hammertop Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Ok! Being liisted as a "newbie" I've had my Corns for 29+ years young (WO's) and just now thinking about re-oiling. Wow, the past forums seem to be refinish or total do over. As in life we all get banged around somewhat, a nick here, scratch there, inevitable. General touch up is like way important to me! The question: I have always used a good grade paste wax. Just how far do I have to go before re-BLO (boiled linseed oil)? The plan: Latex putty the small ouches, triple 000 steel them, use a low grade stripper, then start the linseed process. All the years I've been waxing, will the oil (in auto body terms) cause and or create fisheyes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiob Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Dont mess with BLO, it is simply out dated, smelly, slow drying, garbage that will stain if you set anything on your speakers. If you want a product to wipe on wipe off then look into tounge oil from minwax or old masters, apply 3-4 coats with a 0000 steel wool sanding before the last coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 RadioB is in the minority here, and in the minority of almost all professional woodworking craftsmen. BLO is still one of the best finishes/treatments you can use on your Corns. Watco and others are variations on a theme, containing various amounts of linseed oil and other ingredients. Tung oil doesn't penetrate as much, and makes a harder finish than BLO. But scratches also show up more. BLO penetrates the wood and provides more long term protection and keeps the wood from drying out. It doesn't require a total redo of your Corns to clean them up. Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwinr Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 My Klipschorns are oiled walnut. I thought about refinishing them with one of those tung oil type finishes. But I was told the same thing, boiled linseed oil or a similar commercial variation - lasts longer and less sceptible to scratches etc. Also more importantly, easier to apply for non experts like myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Almost all the true furniture craftsmen around today still predominantly use BLO to obtain a classic oil finish. It is NOT "outdated garbage"...it is a classic finish that has withstood the test of time for centuries. What you use is up to you, but for an oiled finish, BLO is hard to beat in the long run. It is inexpensive and easy to apply properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwinr Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Hey, HDBRbuilder! You're still here. Thank God! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiob Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Outdated garbage! Show me the MSDS Sheet on BLO, and Ill explain why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZAKO Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Boiled linseed oil is still the preferred finish for high quality patina . I use Watco danish oil. On both counts dont let oil set for more than 10 minutes on surface . Then wipe dry to a smooth sheen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwardre Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Watco here as well.....I could be wrong, but it seems a bit more 'refined' than straight BLO....not so 'mucky'? And remember, steel anything on speakers should be a last resort only. Those little hairs are insidious......they WILL find their way to your VC....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben. Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 ---------------- On 8/24/2004 8:57:49 AM radiob wrote: Outdated garbage! Show me the MSDS Sheet on BLO, and Ill explain why.---------------- Whoops-posted wrong one before. Here you go. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Material Safety Data Sheet SECTION I - Material Identity SECTION II - Manufacturer's Information SECTION III - Physical/Chemical Characteristics SECTION IV - Fire and Explosion Hazard Data SECTION V - Reactivity Data SECTION VI - Health Hazard Data SECTION VII - Precautions for Safe Handling and Use SECTION VIII - Control Measures SECTION IX - Label Data SECTION X - Transportation Data SECTION XI - Site Specific/Reporting Information SECTION XII - Ingredients/Identity Information SECTION I - Material Identity Item Name Part Number/Trade Name BOILED LINSEED OIL National Stock Number 8010001523245 CAGE Code 0A9L8 Part Number Indicator A MSDS Number 190008 HAZ Code B SECTION II - Manufacturer's Information Manufacturer Name HOC INDUSTRIES INC (HOME OIL) P.O. Box 2609 Street 3511 <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />N OHIO City WICHITA State KS Country US Zip Code 67201-2609 Emergency Phone 800-424-6300 CHEMTREC Information Phone 316-838-4663 MSDS Preparer's Information Date MSDS Prepared/Revised 10SEP97 Active Indicator Y Alternate Vendors SECTION III - Physical/Chemical Characteristics NRC License Number NR Net Propellant Weight (Ammo) NR Appearance/Odor CLEAR LIQUID, LOW ODOR Boiling Point NR Melting Point NR Vapor Pressure NR Vapor Density NR Specific Gravity 0.93 Decomposition Temperature NR Evaporation Rate NR Solubility in Water NEGLIGIBLE Percent Volatiles by Volume 0 Chemical pH NA Corrosion Rate NR Container Pressure Code 1 Temperature Code 4 Product State Code L SECTION IV - Fire and Explosion Hazard Data Flash Point 250 Flash Point Method TCC Lower Explosion Limit NR Upper Explosion Limit NR Extinguishing Media WATER, CARBON DIOXIDE, AND POSSIBLY ACROLEIN Special Fire Fighting Procedures EVACUATE AREA OF ALL UNNECESSARY PERSONNEL. SHUT OFF SOURCE, IF POSSIBLE. WATER FOG OR SPRAY SHOULD BE USED TO KEEP FIRE-EXPOSED FIRES. EVACUATE AREA OF ALL UNNECESSARY PERSONNEL. SHUT OFF SOURCE IR POSSIBLE. WATER FOG OR SPRAY SHOULD BE USED TO KEEP FIRE EXPOSED CONTAINERS AND EQUIPMENT COOL. DO NOT SPRAY WATER DIRECTLY ON FIRE. PRODUCT WILL FLOAT AND COULD BE REIGNITED ON SURFACE OF WATER. FIRE FIGHTERS SHOULD WEAR SCBA TO PREVENT INHALATION OF SMOKE OR VAPORS Unusual Fire/Explosion Hazards BOILED LINSEED OIL WILL OXIDIZE AND CAN CAUSE SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION. AVOID SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION OF CONTAMINATED RAGS OR OTHER IGNITIBLE ABSORBENT MATERIAL BY IMMERSING IN WATER IMMEDIATELY SECTION V - Reactivity Data Stability YES Stability Conditions to Avoid NR Materials to Avoid NR Hazardous Decomposition Products NR Hazardous Polymerization NO Polymerization Conditions to Avoid DOES NOT OCCUR SECTION VI - Health Hazard Data Route of Entry: Skin YES Route of Entry: Ingestion YES Route of Entry: Inhalation YES Health Hazards - Acute and Chronic AVOID PROLONGED OR WIDESPREAD SKIN CONTACT. MAY CAUSE A PERSISTENT IRRITATION OR DERMITITIS. AVOID PROLONGED REPEATED INHAL OF HEATED VAPORS OR SPRAY MISTS MAY IRRITATE STOMACH AND INTESTINES. IF SWALLOWED MAY BE ASPIRATED INTO LUNGS RESULTING IN CHEMICAL PNEUMONITIS Carcinogenity: NTP NR Carcinogenity: IARC NR Carcinogenity: OSHA NR Explanation of Carcinogenity NONE Symptoms of Overexposure SAME AS ABOVE Medical Cond. Aggrevated by Exposure NR Emergency/First Aid Procedures MOVE TO FRESH AIR. APPLY ARTIFICAL RESPIRATION IF NECESSARY. CALL PHYSICAN IMMEDIATELY. WASH WITH MILD SOAP / WATER. WASH WITH WATER FOR 5-10 MINUTES. IF EYE IRRITAITON PERSISTS, GET IMMEDIATE MEDICAL ATTENTION SECTION VII - Precautions for Safe Handling and Use Steps if Material Released/Spilled ELIMINATE ALL IGNITION SOURCES INCLUDING INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINES AND POWER TOOLS. VENTILATE AREA. AVOID BREATHING VAPOR. USE SUPPLIED AIR MASK FOR LARGE SPILLS OR IN CONFINED AREA. CONTAIN SPILL. REMOVE WITH INERT ABSORBENT. AVOID CONTACT WITH EYES. AVOID ALLOWING PRODUCT FROM ENTERING STREAMS OR SEWERS Neutralizing Agent NR Waste Disposal Method INCINERATE OR PLACE RCRA PERMITTED WASTE MANAGEMENT FACILITY OBSERVING LOCAL, STATE AND FEDERAL Handling and Storage Precautions TRANSPORT, HANDLE AND STORE IN ACCORDANCE WITH 29 CFR (1910.106) AND APPLICABLE DOT REGULATIONS. GROUND AND ELECTRICALLY INTERCONNECT CONTAINERS FOR TRANSFER Other Precautions NR SECTION VIII - Control Measures Respiratory Protection MAY BE REQUIRED IF MATERIAL IS USED IN POORLY VENTILATED AREAS OR IF MATERIAL IS SPRAYED OR HEATED Ventilation GENERAL RECOMMENDED. LOCAL VENTILATION MAY BE REQUIRED IF MATERIAL IS SPRAYED OR HEATED Protective Gloves NEOPRENE RUBBER GLOVES Eye Protection CHEM TYPE GOGGLES Other Protective Equipment EYE WASH STATIONS Work Hygenic Practices WASH HANDS PRIOR TO EATING OR SMOKING Supplemental Health/Safety Data NR SECTION IX - Label Data Protect Eye YES Protect Skin YES Protect Respiratory YES Chronic Indicator NO Contact Code SLIGHT Fire Code UNKNOWN Health Code UNKNOWN React Code UNKNOWN Specific Hazard and Precaution NO TARGET ORGANS LISTED FOR CHRONIC EXPOSURES SECTION X - Transportation Data Container Quantity 1 Unit of Measure GL SECTION XI - Site Specific/Reporting Information Volatile Organic Compounds (P/G) 0 Volatile Organic Compounds (G/L) 0 SECTION XII - Ingredients/Identity Information Ingredient # 01 Ingredient Name BOILED LINSEED OIL Proprietary NO Percent 100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwillwalk Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 klipsch has said watco never used it becuse a long time ago someone posted that they use scotts liquid gold.so bought it and use it all the time & it makes my walnut shine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilbert Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 I'm with Marvel, Bclark and especially HDBRbuilder, ....thank you Bclark for the spec sheet. Marvel obviously knows his tung oil also, as I have read quite a bit about it when I was refinishing some furniture, many moons ago. Tung oil does provide a durable ware surface, very hard in fact. I've used it on many different tables tops and book shelves. But I still would like to hear radiob's reason(s) for disagreement. I ask this question in my previous post regarding what a pain in arse it was refinishing Khorns, and radiob did not provide the answer he said he would, but instead insulted me. Bclark was kind enough to get the literature you requested, now do the curtious thing and explain why you have such a negative opinion on BLO. Please let me know, I want to hear your opinion, wrong or right, doesn't matter. I want to hear your (or possibly someone elses) logic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben. Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 ---------------- On 8/24/2004 5:36:11 AM radiob wrote: Dont mess with BLO, it is simply out dated, smelly, slow drying, garbage that will stain if you set anything on your speakers. If you want a product to wipe on wipe off then look into tounge oil from minwax or old masters, apply 3-4 coats with a 0000 steel wool sanding before the last coat. ---------------- You'd think a Master Furniture Refinisher, PhD. would read the directions on the bottle of Tung Oil and steel wool after each coat has dried. You'd think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2BHome Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 My 2 cents: As I remember one HDBRs past posts, he said the factory used BLO with some walnut stain added to it. This makes them look a little darker than BLO alone. I believe this to be very accurate since I own a CWL (lacquer) Cornwall pair and a CWO (oil) pair. On the pair with the Lacquer finish the walnut is definitely lighter. The point is, if you strip/sand (which I endorse ONLY if you know what you are doing) your speakers and then use a clear poly formulation they will come out lighter than what they were with a factory BLO finish. This is not wrong if that is what you wanted, you just need to know how to accomplish what you want Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiob Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Ok, Now read the msds sheet, you have proved why not to use BLO. If you ever use tounge oil, you would find out that it takes 2-3 coats over virgin wood before there is enough mil to steel wool before your final gloss coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 From a previous post: In the northern US, the low humidity of cold winters dries out wood, ruining the sheen and eventually cracking it. Old steam and hot water radiators contribute to the problem, sweating out what little moisture there is in the air with condensation. Most commonly recommended is a quarterly rubdown with furniture oil to nourish the wood; NOT furniture polish to merely dust it. In the southern US, high temperatures and high humidity rate - both over 90, Fahrenheit and percent - combine to create scalding heat indexes over 100. Sensitive wood designs are protected with an annual rubdown of lemon or tung furniture oil. I have been using Old English lemon oil for years, but the bottle ran low. I also used a little of Formbys Lemon Oil, which seems like Old English. I oiled my classic Klipsch corner Khorns with Formbys Tung Oil and was surprised at the difference! Tung oil is a golden brown oil extracted from seeds of tung trees and used as a drying agent in varnishes, paints and waterproofing. It is also called Chinawood oil. Tung oil makes a durable matte finish. Brush or wipe tung oil into the wood in thin coats. The Tung oil is thicker than lemon oil. It is an amber blend of molasses and old fashioned syrup. Stickier than syrup too, it doesnt simply rinse off, but needs soap. It smells like dark nut oils blended with a hint of turpentine, paint thinner, varnish or something. It coats the wood and fills in the scratches. It is quite nice for old horns. It gives the walnut a darker, glossier, warmer appeal. Looks beautiful, but goes on rich and dark. Tung Oil takes a day to dry, especially when applied so thickly that it fills the scratches. It is classed as a drying oil along with linseed, poppy seed, safflower seed, walnut, soybean, oiticica and a few other oils. Until this century, China was the main source for the oil. It comes from the seed of Aleurites fordii and Aleurites montana, deciduous trees susceptible to frost damage. This vulnerability restricts tung trees to China and South America. It is said to have been introduced to the West by Marco Polo. Recently, tung oil gained favor over linseed oil for furniture finishing because dries faster and does not darken as much with age. Tung oil is more durable than lacquer and is impervious to water stains. As mentioned before, minor scratches are easily repaired. It's readily available and an ideal finish for butch block tops in kitchens, as well as wooden salad bowls and other wooden food preparation surfaces. Furniture in areas of high use (or abuse) could also benefit from a tung oil finish. Tung oils are usually applied in a wipe-on wipe-off method with a short drying time in between. After the wipe off and when the coat has dried completely, # 0000 steel wool removes small surface irregularities, and the oiling process is repeated. Depending on the look, you'll apply anywhere from 3 to 6 coats in this manner. I only applied one coat and it looks fine to me. However, it does seem to seal the wood more than simple Lemon Oil furniture polish. I wont try the BLO over the Tung Oil of course. IF I had to do it over again, I would try the BLO first. Although marketed for teak furniture, I will save the lighter Lemon Oil for my office. The Lemon Oil should also be fine for the black wood entertainment center or modern black loudspeakers. Posted: 5/31/2004 HDBRbuilder said: Once you use tung oil, you no longer will use Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO), because tung oil is a finish in and of itself. BLO is what is used on the factory oil finishes to replenish the wood. There is a big difference in tung oil and what is used for the factory oil finishes. Tung oil is more akin to a varnish type of finish, and once applied it is not supposed to be re-oiled at all. Tung oil is actually supposed to be applied to clean surfaces with no more than a stain already applied to them. A word to the wise here: There is a possibility of tung oil finishes appearing to adhere well initially to a previously applied BLO-based finish, but over time the tung oil finish MAY loosen from the surface as the BLO weeps out of the wood grain...the same goes for applications of lacquers or urethanes and such to previously-applied hand-rubbed oil finishes using BLO as the base. In order to ensure tung oil finish adherence to surfaces with previously-applied-BLO based finishes, it is WISE to thoroughly clean the BLO finish from the wood using acetone or something of that nature, BEFORE using the tung oil finish. Remember, just because something is labeled an "OIL" finish does NOT mean it is completely compatible with other types of oil finishes previously used on wood surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben. Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 ---------------- On 8/24/2004 7:42:16 PM radiob wrote: Ok, Now read the msds sheet, you have proved why not to use BLO. If you ever use tounge oil, you would find out that it takes 2-3 coats over virgin wood before there is enough mil to steel wool before your final gloss coat.---------------- You are either incredibly lazy or full of it. I remain uncertain which; but it is clear that you are, in the words of the immortal Tom Brennan, a man without a stomach. It's spelled Tung, and please enlighten we poor mistaken ingorami exactly why Boiled Linseed Oil is the devil's liquor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilbert Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 bclark, the guy obviously doesn't know his thumb from his dick. He request specific literature and then craps out. Colin: I have 4 pair of heritage in WO. 2 from the 60's and 2 from the 80's. In each case/decade, I have one pair that is distinctly lighter than the other. Also, tung oil is not impervious to water stains. I know from experience. I is highly resistant, but not impervious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2BHome Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 ---------------- On 8/24/2004 7:48:50 PM bclarke421 wrote: ...It's spelled Tung, and please enlighten we poor mistaken ingorami exactly why Boiled Linseed Oil is the devil's liquor. ---------------- Resist....Resist....Resist...Resist!!! I just can't. I don't care about the argument. But the word is spelt "ignorami" Heat of the argument I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwinr Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Thanks, Colin for a great post. Very interesting reading. Edwin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.