Creative Peach Wireing and Amp Switcher Questions???? Separating TV from 2-Channel

[mowntnbkr]

I am using 2 preamps, a BBX and a EAD TheaterMaster. I use the BBX for LP's and CD's and the EAD for movies, cable and Xbox. I would like to have a switch made that will let me use my VRD's, but switch bewteen preamps I like the EAD for movies and such for the remote and the fact that it is DTS. Anyone out there interested in making one?

[mark1101]

I don't consider my HT to be a lesser quality sound. I put that system together for a specific purpose that was mainly for movies and TV. But I still can enjoy watching concert DVDs on that system because I prefer 5.1 to 2 Ch for that. Sure, I could play a concert DVD on my 2 Ch system too. I just choose not to.

It seems you consider your AVR as a lesser quality sound than your VRDs. I don't with mine. It is a different sound but not necessarily lesser quality. I have a fairly recent Denon AVR system that is excellent IMHO (not the most expensive one either). It sounds nothing like tubes....but it has far more power than my tube equipment, and far more bass slam as well...and is very clean. For 2 ch. critical music listening over a long period of time I use the tubes.

One thing I was hinting at in my original post in this thread was that my habits don't always allow me to get the most of my tubes. I tend to have an hour here and there during the week. This is why I like my HT. Because I can turn it on for an hour and enjoy it to the fullest right away and then turn it off. The tubes would just be getting to sound right and then I would be shutting them off. Why bother even turning them on? I have to be honest...I do not really enjoy the first 30 - 45 min. of my tube system when first turned on. After several hours...like 8...then it sounds VERY good. I tend to do this on weekends.

We just have different preferences. Not a big deal. But......consider how you are using your tube equipment and the problems you have. That was the intent of my original post. []

[cjgeraci]

Frank - I have no idea what you're talking about.

Maybe I'll call Niles to sort out the differences between these 2 gadgets.

I'm thinking....... If I wanted to have 3 scenarios... 1) 2-channel with tubes 2) Peach HT bypass for surround using tubes for mains 3) strictly AVR The Peach allows toggling between the first 2 options. Already have that. So a switchbox would go where in the system to get the 3rd option? I'd switch the Peach to HT bypass - then the switchbox to toggle between HT bypass and strictly AVR/HT receiver? Is that about right?

Me Loves Khorns - Could you describe a bit better these adapters you're using in the Niles? Are they perhaps the flexy banana type ends? It's really a shame Niles choose to limit the holes to 14g.

The problem is option 3 - You can not have "strictly AVR" because your AVR (& your speakers ) are going through your Peach and VRD's. Now if you had a seperate outboard amplifier for use with "strictly AVR" - that's what the PS-1 would switch between. Because you're using your preamp out from your receiver, your AVR amplifier section is not being used. In order to use your AVR, you would need to run a seperate set of speaker wires from AVR to the speakers and disconnect the preouts, or get ANOTHER amplifier to utilize the PS-1. E-mail me and I'll send you my phone number if you'd like to discuss over the phone. It's a little difficult to get across in print. Frank.p.hess@sargentlundy.com

The solution is to use the Niles DPS-1 with two amps, the VRDs and a second amp - both fed from the Peach. The Peach outputs can be split multiple times - just look at the back of my Peach. Run one Peach/VRD feed to the DPS-1 and then another Peach/digital amp? feed to the DPS-1 - and then the DPS-1 output to the front Khorns. Then, you can: 1) use the Peach/VRDs for two-channel; 2) use the Peach HT bypass - using AVR feed but with VRDs for mains; and 3) use the Peach HT bypass - still using AVR feed but with different amp.

[Coytee]

The solution is to use the Niles DPS-1 with two amps, the VRDs and a second amp - both fed from the Peach. The Peach outputs can be split multiple times - just look at the back of my Peach. Run one Peach/VRD feed to the DPS-1 and then another Peach/digital amp? feed to the DPS-1 - and then the DPS-1 output to the front Khorns. Then, you can: 1) use the Peach/VRDs for two-channel; 2) use the Peach HT bypass - using AVR feed but with VRDs for mains; and 3) use the Peach HT bypass - still using AVR feed but with different amp.

One thing to be careful of as I learned... I had a split output from the Peach and each leg was connected to Transcendent OTL's bridged to a whopping 4 wpc.

Upon turning the OTL's OFF under normal conditions, the circuit protector on my solid state amp tripped.

Took several conversations but Mark (Deneen) was able to sleuth down for me that upon turning the OTL's off, they bled just a tiny amount of DC current out of their INPUT jack. Well..since the input jack was connected to a "Y" adapter, it became an output jack and was fed into the input of my solid state amp and WHAMMMMMMMMMO it got knocked down.

The fix was to NEVER turn them off while the other amp was on. It was ok to turn them ON while the other amp was on, just couldn't turn them OFF lest the back-zap got me as they powered down.

Became easier for me to just take them out of the system.

[cjgeraci]

The solution is to use the Niles DPS-1 with two amps, the VRDs and a second amp - both fed from the Peach. The Peach outputs can be split multiple times - just look at the back of my Peach. Run one Peach/VRD feed to the DPS-1 and then another Peach/digital amp? feed to the DPS-1 - and then the DPS-1 output to the front Khorns. Then, you can: 1) use the Peach/VRDs for two-channel; 2) use the Peach HT bypass - using AVR feed but with VRDs for mains; and 3) use the Peach HT bypass - still using AVR feed but with different amp.

One thing to be careful of as I learned... I had a split output from the Peach and each leg was connected to Transcendent OTL's bridged to a whopping 4 wpc.

Upon turning the OTL's OFF under normal conditions, the circuit protector on my solid state amp tripped.

Took several conversations but Mark (Deneen) was able to sleuth down for me that upon turning the OTL's off, they bled just a tiny amount of DC current out of their INPUT jack. Well..since the input jack was connected to a "Y" adapter, it became an output jack and was fed into the input of my solid state amp and WHAMMMMMMMMMO it got knocked down.

The fix was to NEVER turn them off while the other amp was on. It was ok to turn them ON while the other amp was on, just couldn't turn them OFF lest the back-zap got me as they powered down.

Became easier for me to just take them out of the system.

Coytee, you bring up a great point that I forgot to mention. Currently, I am just running my VRDS by themselves, but I have run various combinations of solid state and tubes off of the Niles DPS-1, and I can see how one could have problems under the scenario you described. My rule of thumb was to never have both amps on at the same time, despite the resistor in the DPS-1, and power up and off amps independently and solely. Maybe it was my paranoia but I never had a problem that way.

Carl.

[meagain]

LOL It just occurred to me that I could simply turn the darned VRDs off and have the TV playing through the center Cornwall (that has DeanG foofoo crossover) and perhaps a tad bit from the rear/sides. Yep, I just tried it. Sounds perfectly fine for low level stuff for if I need to see cable news in that part of the house during the day, etc. I'm such a dipsh*t sometimes. This will minimally hold me over till I better figure this out.

Carl - are you using 14g wire on the Niles then?

[meagain]

I have the same issues. The same room with tubes and ss.

I use the Niles switcher. Don't notice any problems with it. I too am running larger gage wire with my speakers. I got some little speaker plug in things from Radio Shack where you take the large gage wire, put it into them, it then narrows down to a smaller plug in. This then fits nicely into the back of the Niles. Otherwise, it would be rather hard to wire into the back of it. This has worked seamlessly. I too don't really want to be running my Mac amp just for watching TV news, etc.

Paul

Bingo problem solved..

I bet this is what he is referring too

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2470644&cp=2032058.2032231&cp=2032058&f=Taxonomy%2FRSK%2F2032231&categoryId=2032231&kwCatId=2032058&kw=speaker+termination&parentPage=search

So you buy the Niles amp switcher and terminate the ends of 12 gage wire with these to allow the use of the larger wire in the Niles switcher.

Craig

OK. I have something that looks like that but has flexy ends. I wonder if the flexy ends would be better for this. It's hard to tell how it attaches but it looks like a hole/guillotine type thing according to a pic I found? If correct, it's nice I wouldn't have to buy all new wire.

[Arky]

I'm such a dipsh*t sometimes.

LOL! Would someone who has actually met Lisa write a post describing the experience. I gotta say Lisa, you can hold your own with the boys here.

[NOSValves]

OK. I have something that looks like that but has flexy ends. I wonder if the flexy ends would be better for this. It's hard to tell how it attaches but it looks like a hole/guillotine type thing according to a pic I found? If correct, it's nice I wouldn't have to buy all new wire.

I have no clue what you mean by flexy ends. The niles has holes for 14 gage wire with a nice set screw to allow you to really tighten down the connection. I think you may mean you have a set of spring loaded banana ends when you say "flexy ends". If so I'm not sure if they would slide in the Niles 14 gage opening. But the link above would for sure.

Craig

[Me Loves Khorns]

Meagain.

I am using the adaptors that Craig is showing from Radio Shack.

I went with the solid, or stiff ones like he is showing.

I was worried that the flexy ended ones might touch each other at times, was not sure if that might be a problem.

They fit great, just put your wire into the adaptors, then just thighten the screws down from on top. The guilitine thing then comes down. They never have slipped out. This would give you a seamlessly easy way to do it.

Just come out with your speaker wires from each amp.

Go into the switch box with both sets, then run a single wire to the speakers. I was previously having to crawl back behind my equipment and switch the cables manually. Real pain.

Paul