Jub-Like Drone Build (Jubilee)

[Panacea Engineering]

All that's left is to put the Top on it.....will do that in the morning and will do the final glue assembly.....

[Panacea Engineering]

Last Pic for today...I'm tired....!

[Panacea Engineering]

Guess who forgot to reset the time on his camera....? Anyway, I was totally surprised that everything fit as close as it did as I was sure that I had made some mistake in cutting an angle somewhere or something would just not fit right. I am pleasantly surprised as other than a little help lifting the cabinet onto the base, this has pretty much been a Solo project.

[Coytee]

I could ahve certainlu useda router to outline the template

I guess it's too late now but if I recall, when the Jubilee is built, the top (and bottom?) overhang by a slight amount and if I recall the pictures correctly, they then simply take a router to shave them down to match the contour of the cabinet and round them off.

You might also consider making the top/bottom over extend to the FRONT of the cabinet by 3/4" or soemthing so that you have an upper/lower lip to sandwich a vertical piece that could hold a grill cloth.

[Panacea Engineering]

Coytee,

Thanks for the great suggestions....! When I get to the point of finishing these I will probably add a 1/4" band to the edge of the tops and bottoms to give them a little 'relief". I must honestly say that assembling these is not an easy task, as there are so many angles that must match and if you are off by an eight of an inch anywhere in the process, it has a compounding affect to the build. I think that I have come up with a sequence of assembly that will eliminate most of the trial and error that I have had to do. I have not noticed anyone else sharing any difficulty in assembly so I guess it is just me that is facing these challenges. I am so very glad that I did not try to assemble both at the same time as it would have doubled the amount of time this one has taken me. The second cabinet will be a breeze, as I have done my learning curve on the first one. One thing I can honestly say is that I am very proud of what I have accomplished so far and I hope it will show in the final product. Little things like plugging and sanding the Kreg Jig slots. They totally dissapear when they are sanded to give you as perfectly smoothe surface to work with. Some of the bracing had to be adjusted for a "perfect" fit and I of course basically doubled the number of them. There are a lot of little tricks that I have learned along the way that make the assembly much easier for one person to do. I am hoping to be able to shoot some Black Sqatin on them by this weekend. I will save the final veneering until after all of the testing is done. It would just be a waste of time and materials now if for some reason this Drone opeion does not work. I have the K-12 and have ordered one each of the TC Sounds and the CSS adjustable mass passives for testing purposes. I am confident that I have an air tight seal on the speaker chamber.

W. C.

[kg4guy]

Very nice work the second is always easier when I built my first set of La scalas it wasn't easy and they are far less complicated than the Jubs however after building a few pair it becomes much easier . I look forward to seeing the finished product and the test results.

[PrestonTom]

It sounds like you are having the the same headaches during assmbly that the rest of us had (certainly that I had). That was meant to cheer you up....

My advice for others is to do what BigD did on his project: Early in the assmbly sequence is the time to get the bottom attached. This helps limit any unintended drift when the inside (verticals) and side pieces are put in place. Otherwise small errors will add up and you will have gaps when you put the bottom and top pieces on. Please don't ask me how I know this.

Keep up the good work,

-Tom

[Bigdnfay1]

Tom's right. I saw the drift problem early in my build and decided to put the top and bottom on. It made things alittle more difficult. They're hard to see in the pic, I drew alignment lines on the top and bottom to position the panels in the right place. This lets you pre-drill your hole for each panel.

Doing a great job by the way. I live in Fayetteville and would love to give them a listen when they are complete.

Big D

[Panacea Engineering]

Big D,

If you ever come through Charlotte and have some time to kill, please give me a call. I probably have enough Klipsch (and other STUFF) here to keep your interest for a couple of hours. Well, anyway, I do know I have enough beer to keep you busy...!

The way I am assembling this, I am using a building table that is on casters, a Lazy Susan, if you will. I have spun this cabinet so many times it could be a propeller. Also, the table makes it easy to lay the cabinet over on its face or stand it up. Anyway, after assembling the dog house, I have used the tops and bottoms for alignment, as it really helps to get everything where it should be the first time. The tops are pre-drilled but they will be the last pieces I Install. I am going to cut the access panels today and would like to reuse the pieces I cut out. I am having some difficulty in my thinking - I will use a Jig Saw with guides but there is absolutely NO room for error. I am hoping that the blade thickness will give me a nice tight fit after sanding. This is one cut that I will really have to take my time with. I have even thought about making the access panels out of plexiglass. Have you priced 3/4" inch plexiglass lately...?[:@]

Your motor board is very interesting. I have to ask; are those litening holes in the center? It looks like they open to the dead area in the ramp setup on the other side. Just curious......

W. C.

[Bigdnfay1]

W.C. My dad and I have a place at Lake Tillery and are up there most weekends,so I'm only about an hour away. We'll set something up. As for the holes in the motorboard. Their there to give the doghouse a little more volume and the woofer mounts are removable. I,ll be removing them and mounting the woofers directly to the motorboard.

Big D

[Guest David H]

Wow, you guys are dedicated. I have not even considered buildig a jub, make my back ache just thinking about it.

Dave

[Panacea Engineering]

Just an update;

I have one cabinet finished but have not painted it yet. Waiting on delivery of some different type woofers and the two additional Drones I ordered for testing. I will post some pictures tomorrow. I decided it was time to do some re-arranging and clean up of the shop, as it was/is badley needed...! Also, with the good wheather we have been having, the new building construction has been moving along nicely. Still shooting for the first of the year for completion, if they don't bankrupt me first...! Trying to keep up with them has been a full time job.

Anyway, I have also been finishing up the build sequence in Word and would like to send it out to a FEW people to help me review it. I need to know who is interested in helping me "Proof" it? Please let me know by email or PM and I will send it out. The drawings are also finished and I would liek to have them reviewed by the same group, that can open an AutoCad (DWG) file. I value everyone's opinion but will be selective as to who I send these to. If you have built a set of Jube clones, you are a prime candidate to help me review these.

I really want to thank EVERYONE that has had input to this thread because I am hopefully compiling everyone's ideas into one build. We are getting close to start testing and i am really looking forward to it. If it works, great, if it doesn't, the experience of building them has been most rewarding and I will end up with a set of regular clones, which is fantastic...!

W. C.

[Panacea Engineering]

Dave,

What can WE come up with for the top end...? I am looking forward to your suggestions. Maybe something OVAL shaped,,,ERRRRR Eliptical...!

W. C.

[jwc]

Got the 2 K31's boxed up tonight. Been very busy at work. Will get them shipped to you by weeks end.

jc

[Panacea Engineering]

Jc,

Please take your time.....!

I have enough $h!t around here to keep me occupied for a while....! I am going to put the other cabinet together, install the Kappa's and the VMP 12 in that one. I will be able to do a side by side comparison.

Again, THANK YOU for all of your help with this....!

W. C.

[Panacea Engineering]

All the hatch covers are cut out; using the Roto-Zip worked very well and only left minor sanding of the edges. The Tops and Face will be veneered sometime down the road, as the cosmetics have no affect on the sound or testing. The hatches fit on top of the Dog House panels and will make a very good seal using foam gaskets. I am still thinking about using plexiglass for the Top Hatch. I will go ahead and paint the interior black to get a good smoothe surface and give it somewhat of a finished look. With the exceptionally warm wheather we have been having, I have had to devote much more time to the building construction than I had originally planned. I am still shooting for the first of the year to have most of the testing done.

Hopefully this week, all of the ordered speakers will be in (two additional passives and two additional sets of woofers) The testing should be fun. I am probably looking at being set up to start the testing around December 5th. Having both cabinets to work with should expedite the testing and be able to make side by side testing a breeze.

W. C.

[Panacea Engineering]

Just a teaser,

I will be posting some pictures later on this afternoon. have been having some camera issues...... We are still waiting on the Creative Sound Solutions passive, I am hoping it arrives today. if it is anything like the TC Sounds passive I will be very impressed. That thing is built like a tank.....! After having it in my hands, I can certainly "ALMOST" understand the high cost. The CSS was half of the price, so we shall see what the differences are. This entire week will be devoted to finishing up the little things that need to be done. I have decided that I am going to use Dave's Eliptrax for one of the top ends. I am not dure, at this moment what to put on the second cabinet. There are lots of options, unless someone wants to donate set of 402's for this experiment.

Got one price for two 3/4" Plexiglass hatch covers, cut to deminsional drawing with Chamfered edges and drilled for $384.00. I'm sorry but I think that is a little steep, as I can buy the raw 3/4" for 28.00. I have never cut any thing that thick in Plexiglass so I have no idea how difficult it would be. We will research this further. If anyone has a good source for the Plexiglass and cutting, please let me know. I would think it could be cut pretty easily with a CNC Router.

Update and pictures to follow later today,

W. C.

[Guest David H]

I would think it could be cut pretty easily with a CNC Router.

I am not sure about cutting the plexi on a cnc router, I trid this a while back and had lowsy results. I cut my plexi on the tablesaw with 84 tooth diable blade, however I have never cut thicker than .5"

After the cut, you can cand the edges, the polish with a map gas tortch.

Check this out. http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Plastics_Library/How-to-Cut-Plexiglass

Dave

[Panacea Engineering]

Dave,

I am like you, I have never cut anything thicker than 1/4' on the table saw. I was afraid with that thickness that the heat may tend to melt it. I guess there is only one true way to find out. I will probably go ahead and order the raw plexi and give it a try. I guess the other option would be on a band saw.

Thanks for the heads up and i will post the results.Wont be the first time I have screwed something up. We will try a few test cuts and i have access to a pretty large Do-All band saw. I just thought 400 bucks was a bit outrageous for five cuts on each piece.

W. C.

[Guest " "]

To cut pex, I use a 100T (solid blade, no titanium tips) blade, mounted reverse. Else, you get big time chiping. Def need eye protection with tat stuff.