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Zebrawood Heresy Progress


garymd

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Thanks Dave. Getting back to normal. Man was that a great meal. Crab is out of season but I had rack of lamb and the wife got scotch lobster (along with a few crown & gingers plus wine). Incredible. I drink about once a year. Even with all the food it hits me pretty hard.

My son is salivating over the heresys. He knows they will be included in his graduation present along with the fisher and my old cd player. He'll be set for sure. I just hope I can host a few get-togethers with the heresys complementing the cornwalls as the rears in the HT. What a beautiful combo that will be!3.gif

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On 12/28/2003 11:05:11 PM jt1stcav wrote:

Gary, can you adopt me as your 41 year old son so I can inherit some really cool gear of yours, too?
9.gif

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Jim,

First you gotta make that 12 hour drive north. I don't adopt anyone I've never met.9.gif I'm sure there's something really cool around here I can will to ya.12.gif

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New info is up, including the article from "Fine Woodworking" on using an iron and Titebond II to attach veneer.

The unbacked veneer is really nice. It's thick enough to sand and actually work like wood. Real woodworking!

I'm having a blast doing this project.

No comments on the PWK glue?

Greg

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Greg,

Looking good. I like that glue does it throw off fumes?. I used contact cement on my Khorns and was high for a week. I think I'll have to try your method when I get around to doing my Heresys and KG-4.5s with the black walnut.

One thing I found was that by using purple automotive masking tape to align the pieces there was none of that tape glue left on the veneer to clog up the pores. That required much less sanding to get a smooth finish.

Rick

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Yeah, I guess the PWK glue thing was too obvious. But I thought I'd get some kind of commentary!

The glue just smells like Elmers, not bad. Be careful Rick, I don't know if this iron-on process will work with NBL or paper backed veneer. I've noticed a big difference in the thickness of the actual hardwood that you have to work with. NBL is paper thin, so if you're running an iron over it and a block of wood to set the glue, it's possible to scratch the veneer or rip right through it. This raw veneer is really nice, I wish I hadn't bought the NBL rosewood for my Khorns. Someone suggested the NBL to me because it's so much easier for a novice to work with, but the end result is not the same quality as with the raw.

Greg

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I agree on both counts. I like the thickness of raw veneer,which I used, and I'm kinda kicking my butt that I didn't buy rosewood myself. The thing that stopped me is that raw rosewood is usually about 7" wide and I doubted my ability to assemble and tape a sheet for the front of the Khorns with that many pieces.

I used the iron on banding for the edges.

Those craftsmen down in Hope did such a beautiful job with rosewood didn't they?

Rick

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Greg,

From one woodworker (named Gregg, too!) to another, great job! Very clear, detailed photos and text. I daresay you could submit it to FWW for publication! Seriously. I especially liked your candid photos and descriptions of what went wrong (been there, done that, nice to see how you fixed things). Well done!!

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From Andy HDBRbuilder,

"veneered panels for k-horns came custom-matched and pre-applied from the vendor to the plant...with edge banding already on them and front panels pre-cut to size...except for the upper panels, which still had the corners cut off at the plant. Veneered panels for the Belles came the same way. Veneered panels for Heresys and Cornwalls came the same way, but had to be ripped with the rippied edge facing the rear of the cabinet, then mitered, at the plant."

Rick

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