vnzbd Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 I picked up a set of KG 5.5s last night from the local CL. They are "Light Oak" and are in great condition except for small water rings on both of the tops. Are there any known ways to remove the rings? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Gee, this topic comes up frequently. If the ring is white then the finish was probably either oil or lacquer. It can be removed by rubbing with a light abrasive such as a paste made from baking soda and water. Do google search and you will find more specific instructions. Keep in mind, depending on the degree of damage, this will not be a perfect cure (refinshing would be required for that). Good luck and enjoy your "new" speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 you could always get some smoked glass tops for them and you wouldn't have to do any sanding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vnzbd Posted July 26, 2013 Author Share Posted July 26, 2013 Thanks for the tips! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 I would first try a thin coat of petroleum jelly on the area overnight. Then wipe off. It can't hurt to try. WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php I've been using this stuff for years, it's great. Any decent hardware store carries it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leftwinger57 Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 When my post appears you will notice I had the same problem. Mine were on the dark side soI asked advise from a Polk Club member who just happens to be a wood worker as a profession.Ther are some steps and need to be followed in order. This of course is depending on how severe the stains are and mine were. 1.Use chemical stripper to remove any old finish and varnish.2. Steel wool using 00000 gu 3.After dry apply Oaxalic wood bleach on primarily the stains not to wet saturate the batch so not to warp the wood.(carefull the dry crystals cause sneezing fits) 4.Vacumum off then tack rag clean. 5. Sand to your hearts content w/ 150 grit or higher sandpaper then lower the grit till that baby butt feel.6. Again tack cloth clean then use finish of your choice and after that use either a satin or gloss poly. I just did my Polk SDA-2bs w/ Light Oak tops and now they are Walnut...... be very careful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxx Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Those dirty rings... I've tried everything... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 The petroleum jelly thing works if there are white hazy blemishes in the varnish or lacquer. If it is down in the wood it is a bigger issue. WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 some of these recommendations are calling for some aggressive actions. These would in turn require a new "finsh" to be applied. Do you know what the current finsh is( lacquer, oil etc)? Some finishes can not be mixed (eg applying oil over a lightly sanded lacquer). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philly0116 Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Watco rejuvenation oil and 0000 steel wool....or smoked glass tops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vnzbd Posted July 26, 2013 Author Share Posted July 26, 2013 A lot of good ideas. I only know the finish is called "light oak", no more details are provided on the website. I think I will start with the baking soda since I have it here. I have enough other projects going on so that I don't want to open the can of worms! Thanks again everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 it is possible that the code for the finish is embedded in the serial number on the back of the cabinet. Does part of the SN contain "OO" or "OL". The second letter woupld indicate oil or lacquer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 You have to do some homework first. http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/watco/rejuvenating-oil as you can read on that link, rejuvenating oil is for a finish that is oil in the first place. Is there a sticker on the back of the speakers with initials like OO oiled oak, or LO. It will give a hint as to what finish you have. Let us know and someone can decode. My guess is that you have lacquer. Oil will darken oak and if it is light oak my thought is that it is not oil. Don't use a chemical stripper to remove lacquer (if you must remove it). Lacquer thinner or acetone (nail polish remover) will melt it, if it needs removal. WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vnzbd Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 Well I have read through the posted specs for the KG fininshes. My guess is that it changed as the series progressed. KG 1,3, and 4 are listed as "Oak Oil" KG 1.2, 2.2, 3.2, 4.2 and 5.2 are listed as "Oak, Oil, Oak Clear" my guess is that somehow the comma between Oak and oil is misplaced and it should read "Oak Oil, Oak Clear". KG 1.1, 2.5, 3.5, 4.5, and 5.5 are listed as just "Light Oak". On all finishes for the 5.5 there is no mention of an oil option. Maybe a call to Klipsch is in order? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vnzbd Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 Well todays call to Klipsch confirmed a lacquer finish. My first try will be the baking soda and if that strikes out the Howards. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vnzbd Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 Well just an update on the water rings. I went with the Howards "Restore-a-Finish" followed by Howards "Feed-n-Wax". They now look great. I also did a set of Chorus IIs in "oak clear" and they came out amazing as well. Again all, thanks for the tips! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzydog Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Good to know. Thanks for the update. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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