reduce the Highest highes. they roll off a touch and for me reduces the harshness. now the resistor in question (the orginal 2 ohm). that resistor does NOT control the highest highes. it is part of a notch filter. {now i am not smart enough to read this diagram, i got my information for Jeff from sonic craft. so if there is some detail info you need, please contact him}.

in the notch filter the inductor controls the highs, the cap the lows, and the resistors is what controls how the signal passes between. so basically by lowering the resistence you are allowing more signal to go through the cap. this lowers the highes in this circuit. think of the signal as a bell curve, this notch filter would be mid way up and would have a small spike in it. (i know that may not be the case but it's how my brain can process the information). by lowering that value from 2.0 to 1.667 it lowers that spike.

now i made my value 1.8 because i have the horn modified and i do like my speakers a touch "high". it was also discussed it would blend in more with the other mod. i have to say, i agree. i let my speakers break in for over 100hrs before i did any listen test and these have never sounded better. all in all, it is what i have been "missing."

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This is an upclose shot of the binding posts and lugs. I didn't want to use solder because I wanted to keep as much copper and gold as I could. 4N copper doesn't corrode much so leaving the ends untinned is OK. All the "gunk" is silicone. I at first put it on all the ends to help prevent corrosion but I later found out that the wire I used doesn't corrode that fast. I ended up taking what I could off.

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The RF-7 schematic is incorrect. Should show 16uF in the low pass, not 18uf. Should also show 2 ohm in the LCR of the high pass, not 3 ohm. The DCR values for the high pass coils don't look right to me either. I didn't look at the RC-7 schematic -- don't need the heartburn.

You changed the internal volume of the cabinets, and the DCR and inductance of the low pass coils -- which means you changed the port tuning. It would be interesting to see the effect caused by the change in inductance -- what value did you change it to?

The 12uF Sonicap in that pic looks like it took a hit from something. If it's just into the tape, it's O.K., but if into the cap, I would replace it.

I'm giving you a 'C'. I would have given you a C+, but I had to take off some because you used Sonicaps.

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Its hard to explain about the bass. To me, it seemed like something was missing. I don't know if I was giving them a fair shake, but now I think I corrected all issues. I use to have them crossed at 40 Hz and my LPA-1 was its sole power supplier. Now they are full range, XPA-3 powers them, have better RCA cables, and the UMC-1 to control it all. The entire HT experience is much better.

Dean, I forgot the value and lost the paper work. It still is a. 75mh , but the gauge is different. Maybe 14? I think that's right. U can get the DCR from SC site with that info.

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I am sure that was the biggest piece of the puzzle. I am sure the amp made a slight improvement too. I also know the RCA cables I made had more bass output than my monoprice ones. I did a good A/B test before the switch over. It was enough of an improvement that the wife asked what I did. She thought I turned the sub up. All in all adding all those elements up accounts for the improvement.

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I also wanted to add something about why I chose the caps I did.

I have read from other people that they didn't think their 7's were harsh. So I looked closer and it seemed like people with good amps didn't hear issues where as people with normal AVR's would comment more about the harshness. So I figured the gear was more to blame than anything. I wouldn't think Klipsch would design and build a speaker that basically sucked. So I simply wanted to have more accurate and clear caps with out much of any color. That way if for some reason I change my gear I don't have to worry how they will sound with a new crossover.

So basically that's my reasons. The end result is I am very happy with the entire gear change and all mods. To me from what I have now to what it was, is a completely different sound and for the better.

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  • 4 years later...
  • 6 years later...

OK, so now this is a 10 year old post. I just picked up a set of RF-7's had a full listening day with them so far, and I really like them. A little hot way up high, but I love the detail they have. I want to do some crossover mods, because, why not. What would @Deang do with them at their age? SN 02100280 and 02100281. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks! -Marc

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On 1/30/2021 at 8:40 AM, beerguy said:

OK, so now this is a 10 year old post. I just picked up a set of RF-7's had a full listening day with them so far, and I really like them. A little hot way up high, but I love the detail they have. I want to do some crossover mods, because, why not. What would @Deang do with them at their age? SN 02100280 and 02100281. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks! -Marc

Do some more digging here on the forum I believe this has been covered quite extensively in a few threads. Congrats on the Rf-7's they are some great speakers!

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