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lascala refinish 2


shepjk01

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Well about a month and a half ago I picked up a pair of 77 lascalas from Trey. They where prime canidates for a reveneering job as Trey informed me that before he had gotten them they had been hung up in a bar. I wasn't concerned about cosmetics only the drivers which he had replaced them all when he got the speakers. This is the first redo that I remembered to take some before photos. The speakers had a numerous dings, dents, chips, and holes in the cabinets. Just to give an idea it took 2 full cans of minwax high performance wood filler and about 30 peices of 100 grit sandpaper to get the cabinets ready for veneer. I spent around 20-25 hours just prepping the cabinets for the veneer. The next step was selecting the veneer for this project. I called up oak wood veneer in Michigan and I wanted 3 sequenced matched 8x4 22.2 mil paper backed sheets of premium AA grade cherry. The seqence matching ensures the grain and color of each sheet match. They also emailed me pictures of the sheets before hand for my approval. They are a great place to work with. In aplying the veneer itself I used Heat lock and iron on method on the outsides and contact cement on the inside of the bass bins. I still prefer contact cement to the heat lock method but thats just me. I will post more on the finish used and further steps once I get some more pics up today.

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Alright here are the almost finished photos. I still need to get the jubilee emblems for the grills and I'm waiting on a pair of alk's from Al. I had photos of the process as I went along but my wife deleted them from the camera. The final finishing process was one coat of tung oil which I allowed to dry for 5 days followed by 9 coats of hand rubbed poly. Coats 1-5 where sanded with 220 grit between coats. Coats 5-8 I used 320 grit between coats. The final coat was applied last night and the cabinets where sanded with 400 grit. The final finish turned out my best yet. The finishing process took about a week and a half letting most coats dry overnight. Here are the photos!

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Thanks for the compliments. As far as the molding I get it from baird brothers in Ohio. They are a mill and you can order it direct. I used curly cherry molding for my entertainment center that I ordered direct from them. If you do not see the wood you are looking for on their website you can give them a call and they can usually get it.

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Outstanding work. I like that you left the bottom of the base bins black, it really sets off the cherry. I have a couple of questions. You said you liked the contact method over the heat lock, and that you used the contact on the insides of the bass bins. Seems it would have been difficult to lay the inside pieces with the contact method, did you use something between the veneer and the bin to position the pieces and then remove to set? Do you find the contact has better adhesion or are there another reasons?

Tom

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The main reason I used contact cement method on the bass bins is that there is no way to get an iron into the back parts of the bass bin to heat the veneer using the heat lock method. As far as positioning the veneer I use a few 1/4 dowel rods cut to the length of the bass bin wall then lay the veneer on them until it is in position. Then slowly remove each one press it down with my hand then go over it with a roller to firmly press it down into place. The lascala has to be repositioned depending on the side of the bass bin that is being worked on. As far as why I prefer the contact cement the main reason is less waiting time between application and when you can apply it to the substrate. It just takes more care when using it versus the heat lock method. Once the two substrates come into contact there is no repositioning the veneer. The bond is permanent. With the heat lock and iron method the bond is not formed until the heat is applied so there is more working time to set the piece into place.

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