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Rosewood Khorns For Sale


greg928gts

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Hi all,

I'm offering these a little prematurely, but I'll want to move these as soon as I get them done, so I wanted to get the word out. I have plans for ebay, but obviously would rather sell them to a forum member.

I'm re-veneering a pair of Klipschorns in beautiful Rosewood. These were in excellent condition when I got them, but they had an ugly stain with a greenish hue to them, a place on top where there was a potted plant, and a few little dings here and there.

But when I get done with them they will be cosmetically perfect. The black original grilles are in perfect condition, and I'm installing new PWK emblems. I will be hand applying at least 4 coats of wipe-on poly. This finish is a thin, clear coating that lets the grain show through in vivid detail and is very easy to clean and maintain.

They belonged to a doctor who bought them new. They've been stored for the last 10 - 15 years (he couldn't remember how long). They have all the original older Alnico drivers in them, and they play perfectly and sound wonderful.

Strange though, the model number, serial number and inspection signature are missing from one of the stickers. These are obviously a matched pair of speakers, there's no question. Not only did I get to talk to the owner for several hours while I visited his home, but the construction, materials, finish, aging, everything about them is identical. However, only one sticker has a model number (KCBR), a serial number (7N996), inspected/signed by Bobby Bacham sp?, and tested/signed by N.W.Bradford. The other sticker only has tested/signed by N.W.Bradford. Maybe someone can tell me if the serial number is stamped in the wood like I've seen on the La Scalas and where I could find that.

Serious inquiries only please. $2,700 which includes crating them and bringing them to Forward Air in Boston. I live in Central Maine. The buyer will pay for the shipping from Forward Air in Boston. Alternately, I will work with you if you'd rather pick up ($2,500), or meet me somewhere in New England to pick up, or would like to use a different shipping method. I will also arrange for shipping overseas at buyers expense.

Now you can own a unique pair of Khorns with an exotic and beautiful finish for a fraction of new cost.

Here's a few photo's, Rosewood Klipschorns. I'll post more as I get more work done on them. I expect these will be ready to go the last week of January. I have references as I'm sure most of you don't know me, just ask.

If you have questions, please email me directly at garoberts@earthlink.net

Greg

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For rosewood veneer sheets, check out Tapeease.

It is my understanding that rosewood is one of the oily woods, like teak, which is why, generally, a poly or lacquer coating is discouraged. However, the thickness of the actual rosewood part of this veneer sheet is so thin, that there is virtually no oil in it to bother. The concern is that the oil will want to come out of the wood as it ages and disrupt the bond between the poly and the wood. Since there's almost no wood, there's almost no oil.

It would be totally different if this were full-thickness unbacked raw rosewood veneer.

But I have had great luck with danish oil, and maybe that would be a better finish for these. I will ponder the idea.

Suggestions are always welcome and appreciated.

Greg

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Greg,

You can use me as a reference anytime!

The zebrawood heresy cabinets just arrived at my house. Too bad I'm at work. As soon as I get home I'm packing the car for a trip to the eastern shore to first take my son back to school then to Tom Longo's house with my fisher X-100-C and sony scd-555es SACD player. I just don't have time to unhook the scott and pack it for the trip. I'm sure his 2003 khorns will like the fisher. My only concern is it's not even broken in yet. It was rebuilt a month ago and probably has 10 hours on it.

I'll take a quick look at the heresys when I get home today to make sure shipping went OK. Then I have to pack a suitcase and hit the road. I'll call you if there are any problems. If you don't hear from me it means all is OK.

- Gary

BTW - I highly recommend someone in the market for k-horns grab these. Greg does amazing work!

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Greg-

I've got a piece of veneer missing from the front of the top section of my lacquered walnut Khorns. It's only about ¼" by 1½". Tapeease's walnut sample looks nothing like my speakers (at least on my monitor). What would you suggest that would match the finish and color of Klipsch's lacquered walnut?

BTW, my s/n's are stamped into the ouside walls of the bass horn.

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bclarke, here's what I'd do.

Contact Greg Engle at Certainly Wood. and send him a picture of your speaker. I would use a piece of unbacked raw Walnut veneer. Greg will be able to find something that at least comes close to matching.

When you get the piece of veneer, cut a piece off and put some linseed oil or danish oil on it. Hold it up to your speaker and see if there is a place somewhere in that veneer that matches. There are a lot of different hues and graining in Walnut, so you are bound to find something that matches. When you do, try to cut a piece where you can turn the grain in the same direction as yours, and maybe even match up any dark lines or even grain pattern. This is an artistic thing, and sometimes it takes a while to find just the right piece. You could play with different colors of oils too to help get the aged look that matches your speaker.

You will have to clean up the area to be repaired with a utility knife, carefully cutting away anything at the edge of the missing piece that would interfere with the new piece matching right up against the existing veneer. You may need to even use a filler where the veneer is missing so that you have a perfectly flat surface for the new patch to sit. Once you know that it will fit tightly, lay flat, and match fairly close, cut any excess off so that it's only sticking over the edge a tiny bit. Then apply Titebond II wood glue to the area to be repaired and the back of the veneer patch piece. Let this dry completely, about 1 to 2 hours.

To apply the patch, use the tip of a household iron on cotton, or high setting, press firmly on the veneer patch and melt the glue to hold the patch in place. Once it is secure all around all the edges, carefully cut back the edges and sand and finish.

I've probably left out some details. If you need more detail just email me.

Greg

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Wrench peddler, only if the cell has the proper corners! 1.gif

Thanks Gary and Paul.

I found the serial numbers stamped on the bass bins, and the other is consecutively matched, 7N995. I don't understand why the sticker on that one wasn't complete. Must have been a Friday afternoon.1.gif Under where the serial number is stamped on one speaker are the letters G H and on the other speaker the letters R D. Anyone know what this is?

Greg

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----------------

On 1/14/2004 9:44:08 PM greg928s4 wrote:

Wrench peddler, only if the cell has the proper corners!
1.gif

Thanks Gary and Paul.

I found the serial numbers stamped on the bass bins, and the other is consecutively matched, 7N995. I don't understand why the sticker on that one wasn't complete. Must have been a Friday afternoon.
1.gif
Under where the serial number is stamped on one speaker are the letters G H and on the other speaker the letters R D. Anyone know what this is?

Greg

----------------

Greg,

The first letter is the builder's first initial, second is the builders apprentice (usually but sometimes it's reversed). The second set are the sander's first initials. I believe that's what Andy said a while back.

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Greg,

I see you are using Weldwood Contact Cement on this project. Did you decide against the Tite Bond II iron on method this time? If so, any particular reason? I am getting ready to veneer a set of Corns using the iron method. I have used the Weldwood in the past to veneer but was looking forward to trying the iron method. Look forward to your thoughts.

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----------------

On 1/14/2004 3:29:27 PM bclarke421 wrote:

Greg-

I've got a piece of veneer missing from the front of the top section of my lacquered walnut Khorns. It's only about ¼" by 1½". Tapeease's walnut sample looks nothing like my speakers (at least on my monitor). What would you suggest that would match the finish and color of Klipsch's lacquered walnut?

BTW, my s/n's are stamped into the ouside walls of the bass horn.

----------------

If you want the "Dutchman" (as we call it) to match, find a place on your Khorn (back, inside, bottom) where you can slice off a little chunk of the veneer (maybe under the crossover?). Think skin graft. This is a sort-of tricky thing to do, but you won't have to guess on what veneer matches. You'll have to take care that the surfaces are flush (your patch and the surrounding veneer), and you'll have to carefully sand the area before repairing the finish. Laquer is pretty easy to blend, especially if you keep everything on that 3/4" surface (don't sand around the corner, mask-off everything else).

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Greg,

I have always used raw, unbacked veneer on all my projects with good results. However, for this project I bought backed(thought it might be nice to not have to tape for a change)flat-cut cherry veneer from Oakwood Veneer. Just wanted to try it. Do you see a downside to the backed veneer?

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Jordan, one thing I see as a drawback is that the backed veneer usually has a very, very thin layer of actual material to finish. This means that there can be very little sanding. Also, when using a dark wood like rosewood, the backing, which is light, sticks out like a sore thumb on edges. What I've done on my other projects is to actually paint the edges with a fine artists paintbrush, even using darker paint to mimic the grain.

After working with both I think the backed veneer leaves a flatter finish, meaning that the depth of the grain doesn't show as much. To me, this means that it doesn't look as much like solid wood and more like shelf paper. However, the finish is very smooth and even.

I'll tape, that's o.k.

Since we're in the Rosewood Khorn thread, I'll mention to those who are wondering about me using backed rosewood veneer on the Khorns, yes I think the raw veneer would be much better, but I would be asking a lot more money had I used raw Brazilian rosewood veneer on the Khorns. I'm using unbacked rosewood on the edges of the Khorns so I don't have to paint any edges.

Greg

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