ricktate Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 My son has 1988 crx and it has spark in the start position but no spark in the run position.I checked the ign. switch and it feeds power to fuse block.I checked main relay and all fuses so any ideas would be helpfull.Thanks Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 My son has 1988 crx and it has spark in the start position but no spark in the run position.I checked the ign. switch and it feeds power to fuse block.I checked main relay and all fuses so any ideas would be helpfull.Thanks Rick Ouch! Could be a computer problem. I take it it cranks over with spark and catches then dies due to no spark? Make sure fuel and air are ok before focusing on spark. Check all grounds too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted July 3, 2006 Author Share Posted July 3, 2006 Yea it is wierd i can make it run with starter engaged but as soon as you let go of key no spark....i had timming light hooked to it so i know what is going on i just cant figure out why.Also there are no dash lights at all in run position like there should be so thats why i thought it was a relay and checked the main relay.Thanks again for any help Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 found this with a quick search, maybe some help here: http://www.jonko.com/auto_repair/honda/honda_auto_repair.html Hope it helps, no dash (warning?) lights sounds more like a computer issue to me, but don't take my word for it, could still be something simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 Spray some starting fluid in the throttle body as its being started. If the car still runs past what it's been doing lately then it's a fuel problem. If it acts the same with the same problem its an electrical problem. See if it has an ignitor on this model. It would be mounted on the bottom of the distributor if there is one. Does the tach still work?? If not or if it goes crazy then that's a sign of the ignitor going south (about $70). But I do second the key switch idea...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 Gee, we usually get questions about speakers. We have to make guesses from far away. I think you have a basic electrical probem which the starter circuit is solving though a "sneak circuit". This may be stating the obvious. I'd take a close look at battery connections to the fuse block, to the starter, and to chassis ground. Is there is heavy wire of the positive which goes to the starter. See where the negative lead off the battery goes to. Also. A basic trouble shooting question is: Did anything happen or change just before this problem developed? Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbuckster Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 If it's a good car; take it to a garage and let a Pro fix it............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 Sounds like an ignition switch problem. Makes contact in start position, no contact in run. The oil light is not controlled by the computer and should light independently of the check engine, ABS lights or any other computer controlled light until there is sufficient oil pressure. Edit: Does anyone have access to AllData to check if there is a seperate fuse for the run position? I sold my garage when I retired. Edit2: On an old GM car, I would go first to the starter selenoid. Again the diagram is needed to see if the "run" system is routed throuh it on that Honda. Edit3: AllData was the best $185 a month I ever spent while in business. Prior to it's introduction I had a library of Chilton manuals but they did not contain the wiring diagrams. AllData has them all. AutoZone now owns AllData. They sell disks for individual makes and models of cars reasonably. Invaluable for any DIYer. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted July 4, 2006 Author Share Posted July 4, 2006 Thanks for the help guys,,,and yes it seems to sneak through the startig circut ok and i did check all wires i could find.Ignition switch tested good...still no dash lights at all in run position it was running fine up to this point you would think something this obvious would be easy to figure out.Sorry for off topic in the forum but i thought more brain power would be good.Its my sons only car he is using mine so i was wanting to fix it ,may have to take it to shop.Thanks again Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyholiday Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 See if it has an ignitor on this model. It would be mounted on the bottom of the distributor if there is one. Does the tach still work?? If not or if it goes crazy then that's a sign of the ignitor going south (about $70)....BINGO an when the starter circuit is engaged every thing is shorted out, while the circuit is engaged, to turn the starter over,direct connect to the starter, this is when the demand on the battery is the most Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 This sounds like the old "bad ballast resistor" problem we once saw pretty often in old cars. I have no idea if the Honda uses such a circuit. "In most 12 volt systems, a resistor is connected in series with the primary circuit of the ignition coil. During the cranking period, the resistor is cut out of the circuit so that full voltage is applied to the coil. This insures a strong spark during cranking, and quicker starting is provided. The starting circuit is designed so that as long as the starter motor is in use, full battery voltage is applied to the coil. When the starter is not cranking, the resistance wire is cut into the circuit to reduce the voltage applied to the coil. If the engine starts when the ignition switch is turned on, but stops when the switch is released to the run position, it can indicate that a resistor is bad and should be replaced." Bob Crites Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 I agree with Bob it could be the coil. However the old ballast resistors are long gone as far as I know. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted July 4, 2006 Author Share Posted July 4, 2006 Ok guys i got it going,,,,i cooled off and went back out today and went through all the checks again,,,,ignition switch tested bad today,,,not sure why i thought it was ok before but good thing to recheck everything again just to make sure in everything you do i guess.I rigged a jumper wire on switch its going and i got my truck back and everything is cool now.Thanks for your help ,i guess Amy can delete thie post now . Dont overlook the obvious in everything huh...same for speakers as cars i guess.Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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