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AlK universal crossover too shrill; Klipsch AL-3 crossover too nasal. Now what?


redwood forest

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Dean - Jensen caps? Silver looking? I have those in the networks you made for Smilin's Cornwalls that I now have. Those things sound kickass (using one as a center right now)! Course, we were listening to 1984-ish Corns with original x-overs and the thought "uh, maybe these sound better than the khorns?" flopped into my mind more than once. (yipes). They don't sound nearly as good as the corns with your x-overs, but dang. Then I listened to Chorus II floating in the middle of the room and was focusing what that horn brought to the table and REALLY liked it. But there's something fuzzy or grainy? about it. Was thinking there's something there that I want, but just in a bigger, higher quality version. Then I think of the Jubilee horn and Al's horn which don't appear to have the tiny throat look and without looking it up - think they are a bigger/higher quality version of the tractrix/tractix? that's on the Chorus II? Basically?

It's a volume issue with these.

Dean - IDK - You're the expert. I still think it would be cool if crossovers allowed for a quick snap in/snap out connection to swap caps. Would be curious as to what one would expect with V-caps, Jensens, or the white ones I have. Or maybe the difference would be so slight that it's imperceivable. IDK

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I have the raw Khorns from thirty years ago. The whole cabinet is hidden behind giant framed grill cloth fronts. Les

Redwood - I'd sure like to see a pic of that if possible. Sounds interesting. Also, may I ask how old those AA's are that sound muffled to you? I'm looking forward to hearing your Trachorn review. I have this same 'shrillness' issue and the more I listen to my other Klipsch vintage types, the more I think I just plain don't like that mid-horn.

Here are the pictures that you requested. One shows the false corner moved outward to face the sweetspot. The false corner is made of two layers of high density particle board glued together to avoid resonance. On the bottom is the raw bass enclosure. The squawker and tweeter are sitting on the top shelf. Originally there was a top rack for the enclosure that positioned the tweeter on top of the squawker as in the standard Khorn, but that was dismantled long ago. In the past I experimented by positioning the horns at different directions and locations. On top of that is a TacT 13Hz subwoofer that normally goes for $4,000, but I got it for $700 because it was raw. The second picture shows the view with everything behind an oak framed grill cloth front cover. I hope these pictures show up. I haven't had much luck lately.

post-9915-1381932143362_thumb.jpg

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Does your squawker have a problem with ringing...just sitting on the shelf like that? Does the sub vibrate the horns and cause them to move on the shelf?

These shelves are solid as a rock. Nothing resonates at all. The squawker is sitting on ASC gummy sound absorbing material. I just got the tweeter so I haven't had a chance to put the goop under that yet. Even the walls and ceiling are treated with this stuff. Its great being able to hit a wall and hear a thump instead of a boom.

Les

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Your pics show the vision in my head for when the house is remodeled but I figured it wouldn't work. I was thinking of the same thing (inset khorns), but using the khorns as is and not just their guts. I figured they needed more of a wall that extended a bit. Course now people are sealing the backs and saying that's fine so IDK. But darned interesting look there you have! So if you hit the horn with a screwdriver or knuckles - the horn doesn't ring to you? Since they aren't fully mounted on something? Cuz so many damp the horns despite being properly mounted due to this ring. (God! I keep forgetting to do that)

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I figured they needed more of a wall that extended a bit. Course now people are sealing the backs and saying that's fine so IDK. But darned interesting look there you have! So if you hit the horn with a screwdriver or knuckles - the horn doesn't ring to you? Since they aren't fully mounted on something? Cuz so many damp the horns despite being properly mounted due to this ring. (God! I keep forgetting to do that)

Meagain, Yes, if I hit them, they will ring which is why I'm switching to Al's wooden trachorns. Klipsch came up with their cheap version of this using fiberglass I think. But wood is the answer for stopping the ring.

I checked with the Klipsch techs about the length of the baffle. They said that you can get very close to the maximun bass effect if the baffle extends from the rear to the very front of the speaker which this does. The biggest difference is realized when all holes and gaps are sealed between the enclosure and the walls, and shelf.. I use pipe insulation for that.

Les

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Les,

That horn K-400 horn needs to be mounted on a baffle to "complete" the horn and to prevent ringing according to Paul Klipsch.

Bob Crites

Thanks Bob. Al just sent me an email saying that my wooden Trachorns have arrived so I can cross the bay and pick them up tomorrow in Salisbury. I don't have to worry about the wood horns ringing...or do I? Do I need to get the frames for locking the squawker and tweeter together?

Les

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No, the wood horns won't add any artifacts to the sound, and you don't need the baffle for full performance like the K-400.

Lisa, I've just been in contact with Josh Nichols who has one of my early Jensen Type AA builds. He's willing to ship them to you so you can try them out in your Klipschorns. I'm covering the shipping over to you, so just shoot me an email with your shipping address and we'll get them out to you.

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Sorry, Meagain, but I lost track of this thread, Al's Trachorns are as good as he said they were. The imaging is unbelievable. I can point precisely to every instrument in the orchestra. Plus, I don't miss the ringing of the old horn at all. In my opinion Klipsch should replace all of it's midrange horns in the Heritage Series now with the "Trachorns". There is no excuse to continue using 60 year old technology when this much better "mouse trap" is available. I know it will be painful for Klipsch Inc. to acknowledge that Al's wooden horn is better than their metal or plastic horns, but that's just the way it is.

I know that Klipsch doesn't want to hear that the ALK Universal Crossover is much better than the K-horn crossover. We all went through that pain last year with Al's sign-off from the forum. I think that what we had was a "pissing" contest.

Al's suggestion of replacing K-horn tweeter with the JBL 2404 tweeter also was correct. The upper range is so much sharper and cleaner although an L-pad is needed to dampen the volume since the 2404 tweeter is much more efficient.

A tech at Klipsch told me that they don't make changes, because K-horn fans want to make their own modifications. Wouldn't it be great if klipsch could add these optional modifications during the original cabinet construction and save us at lot of aggravation trying to make the speakers sound the best they can possibly sound. In my very humble opinion, all of these modifications improve the sound of the K-horns by at least 100%.

Unfortunately, at lot of people that buy the K-horns have no idea that this forum exists and don't know how much better their speakers can sound. The least Klipsch could do is inform it's customer at the time of purchase the possible modifications available instead of having them wade through tons of material on the forum for years as many of us have done. Not everyone that buys expensive stereo equipment like us thinks of this journey as fun.

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