Dankimus Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Hey guys, So I picked up the RF-35's and RC-35 this weekend that I found on CL. The guy threw in the RW-10 for free. I removed the amp plate and it is torched in one area. Klipsch says they do not have a replacement available. I am wondering if anyone knows of a suitable replacement, Bash brand or any that I could bring this thing back to life with? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 You could use any wattage comparable plate amp. I doubt you'll find one with the exact dimensions so you may need to modify the enclosure or amp to make it fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BusaDude Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 There are aftermarket plate amps available from places like Parts Express (see link). But you'll have to find something comparable size and power wise. There could also be some EQ built in to the Klipsch amp that you wouldn't necessarily be able to match. Since you received the RW-10 for free. You might reconsider spending the money to get it operating, versus putting the funds towards something brand new. http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer-plate-amplifiers/332 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dankimus Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 Thanx guys for the tips. The 300s at parts express seem to be a good match. Only 40w higher RMS rating than the original... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dankimus Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 The specs on those things are confusing compared to Klipsch's specs. The original amp is rated as such: "FTC Rated Power: 260 watts continuous @ <2% THD / Dynamic Power*: 575 watts / *Dynamic power indicates the actual power this amplifier will deliver to the woofer under normal operating conditions" Whereas the Bash 300s is rated at 300w RMS So am I correct in thinking the 300w Bash is a good fit or should I opt for the 500s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MookieStl Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 I would save the extra $100 and stick with the 300w. You don't want to invest too much in a free sub. the extra 200w would only net you out an additional 2 db +/-. The 300 performs very well. I have used it and liked it very much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthews Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I put one in an RW-12 with excellent results. Took only very minor modification to the cabinet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dankimus Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 Well, I was finally able to order a replacement amp. I went with the Bash 300s as suggested. After checking the fit, the width is perfect, but it needs some work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dankimus Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 So I decided to use the old amp plate as the adapter to make it fit right. I couldn't find the jigsaw in the shop so I used a cut-off wheel on a 4" grinder. A little rough, but you'll never see it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dankimus Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 And the finished product: 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dankimus Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 I ran Audessy and got it all setup. Then the wifey and I sat and watched the movie Lucy. She actually enjoyed having the sub running. I kept it loud enough throughout the movie that she actually stayed awake for the whole thing, which is rare. One thing I did notice with this sub though, The port is very noisey at some frequencies when it is turned up. It produces a very audible "whooshing" noise through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Have heard others calling that whooshing as chuffing but, may or may not be a fix for that. do not know but good job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dankimus Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 Chuffing huh? That's a new one for me. So, from what I gather there isn't much I can do about it besides turn it down? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 (edited) I would post a topic about it in the subwoofer section, just to see other's opinion. There is some keywords like RW-10D or chuffing that may give a result also in the search function. Good fortune! Edited August 11, 2015 by billybob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Very nice! I've used that same plate in a couple projects and they're still kicking a few years later. I've never experienced the noise you're talking about but I wonder if you loose laid some poly fill inside the cabinet if that would help? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 And SORRY op, I see you are here now, to begin with. The sub is ported out of the front top, as may recall. Have you made certain that your plate amp seal is tight? If so, I would turn up the volume to a moderate level and try to dial out or minimize the sound/noise you are hearing. When you turn down the volume to a more appropriate volume level, you may find the sound better. That is, the noise level following the volume down a bit. Hope this helps in your search. Above post opinion may come into it as well. Let us know please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dankimus Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 From what I gather the chuffing is inherent of the design of the tapered oval shaped port.? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 From what I gather the chuffing is inherent of the design of the tapered oval shaped port.? Chuffing is excessive port velocity. If it's always done that then the port was undersized to begin with. If it started with the new amp then it's pushing the driver harder than the stock amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dankimus Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 If it started with the new amp then it's pushing the driver harder than the stock amp. I wouldn't know, the amp was blown when I got it. The sub is ported out of the front top, as may recall the port exits the enclosure through the bottom front, below the forward facing driver. It is a large oval at the exit, reducing port diameter as it extends diagonally up into the enclosure. I watched another movie last night at moderate volume levels and it makes the sound pretty consistently across lower frequencies. It really seems to be a fluttering sound the air is making as it squeezes through the narrower port opening inside the box. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 It really seems to be a fluttering sound the air is making as it squeezes through the narrower port opening inside the box. Do you have a good air tight seal on the amp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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