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Jub-Like Drone Build (Jubilee)


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Fritz, Thanks for the advice and I have a New Freud around here somewhere. I have reversed the blade for Aluminum before but not for plexi. I will certainly try it on a test piece. I went ahead and ordered enough 3/4" to cut both hatch covers, so we shall see.

On another note, I unpacked the TC Sounds Passive yesterday. This speaker was packed as well as anything that I have ever received. Doubled boxed and totally enclosed in foam. Great packing job.....! Man, this thing is built like a tank and I guess it has to as the washers and nut total 2.5 pounds. They provide 18 large washers and a huge nut (see pics). I will have to increase the spacer I am using for the K-12 (3/4") to at least 1" for the very heavy, protrucing surround. I am wondering what affect this will have as this passive os dumping into a 5' x 9" slot. Do you guys think there will ever be a need to open the passive "Slot" up to a round opening. The passive is definately designed to be mounted through a hole rather than being bolted face first to the motor board. The spacer makes this possible. The height of the surround is .8", just a tad thicker than the 3/4" spacer I made. The CSS passive has still not arrived yet.

A couple of pictures:

post-57654-13819667331158_thumb.jpg

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3 1/2 inch in the advertised P-P excursion, the '07 models advertised 40 mm one way linear, or 80 mm P-P excursion. With a slightly different spider spacer, they may have gotten another 4.5 mm one way, so I would tend to believe their specs. On the 2010+ model VMP, is there a single spider, or duals with a spacer ring in between, I have ones with single spiders and ones with dual spiders.

Also, they went to a much thicker ( 1 mm ) cone on the newer ones, as some of the early aluminum ones when heavily massed, would work harden and crack around where the surround attatches to the cone.

Keep in mind you need enough room to clear the front of the surround at full forward excursion with the spacer, so that the surround doesn't wear on the throat plate. I know it will be a tight fit..... but as long as you can cram it in, I am sure that it will work for you.

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I went ahead and ordered enough 3/4" to cut both hatch covers

Lemme get this straight...you're ordering some expensive plexi to make a clear hatch cover (I presume for top hatch only) to then make a top horn unit that will sit on top of the plexi, covering the very thing you wish to see? (and perhaps scratching it up over time?)

[:^)]

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Actually the hatch is to observe the passive in action. The hatch cover sits between the front face of the "Horn" and the rear support bracket. Their will be a clear view down into the dog-house.I don't think there is a neeed for Plexi on the bottom, do you? If $34.00, for enough plexi to make two covers is expensive, I really missed the boat on some other Items I purchased for these......Its really ALL an experiment anyway and I wanted to view the action of the passive with the different weights added. Should be a rather interesting view.

Hope that made some sense.......

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Here is the line up of speakers and passives for testing (Have NO idea why I left the ashtray in the picture)

Upper Left: Kappa 3012LF

Upper Right K-31

Lower Left: K 12 Passive

Lower Middle: CSS AMP 12 Passive

Lower Right: TC Sounds VMP 12 Passive

The difference in construction between the CSS abd the TCS passive is very impressive. The TCS is built like a tank and the weight system looks to be more substantial that the CSS. Of course, the TC Sounds is exactly twice as much as the CSS Passive. I am very curious as to how the K 12 is going to compare to either of the adjustable mass passives. This should be very interesting. Does anyone have a 1" thick spacer. The TC Sounds needs one and all I have is 3/4". I guess I will have to cut something to work.

post-57654-13819667644782_thumb.jpg

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Michael,

The TC Sounds passive appears to have a carbon fiber cone, as it is rock hard and does not resonate like aluminum. It has a single basket made of very thick aluminum. As to the spider, it appears to be a single, as far as I can tell. It is pretty tight in there. There is plenty of room to the rear for this to operate but I will need to come up with at least a 1" spacer for the front mounting. I may just double stack two 3/4 rings (they are a PIA to cut) to give me a full 1.5 inches to the front. The drawings show .8 clearence is needed. It appears that all the movement is to the rear of the passive. Should be interesting to see it in action. I may make that my first Yutube posting of a video.

I have a few things to finish up with on the second cabinet and then will start loading the drivers. Speaker A will have the K-31's and the K-12 passive and speaker B will start with the kappa's and the CSS passive. I will test the TC Sounds between both cabinets. Also, if there other drivers that need to be tested, please let me know as now is the time to include them. I at times wish these were 15", because i have a whole list of woofers that I would like to try. I also have a set of EV 12W's that might be interesting to test.

I am at a stage where I can get most anything for testing these. Is there a check list of the things needed as I would be open to any and all suggestions for testing. I will be glad to use what everyone feels is the best equipment and software. I have a microphone that came with the DriveRack 260's and also the software that came with them. I am certainly open to getting something else to use as Iwant this to be for everyone's benifit and want to use what everyone feels comfortable with. Remember, I am lacking in the technical department of testing, as I have been using my ears for years and never tested any sound system I have had. I want to be able to provide the best information that you guys can help me with.

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Tom,

The spacers look GREAT....All I can say is THANK YOU....!

This truly is a wonderful place to gain knowledge and the help of fellow Klipsch enthuasist. Your spacers will really make it very easy to change drivers in the test. I am hoping to have everything in place by Christmas and the testing should begin after the first of the year. I was going to paint the interiors of the speakers black but I just did a couple of sample spots with Wadco Natural on the Birch and they look prety good. I may leave them natural, with oil and do a nice veneer on the fronts later. The cosmetics are really unimportant at this stage compared to the sound that they produce. Working with a couple of Forum members, I believe we have come up with a Top End that will work nicely for the testing.

On another note, I posted earlier looking for any and all input in reference to what should be used for testing these. I am open to all suggestions and would certainly like some help in this area, as what would be the standard that "most" agree upon. Now is the time to suggest equipment as I am willing to put together what everyone feels would be the best test setup. I will say again, I am lacking in the testing end of how it should be done and need guidence in the right direction.

Thanks for everyone's help so far,

W. C.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Loading the first cabinet with speakers. The speaker wires exit the cabinet at the top and will come up to the two way crossovers, that will sit behind the horns. The tops will be tested with the Martinellis and the Eliptracs from Dave. More pictures to follow. Cabinet one will have K-31's with the K-12 passive

post-57654-13819684158426_thumb.jpg

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The second cabinet will have the Kappa 3012LF's with the TC Sounds VMP 12's. All of the tops and bottoms have been pre drilled and ready to install. I have decided to not paint anything at this time as it will make no difference to testing. Everything has been sanded down to 220 grit and is pretty smoothe

post-57654-13819684160566_thumb.jpg

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I noticed the botls for thespeakers are at 12, 3, 6, 9 oclock position. if you put the bolts at 2, 4, 8, 10 o clock position with connectors facing you, you can see them all during install/removal. right now the 12 postion one is hidden.

post-22082-13819684185368_thumb.png

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