WMcD Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Attached is the Klipsch Instruction Manual. It gives the official word on some issues like placement of drones away from walls, wire, and care of wood. This actually comes from Mike B. He included it in the sale of his Belle to me. I picked up the speaker last Saturday in Tennessee. OT it was very nice to meet Mike. A fine fellow. He showed off his Jubilees. Unfortuately there was not nearly enough time to visit. I had to hit the road to get back to Chicago. Gil gilpubs Klipsch Instruction Manual c.1996.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Greatly appreciated!! a very welcome addition, at least, to my collection of these Klipsch manuals over the years. Thanks again for posting this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauln Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Nice, had not seen that one - the wiring instructions seem peculiar - connect the neg at both ends of the wire first, then the pos... apart from going a little overboard on preventing a crossed connection I don't see the electrical logic of this. Connecting both wires at one end of the speaker or amp first before doing the neg at the other end should electrically the same as the instruction and the pos connected for a little while at only one end should be inconsequential - unless there is a reason to make sure the neg is connected first? Anyone know about this? Is it to prevent someone connecting one end of the wire and having a problem because the other end's bare wires conntact each other? Can this really matter while the amp is powered off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seti Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Cool thanks for posting the manual. Did you get to hear the Jubes at all? : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Nice, had not seen that one - the wiring instructions seem peculiar - connect the neg at both ends of the wire first, then the pos... apart from going a little overboard on preventing a crossed connection I don't see the electrical logic of this. Connecting both wires at one end of the speaker or amp first before doing the neg at the other end should electrically the same as the instruction and the pos connected for a little while at only one end should be inconsequential - unless there is a reason to make sure the neg is connected first? Anyone know about this? Is it to prevent someone connecting one end of the wire and having a problem because the other end's bare wires conntact each other? Can this really matter while the amp is powered off? Interesting. Likely just a "carved in stone", essentially foolproof method (if the buyer read and followed the instructions). Could be a "Lowest common denominator" issue? There's alot of folks out there these days who probably "forget" (in a hurry..., my new speakers..., can't wait!!!) and connect stuff with the power on..... Back in the day.... it was probably assumed that if you bought a pair of Klipsch, you probably knew well enough to not connect things with the power on. An old 1976 manual I have does not address connecting, only placement and taking care of the finish. My K'horn manuals are the same, more or less, but emphasize the placement and included a complete separate sheet on care of the finish, and a complete separate sheet on applying the rear bass bin corner seal "flaps". Anybody have a 2006-2007 manual to post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauln Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 2005 says to power off and hook'm up correctly... no Neg first at both ends before pos... Does have instructions and illustrations for those that might have trouble getting them out of the box! Heritage%20(english)2005_.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seti Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 I needed to be told not to connect my speakers directly to the AC outlet. The sad thing is that probably made it to the manual because someone did it...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 I needed to be told not to connect my speakers directly to the AC outlet. The sad thing is that probably made it to the manual because someone did it...... I read that and now have a problem.....I thought i was slick by not having to upgrade my caps....I have been plugging my speakers into the wall AC over night to reform the capacitors.....now what do I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Islander Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 I needed to be told not to connect my speakers directly to the AC outlet. The sad thing is that probably made it to the manual because someone did it...... That's why banana plugs are banned in Europe. They do fit into European AC outlets, so now speaker cables are fitted with BFA connectors. BFA stands for British Federation of Audio. You can see some at http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Connectors They're a split tube, with a wavy edge to the split, and they fit directly into regular binding posts. The BFA "bananas" (but they're not really a banana, since they're cylindrical) are actually a better connector, with more contact surface area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted April 16, 2007 Author Share Posted April 16, 2007 There may be some logic to the sequence of connections just as Paul said. You don't want to have the speaker end of the wire pair able to short because of fumbling butter-finger effects when the other ends are connected to the amp when it is on. So the best way of avoiding getting the hot terminal on the amp connected to ground, via fumbling, is to make that connection last. = = = OT: There is a similar, but inverted, recommended sequence when connecting automobile jumper cables. You don't want to create a dead short at the end meant for the dead battery. Something to be avoided is to connect the ground cable to the dead car before the hot cable. This is because then making the second connection, fumbling, you could connect the hot to the chassis of the car. Statistically, there are may places to fumble into a short simply because there are so many chassis points at ground. You can fumble the hot red cable to chassis (if first handled) because the chassis of the dead car is "floating" above ground, as they say. It is just a hunk of metal insulated by the tires. The final issue in auto jumpers is to not make the final ground connection at the battery post of the charged battery. A spark could set off hydrogen outgassing. I saw the after-effect of hydrogen ignition once. It was the hydrogen within the cell which blew up and knocked out the wall of the cell. It must have spattered sulphuric acid around. Gi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodcaw boy Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Attached is the Klipsch Instruction Manual. It gives the official word on some issues like placement of drones away from walls, wire, and care of wood. This actually comes from Mike B. He included it in the sale of his Belle to me. I picked up the speaker last Saturday in Tennessee. OT it was very nice to meet Mike. A fine fellow. He showed off his Jubilees. Unfortuately there was not nearly enough time to visit. I had to hit the road to get back to Chicago. Gil gilpubs OT it was very nice to meet Mike. A fine fellow. He showed off his Jubilees. Unfortuately there was not nearly enough time to visit. I had to hit the road to get back to Chicago. WOW!! have a blessed night, roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebse2a3 Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Hello Gil It was great to actually meet Gil and unfortunatly he needed to return to Chicago and with a long drive and a forecast of severe weather(which started very soon after he left) I certainly understood why. Anyway I hope to see you again in Indy and maybe we both will get to hear some Jubs there![] mike tn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted April 17, 2007 Author Share Posted April 17, 2007 Lets see. 120 volts RMS into 8 ohms gives 1.8 kiloWatts. That is going to be very loud, if only for a short time. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picky Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 Gil: Thanks for posting the manual. This will make a fine addition to my fledgling audio library! -Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted April 19, 2007 Author Share Posted April 19, 2007 To follow up. There was a question on whether I heard the Jubilee and by inference the 402 horns. Of course, but I heard not nearly enough. I should leave it to Mike to describe his room and room treatment a bit more. His work is very impressive. Tube traps above the speakers is only part of the equation. I daresay that Mike is the first to point out that the bass units don't get any help from room modes, the room being small. There is still that clean, tight bass. He also has abosorbers and diffusers placed by ear and much experimentation. Mike tells me that he finds the common suggestion of putting an absorber on a wall where mirrors and flashlight mechanics predict are not entirely correct. Experimentation, and much listening gives improved results. The most striking initial impression of Mike's system is a very well focused, uncanny, image in the center. This may be helped by the fact that he has positioned an absorber on the wall just between the speakers. I've not heard of that technique before. Mike showed off the 402s' mechanics. We have some ongoing debates here on the forum about damping metal K-400s, and that fiberglass 401 units do not need it. However, the 402 seems to have very thin walls which are not very well damped by their structure. So Mike has added a some damping by sand in freezer bags and blankets. He has more efforts in the works including a wood structure around the mouth. The bottom line is that I heard the speakers a little bit. But moreso, I heard Mike's extensive efforts to make the room work. = = = = I'll let Mike tell us more about the good tube amplification, EV equalization, and CD player. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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