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holtrp

DIY Dayton Audio 18" build thread

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It's the last (first?) pic in the Home Theater Showcase section.

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I bet your Ib set up is insane. I saw that photo a while back but didn't know that was your system. I actually thought about doing Ib. I have a large crawlspace behind my front wall. But the boss wasn't interested and when we remodel, we're planning on changing g the layout so ib wouldn't work. Anyway, 4 sealed 18s is plenty for me so far. Pretty idiot proof set up and should provide years of enjoyment. If I really get bored, I'll probably just go to Home Depot and get the stuff to build 4 Martysubs.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1491319/diy-sub-to-match-hsu-vtf15

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Here's what data bass says about them:

"The driver does not have a huge amount of displacement but it is certainly has more powerful low bass output than the geometric 12.75mm xmax rating might suggest. An effective useful excursion rating would likely be more like 18-20mm."

I really don't know enough to speak intelligently about the xmax, xmech, q, or any to the other metrics associated with subs. All I know for certain is that these things absolutely have delivered the low end I have been looking for. Totally reminds me of my two 15 ID q's in my old toyota Tacoma ext cab. Sitting at the airport, it's going to be a long two weeks waiting to play with them again.

Any thoughts on outboard USB sound card and mic combos? Sort of lame behringer software is only able to run on PC, luckily I have my work computer for that. Looks like REW works on iOS. I want to flesh out an actual procedure for tuning these subs as I am prone to just making adjustments and playing around.

Holt, if you use the numbers you are doing around 16 liter of air in the room. Vd is not the whole pictures since motor strength also play a big part combined with the amp power pushing the driver. You can give me a baseball and the velocity that the ball is thrown by me will be way less compare to a major league baseball pitcher, lol. You are pushing around 45% more air than four similar 15 in. sub. That is like having six or 7 15 in. subs in the room.

Edited by derrickdj1

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If I really get bored, I'll probably just go to Home Depot and get the stuff to build 4 Martysubs

SI is not building that driver anymore.

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I bet your Ib set up is insane. I saw that photo a while back but didn't know that was your system. I actually thought about doing Ib. I have a large crawlspace behind my front wall. But the boss wasn't interested and when we remodel, we're planning on changing g the layout so ib wouldn't work. Anyway, 4 sealed 18s is plenty for me so far. Pretty idiot proof set up and should provide years of enjoyment. If I really get bored, I'll probably just go to Home Depot and get the stuff to build 4 Martysubs.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1491319/diy-sub-to-match-hsu-vtf15

Just finished building a MartySub myself to compare to my single sealed Dayton. I have a solid amount of room gain, so the sealed does pretty well. From 15Hz on up, it's pretty clear - MartySub with the Dayton wins over the single sealed. I've run them both at the same time and get the ridiculous output of a Marty with the extension of a sealed. Running them both brings a whole new smile to my face. However, running sealed and ported at the same time is a whole different can of worms.

Edited by homeskizzle

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Pretty sure the Marty is just an enclosure that is tuned to 17hz that can accommodate just about any driver.

Homeskizzle, what sort of problems are you running into tuning a marty and a sealed together? I am not interested anytime soon, but I think converting two of my sealed into marty box's would be easy enough, one sealed stacked on top of a marty would looked pretty cool flanking the center channel. Running them through the DSP it would probably be easy enough to tune up.

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holt i use the omnimic system from parts exress. its awesome! you can do an insane amount of stuff with it

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So other than the box and speaker you got from amazon what were the other parts you need to build the subs?

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I used Dayton 5 way binding posts.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-bpa-38g-hd-binding-post-pair-gold--091-1245

I used just over 16 oz (2.3 bottles) of Titebond III wood glue (for all 4 boxes)

http://www.titebond.com/titebond_wood_glues/Ultimate_Wood_Glue.aspx

5 24" wood clamps and two 4" C clamps. Mine weren't as fancy, only $15 a piece at Lowes. Probably could have left the tags on them and then just took them back.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_31564-1073-KR3.524_0__?productId=3057143&Ntt=24%22+wood+clamp&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D24%2522%2Bwood%2Bclamp&facetInfo=

32 #10 Panhead 1" sheet metal screws for mounting the drivers.

64 oz (4 lbs) of poly fill per box.

http://www.amazon.com/Polyfill-Stuffing-Polyester-Fiber-Pounds/dp/B0085A87NY

A full tube of GE premium silicone and about half of a 3 oz tube of the same for making sure everything is air tight. Nice to have the smaller bottle after you put the motor board on as using a caulking gun in that space is a nightmare. Also, either use gloves or have some Gojo around, this stuff doesn't wash off.

http://www.caulkyourhome.com/sealing-to-save-time-and-energy.php

Nice rubber mallet. Everything goes smooth until you start putting in the last 3 panels, then it is nice to have a little help get things in place before clamping.

Used a bunch of 14 ga speaker wire I had sitting around and a few pigtail connectors.

Two Speakon two pole connectors

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=115&cp_id=11509&cs_id=1150903&p_id=601500&seq=1&format=2

Then the two Behringer iNuke 6000 DSP amps but that is about it..

Probably spent roughly 16 hours total on construction & putting everything together. I could have thrown the boxes together much faster by gluing more together at a time and spreading my clamps out but opted to take it slow and really make sure everything was over clamped.

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Dayton Audio makes some very competent sub drivers in the HO and Ultimax series. The driver selected is more of a SQ driver , I have two of the 15" Dayton HO sub drivers waiting for cabinets. Dollar for dollar very good value.

Very good choice , nice work.

Investing time in building a proper cabinet(well braced) and using bolts to hold the heavy drivers is time well spent.

Edited by TheEAR

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