Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community
Sign in to follow this  
Pirate

Hersey tweeter replacement and infomation

Recommended Posts

Hi All, I'm a newbie and just discovered this site. I have a set of Heresy's that I bought new in 1977 and they have in storage for  years. One of the tweeters isn't working so not sure if it's the diaphragm or the crossover and I haven't had a chance to put a meter on them. The serial# are 25P006/7, not sure what series these are but the tweeters are K-77, serial # 51685 on the non-working one. Reading an old forum here about the same subject and people replied with upgrade suggestions and sources. Any information would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance, Peter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would not bother with an "upgrade" at this point.

 

First, go ahead and get the voltmeter out to see if the tweeter is reading "open" or not, and then check the connections to and from the crossover (if necessary, swap with the crossover section from the working side)

 

If there actually is a problem with the tweeter, then go ahead and fix, replace, or upgrade. Keep in mind that is best to do both sides at the same time.

 

Upgrading a working K-77 has never made much sense to me. However, there are plenty of competent people who would not agree.

 

Good luck,

-Tom

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome

 

Yes I confirm ask Bob Crites what he has as a solution for you: either a diaphragm for K77 or a CT125 which will repair your beautiful Heresy

 

😄

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, mustang_flht said:

Welcome

 

Yes I confirm ask Bob Crites what he has as a solution for you: either a diaphragm for K77 or a CT125 which will repair your beautiful Heresy

 

😄

Bonjour @mustang_flht,   ,   off beat question    anyway you can check in France    , if you can purchase the Celestion CDX07-1075 , here is North America it is OEM only , so my guess is only for bulk manufacturers -tx

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Geez, Doesn't anyone think the tweeter should be tested first before the guy has to go out and buy new stuff?

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What no recap?

Enjoy your speakers and welcome!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Of course I agree with Preston Tom.  

 

If you don't have a multimeter, you need one.  If you don't know how to use there is a lot of how-to s on YouTube.

 

Generally, at the tweeter teminals you should get a reading of 10 ohms or so if it is good and you'll hear some scratching noise from the tweeter as you apply the probes.  If it is "open" meaning  burned out you'll get a reading of infinite ohms.   (Maybe  OL.)   Whatever you get when the meter is set to ohms and the probes are not touching.  

 

In theory you don't even have to disconned the wires.

 

One good move is to back off the screws on the cross over about one half turn and then snug them down.

 

The tweeter is the driver of the three which is the most delicate and will take 2 to 5 watts continuous.  Failures are common.

 

Check if Bob C will replace the diaphragm for you by mail.

 

WMcD

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...