Cal Blacksmith Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 THANK YOU BOB! Just checking a few things, the .16mh choke for the tweeter is an air core, right? The 3507 is the same auto former that is in the old xover, right? What should I expect as a difference is sound, I can follow schematics but I really don't understand the electronics behind them. I am an industrial electrician by schooling and there are not a lot of small parts in a buildings wiring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 The 0.16 mH is an air core. The two 3 mH are ferrite core. The 3507 autotransformer can be reused as can all the inductors on a rebuild. Bob Crites Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Here's one from a N Cornwall, that is 1975. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 These are from T's which are 1979, K33E, still square magnet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Here's from my B's 1963 with the Jensen woofer K33J and K55K mid driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Michael....It appears you have your hands full of a few CW's. Have you compared the Cornwall vs Cornwall II? Curiuos if there is much of a difference in sound. Never had a CW II in here. I have 63, 75, 77, 79. CW's, the 63's are the vertical types. All of the 70's have B crossovers and all are the square magnet K33 P or E, K55V. Klipsch at one point sent me a chart (#830829) saying that an improvement could be gained by changing to the K52K or H and the K77M with the B3 network. They stated that B2 networks should not be updated at all, and that going from B to B3 would necessitate changing to the K52 squawker. Therefore it looks like the company postion is that unless I change squawker drivers, then to NOT upgrade crossover design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boom3 Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Bob...Thanks for the comments regarding the crossovers. Is the Cornwall II slightly inferior as compared to the Cornwall? Did Klipsch reduce their focus on this version of the Cornwall and would it be considered 2nd rate again compared to the original Cornwall? I have 4 86 CW IIs...I have heard several CW Is over the years. I think the tweeters (K79) are markedly better than the K77s...the midrange (K57) is comparable to the K55 series...the CWIIs as Bob noted are MDF cabs...more rigid. Also, and this diff is minor in the overall, the K601s are plastic vice metal horns...no gooey kid stuff required to damp them. Another small point is that the woofer and horns are all front-mounted. The CW II MDF cabs also have a front-to-back brace between the woofer and mid horn that stiffens the cabinet. The CW II backs are permanently (sp?) mounted on, so any surgery is done by removing the woofer. When I rebuild my crossovers I'll do them all at once with those nice GE PIO caps Bob sells...but I am pretty busy with other things (yes, non-audio) so that is not a hi pri as we say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 " Another small point is that the woofer and horns are all front-mounted. " Although a lot of folks say this does not matter, I think it results in a stronger cab, since the back can now be integrated into the rest of the cab using bracing, grooves or both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 good point, I'd never thought of the cabinet construction quite that way. Just that the front mounting had to be somewhat better due to taking away the diffraction effects on the horns. M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 When I play my cornwalls loud the only part of the cabinet that vibrates excessively is the back. So, maybe there's some merit to a sealed and reinforced back. Don't know. I always thought it was just a cost reduction to have the sealed cabinet and drivers mounted from the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Klipsch has always been all about manufacturing efficiency and cost reduction. Just look at the 4 wood screws holding most K33's in place. Or the sad caps used in the CWII. M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmsummer Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 When I play my cornwalls loud the only part of the cabinet that vibrates excessively is the back. So, maybe there's some merit to a sealed and reinforced back. Don't know. A bead of rope caulk will seal that back panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 I don't think they're talking about the air seal quite so much as the structural integrity of the cabinet. Rabbeting (if this is done) , glueing and screwing that back in permanently would add significant strength to the box, don't you think? M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Michael, If you did that to a Cornwall I, you might want to think about how to get a driver out if you ever needed to do that. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaiser SET say Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 So Bob, is that akin to painting oneself into a corner so to speak[] I would assume anyone getting a X-over upgrade rebuild for CWII's gets a super surprise when they fire them back up[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 I happen to be rebuilding a pair of the Cornwall II crossovers today, so will post a before and after picture to show how I like to handle them. Bob Crites before the rebuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 And after the rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 Also, for you crossover builders, I have updated the C2 schematic with a very important value you may need to know. Bob Crites Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverSport Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 beauties Bob...and always so helpful to the DIY'er...wish I could but I bet you're glad some of us can't...[] Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 Michael, If you did that to a Cornwall I, you might want to think about how to get a driver out if you ever needed to do that. Bob Good one Bob, I think we were just discussing the sturctural integrity of the two cabinet designs. It would be pretty foolish to nail that sucker on, wouldn't it? [] M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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