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Tom Mobley

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On 10/26/2004 10:42:22 PM Tom Mobley wrote:

oops, this is the one I wanted to post.

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Hmmm... I recognize those taillights but just can't put my finger on it... GM 1970 to 72 range?

BTW... mahogany looks great with that outdoor sun.

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'70 Chevelle. I bought it from the original owner in '87, it had 17 tears of registrations in the glovebox, all made out to the same lady at the same address. I've put near 200K on it, it had 120K when I got it. Our (one or the other of us) daily driver from '87 to late '03. I've rebuilt the whole car at least twice, some of it three times. Currently it's in great mechanical shape with fresh engine, transmission and rear axle. Too bad the clear coat is coming off in sheets. Needs paint again. Needs stripped this time. Bummer deal, man. They want $5K to even talk about it, the car is worth about $8K. Thinking about letting it go.

I keep hearing talk about this thing called a "car payment." Sounds like a loser to me. :) I think I had one back in '79 or so, can't really remember. :) :)

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On 10/27/2004 12:52:44 AM Tom Mobley wrote:

I keep hearing talk about this thing called a "car payment." Sounds like a loser to me.
:)
I think I had one back in '79 or so, can't really remember.
:)
:)

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Isn't a car payment... the thing you give the other fellow before you drive off in his car? 2.gif

A little off topic, but there seems to quite a few classic car guys into classic speakers too.

It's a great car and would be sin to get rid of now that you know it inside and out and it's running smoothly. When was the last time you had it painted? I'm sure once you divide it up... it works out to peanuts each year.

I have a 1963 Beaumont Convertible (it's a Canadian version of the 1963 Nova) that I use as a summer driver... but the season is very short. You Arizona guys are spoiled... with so many nice rust free classics... and a never ending summer.

Want to trade it for a pair of Heresys?... 3.gif

Rob

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this is my favorite useless piece of scrap. It's a piece of oak plywood left over form the LaScalas project. I use it for a sanding board and veneer pressing tool. It's a tip I picked up from reading Greg's (928s4) stuff. After ironing down a iron-widths-worth, I use the stick to rub over the still-hot veneer, encouraging the bond. I hit it pretty hard, especially on the edges. The end of the stick is straight, rounded over a little and smooth. Then it is instantly converted to a sanding block, I just wrap paper around it and go to town. Works for me, I've got various factory made sanding blocks but end up going back to this every time.

If you look you can see the outline of the piece of plywood underneath.

veneerpressingboard.jpg

post-9215-13819257550072_thumb.jpg

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Tom, I have a question too! Did you have any problems seaming the veneer together w/ the iron on method? I've read that the heat of the iron often dries the veneer out enough to where the seams separate. I plan on using veneer on my project as well, and don't want to screw it up! Using a vacuum bag isn't really an option either.

Thanks!!

Rockets

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Yes, I've had some issues around that. It's pretty tough keeping the seams together. It inconsistant for me, sometimes it's fine, other times I get a little gap. I'm actually thinking of using contact cement on the top of mine to try to avoid that. I ran across a tip about using small wooden dowels to ease the applying of the veneer. Put several across the wood, lay the veneer on the dowels, locate it and pull them out one at a time.

There's a nice article or two on the net about making your own vacuum bag setup. I was an auto mechanic for many years and have a A/C vacuum pump, so I'll probably try the DIY vacuum bag technique before it's all over.

DIY vacuum bag page.

I like the iron-on deal because the glue bond is very good, I don't worry about it delaminating 5 or 10 years from now.

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LOL!! That's the same guy that told me about the shrinkage problem with the joints! I had emailed him about his iron on glue and veneer tape.

Were you joining small pieces or wide ones? I don't know if it'd make a difference, but I'm curious. Someone suggested to me to overlap the pieces ever so slightly and then take a small veneer plane and cut off the piece that was standing proud after ironing. I guess you'd have to start by ironing the section furthest away fron the edge, hoping the shrinkage would pull the overlap inline, and reduce the trimming needed. I don't know if that would work or not.

This is a dumb question, but since the veneer shrinks due to all the water being dried out of it, couldn't you reconstitute it by dampening it with water??

I'm sure the vacuum would work, but that's way to big of an investment for me for a one time event. Once I'm done...I doubt I'd ever use it again.

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm trying to learn from your mistakes!

Thanks

TC

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  • 2 weeks later...

well, been awhile. I got most of the rest of the pieces finished, installed the upper riser, the bottom plate of the HF section, got the upper sides done with glue/screw blocks inside and painted flat black, got the top finished and flat blacked inside. Here's a series of pics. This cheapie camera has the harshest flash I've ever seen. The finish is still pure high gloss, so some of the pics look funny, like there's a texture or something. There isn't. :) I trimmed out some of the pieces with flat black too. I just don't want raw wood drawing moisture, not that we have any here in Phoenix.

{EDIT} that white dot is the hole for the wire to the bass driver.

bassbinblknoriser.jpg

post-9215-13819257552982_thumb.jpg

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