Guest David H Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 Nice, I was concerned the adapter got lost in the mail system. Your findings on the drivers are consistant with mine, here are the graphs. I found the K-55 to have an overall smoother response, and respond better at the lower frequencies. The K-52 not as smooth on an analyser, but listening test was difficult to tell the difference. K-52H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 The K-55v / Atlas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bliss53 Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 The current configuration in testing is ct125, k52, with the ALK ap12-500/es5800 dialed with the mids at -9.5db and the tweeter at -5. Very nice. This is the best setting but I seem to notice a little disconnect between the high end of the mid and the tweeter. If I bring down either the mid or the tweet from these settings the mid detail is decreased to much. I will be finding the correct settings on the ap12-500/es5800 in my room with the K55. Then I will try a borrowed ALK designed cornwall crossover with the k52. That should ending the testing. Thanks to all those who are provideing the borrowed equipment and offering the valuable advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Klappenberger Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Bliss, Try playing with the the tweeter and squawker phasing. That issue has not been addressed yet using the AP12 and ES5800 combo in the Cornwall. Al K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bliss53 Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 Are you talking about switching the postive and negative wire connections from the drivers at the terminal strip? If so, do you change the tweeter and listen, then return the tweeter to the original position and switch the squawker and listen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Try playing with the the tweeter and squawker phasing. Al makes a great point, I prefer the squalker phase reversed on my setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Klappenberger Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Yes. I suggest reversing the polarity of the drivers. It should be done using white noise and an analyzer to look for glitches at the two crossovers. I don't think the tweeter polarity makes any difference, but it can't hurt to try it. Al K. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bliss53 Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 I have white noise but no analyzer. What does an analyzer cost and what should I get it? I will have to learn how to use something new or continue to tune by ear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bliss53 Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 I switched the squawker leads and the mid and highs join up nicely. I do notice that the sound stage has shifted down. Kind of like I am in the balcony seats of a very good theater. Would the switch cause this or am I hearing things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Klappenberger Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Bliss, One of the computer based RTA software programs and a sound card should do for basic testing. You will need a good reliable mike too. I use a fancy dynamic analyzer for testing, but it's not for a living room environment at all. It's a big beast on a wheel cart that I hide in the shop! There is nothing scentific about listening tests. It's totally subjective. Everyone hears something different. Often people will hear what they want to hear! This is why I very seldom say how something sounds to me. If you hear an improved sound stage with a particular setting, then that's where to leave it set! Al K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bliss53 Posted August 8, 2009 Author Share Posted August 8, 2009 I have arrived at some decision on my cornwalls. The best sound came form the following 2 combinations for me. The first and the best was the ct124, k52, gothover horns, k33 with the alk network settings described above. A close second was the k77m, k55v, gothover horns, k33 with alk designed B network replacement. So today I gutted the cornwalls to finish the black spray paint and to put a finish on the new veneer. In order to have something to listen to during this process, I dragged the old lascalas out ant put in ct125s, K55vs, new alk mid horns on top, and k33 with the ap/es alk networks. I was prepared to like this set up less than the modified cornwalls. i believed that the cornwalls were a more appropriate scale for my room, the cornwalls sounded way better than the stock lasaclas, and I like that the cornwalls play a little lower. Boy was I wrong. The modified lascala blew me away. They may not play as low but the presence of the alk midrange horn was pretty amazing. It matches so well with the woofer that I never missed the lowest register. I now have two pair of great speakers and a main speaker choice to make and testing to do... time for a lascala thread. I am thinking figured maple veneer with a separate top hat for the lascala... also for a lascala thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Would be so much easier if one set of speakers sounded lowsy. Cant wait to see your Lascala thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bliss53 Posted August 10, 2009 Author Share Posted August 10, 2009 Black paint and one coat of finish on one speaker. My outdoor prep and painting of the second was interupted by rain. My family does not like the smell of spray paint so I wait for a calm day with a low pollen count. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bliss53 Posted August 20, 2009 Author Share Posted August 20, 2009 Update. Applied three coats of danish oil on and will add several coats of butchers wax this weekend. I broke one of the grills when I dropped on a corner. I had not yet applied the cloth. It was made of 1/4 inch mdf. I will redo with 1/4 inch plywood. Live and learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Ill bet they are looking spectacular. I typically use hardboard for the grills, the ply warps to easily, and MDF is very brittle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HudsonValleyNoah Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Looking good Pete... I like that stuff in the background too! You still have them both, yes? N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS Button Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 Use the Masonite board for your grills 3/16" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bliss53 Posted August 29, 2009 Author Share Posted August 29, 2009 Looking good Pete... I like that stuff in the background too! You still have them both, yes? N Still got them both. Never heard from shipper. Did you get a settlement. I have not done anything yet. Working on cornwall grills today. Using groomlake's instructions. I noticed his tag line says that he is not an active member. If any one is in contact, let him know that I thank him very much for sharing his knowledge and experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bliss53 Posted August 29, 2009 Author Share Posted August 29, 2009 I used the in mdf because I already had them painted and cut. I was able to gorilla glue the broken grill. I counter sunk some magnets in the grills and screwed some washers to the motor boards. Works pretty slick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 Using groomlake's instructions. I noticed his tag line says that he is not an active member. If any one is in contact, let him know that I thank him very much for sharing his knowledge and experience. Bliss: I was inactive for about 3 months due to work and mil commitments. Happens every year from mid-May through August. When I get ready to leave or be unavailable, I just change my profile so folks don't send me emails or PM's and I cannot reply in a timely fashion. I've not had any problems using the fiberboard for grills.... but I always use the type that is resin impregnated (has a reddish tint), and always paint both sides to really make sure it is sealed. Greg's method using very thin plywood is probably better for the larger grills in the long run, but either way works well. I like the fiberboard inasmuch as it's what the factory used and I guess it's more of a "nostalgia" thing. BTW..... They sure look nice so far; absolutely great work!!!! Your attention to detail is superb!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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