Jump to content

Lay 'em on the carpet?


Audio Flynn

Recommended Posts

To show my complete and utter ignorance concerning the Chorus II speakers, I have no idea which would be better. I must assume that spikes would improve them as I have found this so with almost 99% of all speakers/speaker stands I have used over the years. I actually have lead shot and sand in my ProAc Mini Towers bases with spikes below that (and these damn spikes GO INTO the floor big time, right through the carpet). The spiking greatly increases the detail, tightness of the bottom end, imaging, and clarity of the overall presentation.

As stated in another thread, I just didnt like the reponse with my Cornwalls, electing instead to actually use WINE CORKS! Worked for me.

I would go with the spikes though; it has made across the board improvements as stated in most offerings. IT really does work with a majority of speakers and I would think the Chorus would be no exception. Only way to find out in your situation is to give it a go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To a large degree, I think it depends on how loud you drive the speakers. At lower volume levels, where vibration is at a minimum or almost non-existent -- I don't see how how it could make any difference. OTOH, if you normally listen at higher volumes, where the speaker cabinets tend to get somewhat "excited" -- I think the spikes help with stablizing the image.

The Chorus does weigh 90lbs, and will probably benefit less from spikes than a bookshelf on stands. The nice thing about really heavy speakers is the built in "mass loading" that helps keep the speakers from shimmying. If you want, just lay a couple of nice heavy books on top of the cabinets, and save your finish by not having to drill holes into the bottoms in order to accomodate spikes.

The other side of all this is the issue regarding nodes in the room becoming excited because of floor and wall vibrations. I think spikes help here because they de-couple the speaker from the floor. Personally, I have only noticed this effect at ridiculously loud volume levels (above 95 db). Your floors would have to pretty "loose" to notice this at anything but the loudest listening levels.

I say get the Chorus' set up and let it rip. You'll know almost immediately whether you need spikes or not. I think you'll find you don't need them, and will benefit the most from just using a couple of books laid flat on top of the speaker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont know if I agree with you here totally. In some ways, yes...as at hight volumes, the spikes do become even more important.

But I have actually found spiking speakers, on almost ALL accounts, improves the imaging and detail as well as DEFINITION at ALL volumes, from low to high. I really recommend going with some form of spiking before more other solutions. Like I said, the ONLY time I have ever found it to be something I did not benefit from was with the Cornwalls as it tended to harden the sound slightly. I am not sure the Chorus would be affected the same way; indeed, I am not even sure what the Chorus look like exactly! But almost all speakers really do benefit from spiking; and with more weight, it improves even more. After I added the lead shot to my ProAcs, I got a noticable improvement in the bass definition with the spikes and I can BARELY lift the beasts without aid. The ProAcs without the spikes take a DEFINITE drop in all areas from imaging to definition, across the board, at ALL volumes. I think low volume listening it really helped as well as the coupling to the floor helps with the definition at low levels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been pondering what to do about this same issue.

I've got a set of Forte IIs and Quartets.

They are basically the baby brothers of the Chorus.

The problem i'm having is the veneer on the cabinet base has a tendency to want to peel when positioning on carpet.

I was thinking of adapting some type of nylon slides like on chair legs.

Although, i've considered filling the bases with sand and putting some sort of modified bottom w/feet on them.

I would like to see what they would like with ball/claw feet on them.

I haven't ruled anything out yet.2.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, those look just like mine. 1.gif

For you DIYer's, here is something I saved from a post a long time ago. This was originally written for Forte's but it can be adapted for Chorus's as well. Here it is...

In and effort to tighten the bass on the Fortes, I placed sand in the riser bases and created a new bottom. Some people use spikes, but I have beautiful hardwood floors that I didnt want to mar.

Forte Mod # 1

Materials All materials were purchased at a local Home Depot.

1. Clear Silicon for caulking gun

2. 36 - 1 1/2 wood screws

3. 36 ¾ wood screws

4. 7 ½ of oak 2 X 1 wood

5. 2X4X1/4 Red oak plywood (Home Depot lists this as ¼ B-4 Rot Red Oak 2X4 CFP)

6. 20lb bag of horticultural grade sand (playground sand)

Instructions

------------

Note: After reading through instructions please recheck measurements. This was written down from memory, although I have performed this mod on seven different sets of Fortes.

1. Flip the Fortes over so that the riser bases are facing up and you can see inside them.

2. Cut the 7 ½ of oak wood into eight pieces (Four that are 13 and four that are 8 ½ long)

Use the 1 ½ screws to secure these pieces of wood one at a time into the interior walls of the riser bases making sure that the 2 side is flush against the riser wall.

3. So, looking down into the riser bases you will see the 1 side facing up toward you make sure that this side is flush with the top of the plastic corner braces of the riser base. This is done so that the plywood you are going to use, as a bottom will sit level on both the plastic corner pieces and the rails you have created. You are securing the rails through the 2 sides into the riser base walls.

4. Silicon the interior cracks where the riser base meets the speaker and the riser base corners. Smooth with finger.

5. Cut the plywood to make two pieces that measure 15 X 10 ½. The 2 X 4 plywood will make four of these bottoms, so go buy more Fortes to modify.

6. Fill riser bases with sand and level with a ruler so that the top of the sand is level with the top of the rails and corner joints.

7. Place plywood piece in place and use smaller screws to secure in place. Secure plywood piece into the rails that you have created. This creates a bottom that should be completely flush with the Forte riser bottom.

8. If you are a real anal retentive, obsessive compulsive Klipsch freak like me, you can even stain the plywood bottom so that it matches your speaker cabinets - although no one will ever see it.

9. Silicon the cracks between the riser base walls and the plywood bottom to keep the sand from leaking.

10. Let dry. Turn the speakers over and enjoy until the next rainy day when you can tackle the next mod.

These mods are all viable for the Forte II and the Chorus series speakers...

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...