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Anybody here modify their horn drivers?


moray james

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Guest David H

I modified a pair of drivers by removing the Ferrofluid. The Ferrofluid is used for cooling the voice coil for pro applications. For my purposes the voice coil would never see any major power and was un-needed. The result flatter response and better lf extension.

Was is worth it? Not really the changes were minimal and for the most part inaudible.

Dave

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Thanks for sharing Dave. I find that some mods can be minor as far as impact goes but the cumulative affect of an array of mods can impress. I also understand not wanting to mess with expensive components but I generally do any way and I make every effort to insure that I can undo what ever I have done if I don't like the results.

I think that the thread has run its course. I am surprised that no one else has come forward and that there are so few who have ventured to modify their compression drivers. I believe that significant improvements can be had for very little investment of time and materials. If any of you happen to make it to my town you are most welcome to visit and see and hear what I have done. Thanks to all who have contributed. Best regards Moray James.

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I've been thinking about it, more conceptually than specifically, with the idea that pro sound is the main market, and spl and efficiency are there main goals as long as some minimal level of SQ is maintained. Seems logical if the driver design goals were reversed, main goal SQ, with spl and efficiency totally secondary that some improvements for home use might pop out.

OTOH if you just go with the best pro parts its pretty freaking good as is. So from a practical standpoint I think I would start with the best drivers I can afford and look mostly at mating them to the best horn I could "make" or buy.

Side note I met the inventor of Ferrofluidics when he was just getting started, and was so disappointed to find out drivers were almost of no interest to them, they made their money doing sealing systems for wafer fabs. As such they had no time to spend on it, and only almost reluctantly licensed or sold product to few manufacturers.

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I bought some cheap-junk compression drivers, they were really bad.

With a single-port phase-plug they had no high end, 2Khz and they were gone.

They need a better phase-plug (says the audio genius). A drill-press and the driver now has a two-port phase-plug (like the solder-lug K55V or K55M), with the driver exit area calculated for the correct area of the new phase-plug.

Waste of time.

If the driver would have had a lighter diaphragm, or a stronger magnet, it would have been a great mod.

Would this mod work on a single-port K55V?

Maybe.

Would I try it?

No.

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Why would you want to do that? The exit matches the mid horn throats on the Klipsch models that use that driver.

The throat of a horn actually starts inside the compression driver and is formed by the phase plug and the threaded snout's inside diameter. If you open the exit hole you will upset the expansion rate. If there is any mismatch between the driver and the horn it would be better to carefully file the throat of the horn to match the driver's internal diameter. The metal horns sometimes have casting flash and imperfections that are not smooth.

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"Could the K55 be machined to open up the exit hole some?:

I've done it and don't recommend trying it. I must be done in conjunction with an increase in the area of the slots in the phase-plug. It lowers efficiency and requires many network changes for the different frequency response, lowered tweeter crossover frequency and a slope change as well.

The basic K55V design dates back to 1928 with the WE555, and they did a pretty good job on it. Early Klipschorns used the WE713 as a two-way, it had a two-port phase-plug.713, the A and C versions were aluminum, the B version was phenolic.

713back%20copia.jpg

WE713B

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"Could the K55 be machined to open up the exit hole some?:

I've done it and don't recommend trying it. I must be done in conjunction with an increase in the area of the slots in the phase-plug. It lowers efficiency and requires many network changes for the different frequency response, lowered tweeter crossover frequency and a slope change as well.

The basic K55V design dates back to 1928 with the WE555, and they did a pretty good job on it. Early Klipschorns used the WE713 as a two-way, it had a two-port phase-plug.713, the A and C versions were aluminum, the B version was phenolic.

713back%20copia.jpg

WE713B

They could just pick up some WE555's on ebay... I've heard them now a few times.

Here is a pic from the Klipsch Museum.

47.jpg

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Why would you want to do that? The exit matches the mid horn throats on the Klipsch models that use that driver.

The throat of a horn actually starts inside the compression driver and is formed by the phase plug and the threaded snout's inside diameter. If you open the exit hole you will upset the expansion rate. If there is any mismatch between the driver and the horn it would be better to carefully file the throat of the horn to match the driver's internal diameter. The metal horns sometimes have casting flash and imperfections that are not smooth.

I have a wood horn.....

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So are you saying that the throat of your your wooden horn is larger than the mouth of the mid driver? If that is the case then you need to do one of two things, get a different horn or get a different driver. the exit angle and mouth size of the driver should match exactly the enterance angle and throat size of the horn. If not you will have all manner of reflections. Best regards Moray James.

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If you search you will find that this is in fact a common modification. Some like the results some do not. You are correct in your assumption that the screens are there to keep foreign objects out of the inside of the driver. I have removed the screens on two different drivers and was pleased with the results some say that they did not hear a difference or the difference was too small to ofset the benefit of the screen. So you are on your own to decide if you like or do not like the results.

I think that some open cell foam will do much the same job as the screen will sound better and will also privide dampinf inside of the horn throat as well. I have had good results with the pen cell foam used in forced air drum type humidifiers. This can be obtained for little at home supply stores. I hope this is of interest. Best regards Moray James.

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I am not even going to ask but pre burn off any plating or varnish on the screens first . The tweeter screen in the K77 are easy to remove and replace while the mid drivers would have to be pried out. I imagine you can buy replacement screens from Klipsch or Atlas who make the driver check with the service dept. first. As long as you can go backwards and the cost is not significant then you can afford to try without much risk and come to your own conclusion. Best regards Moray James.

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