colterphoto1 Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 I'm now working on my personal (for keeps) MCM1900 stack. Look for another exciting 'Rebuild' thread coming soon. Got to go out and use the bottle brush on the manifold and brush the bug poo off that K41, whew, that after soldering in 10 piezos and re-diaphragming 4 K55V's WHEW! Lotta work guys but it's fun. M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 MC. I'm confused on H and G. Are you saying that G is 3.5" and H is 4.25"? This would mean that the triangles cut out of the 4 corners of the baffle are 3.5" on each "short side" of the triangle. Then the volume space created by the initial flare (in Blue) would have a base length of 4.25". So what that would mean to me is that those traingles cut out of the baffle don't "line up" with those first flares. Does this make sense? jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 I just need to clarify this as I'm calculating the internal woofer chamber volume. I need to know if I need to use 4.25 or 3.5? thanks jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted March 10, 2009 Moderators Share Posted March 10, 2009 I have been building for the last 2 days and just went out and measured the one I made and the one Klipsch made and both measurements are 3.5'' G and H. Really it's between 3 3/8" and 3 1/2" depending what side you measure. Inside the center section is 15.5" inside measurements, each G is 3.5 x 2 = 7" each side of the plywood flair is 3/4" x 2 = 1.5" beginning of flair is 7" ___________ 15.5" The slight difference in measurements probably comes from the angle on the end of the flair, where it meets the motherboard it is about 10 degrees which makes the width of the plywood slightly wider than 3/4" . ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 11, 2009 Author Share Posted March 11, 2009 Trust G, it was measured, H was derived and I must have an error there. Looks like thickness of plywood is off. The cutout is at 45 and you cannot see the edge of the first flare board from looking inside the woofer chamber. So yea, what dtel said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted March 11, 2009 Moderators Share Posted March 11, 2009 D is 7 1/4" Also at the end of the first flair where it opens up to the rear it is 15", inside measurement, which is 1/2" skinnier than the center section. They cut 1/4" off of each piece of plywood, on an angle where the two join together. I could not do it like they did, I had to take it off of one side to get the correct inside measurement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted March 11, 2009 Moderators Share Posted March 11, 2009 You have to admire the creativity considering all the trial and error it must have taken to get this design to preform, look how across the motherboard the only space left is the thickness of each 3/4" board and still separates the backspace from the inside of the horn. I had to mount an extra piece of wood to hold the backs of the T-nuts so they can't fall out, just on this first bin. I need to find something similar to what Klipsch used with the two screws to hold each barrel nut so it cant fall out. The ones that mount the driver would be impossible to get back in once assembled. This is rough, nothing has been sanded or cleaned up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted March 11, 2009 Moderators Share Posted March 11, 2009 Michael what do you recommend for the weatherstripping "stuff" to seal the doors ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 11, 2009 Author Share Posted March 11, 2009 parts express has two kinds, I'd get the wider type. This is thicker than Klipsch originally used (there's is about 5/8" rubber), but it compresses down nicely. when installing the weatherstrip, be sure to lay it out gently and do not stretch it. If stretched, it'll stretch back and leave gaps. Gaps are bad. Great work so far, I don't know if I'd have the courage to tackle The Beast! Are you using a circular saw and a guide for the long panel cuts? M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted March 11, 2009 Moderators Share Posted March 11, 2009 Great work so far, I don't know if I'd have the courage to tackle The Beast! Are you using a circular saw and a guide for the long panel cuts? Yes, when the sheet of wood is to big to handle through the table saw i use a guide clamped to the wood to guide the saw, or it would look like terrible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 Just a bump from me for an old favorite thread. I've posted a lot of photos, spec sheets, and crossover schematics here on the Commercial Forums during my tenure as Klipsch Tech Support and since being let go by Klipsch. Please keep this forum alive and you might think of me when you fire up some of the venerable beasts. I've always loved Klipsch pro products and will still be using them in my sound system rentals although I will no longer be appearing on this Forum or at company functions. It's been fun, Michael 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JL Sargent Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 Michael, I hate see you go. Seems the forums are much quieter lately. Not alot going on I'm afraid. If you really must go then take care and good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted January 26, 2010 Author Share Posted January 26, 2010 bump for new MCM owner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted June 6, 2010 Author Share Posted June 6, 2010 Bump for Richard Coyteeo, next contestant on 'What's my MWM?' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 It’s still to cold to do much here in Massachusetts and I am thinking that this would be a good project to build when the weather gets a bit milder here. I have a couple sheets of 4 x 10 foot Mahogany plywood and will need a couple more to build a pair of MWMs but only one needs to be Mahogany so probably a hundred in change there. I have been looking at Michael’s dimensions and the ones that Dtel has supplied too and I still have the same question as JC’s had back on the second page, Dtel says 9.25 and Michael says 8 11/16 and my math tells me 9.5 inches. So it’s cold out and figured I would draw it out and see why nothing agreed with the measured figures. My drawn out full size first flair and back chamber says 9.5 also so who else has a MWM that they could verify the B dimension? Quoting Michael, "A - backbox depth from front of cabinet to woofer side of back board = 12 3/4 or 12 internally. Note that the back box door does not come quite to the front edge of the horn, allowing some space between aluminum trim to get door slid into place. B is derived as J - F (see next drawing) or 42 1/16 - 34 1/4 = 8 13/16" What I get is 44 ½ - ¾ (for the back thickness) is 43 ¾ 43 ¾ - 34 ¼ {for the end of the initial flair (F)} is 9 ½ Does anyone want to add to the mystery? Thanks for keeping me in new projects, they are good to keep me out of trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 J-F=B. 44.5 - 34.25 = 10.25 assume 3/4 wood is being used so K and C are 3/4 thick making the adjustments due to wood thickness 1.5 so B = 10.25 - 1.5 or 8.75 or 8 12/16 my opinion is that the distance indicated as B wasn't a calculated on but rather a happenstance one. I don't think changing it an inch in either direction will do anything significant to the frequency response since if you rejoin the two horn lenths the wall angles wouln't match anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 B is derived as J - F (see next drawing) or 42 1/16 - 34 1/4 = 8 13/16" What I get is 44 ½ - ¾ (for the back thickness) is 43 ¾ 43 ¾ - 34 ¼ {for the end of the initial flair (F)} is 9 ½ Does anyone want to add to the mystery? Thanks for keeping me in new projects, they are good to keep me out of trouble. Could the slightly different dimensions be a result of old vs. new numbers on the MWM bottom specs?? From the MCM 1900 literature, the total depth vs. total front didth is 44.75 and 68 respectively. For the Grand 4T (new) it is 45 and 67.25. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Thanks guy for the replies. Comprehension has never been one of my talents and I think I missed this bit from Michael. "F Back box, initial horn flare depth = 34 1/4 (+ 1/4 gap to front of horn mouth on mine- see note on A above)" So this changes this bit that I posted this morning "What I get is 44 ½ - ¾ (for the back thickness) is 43 ¾ 43 ¾ - 34 ¼ {for the end of the initial flair (F)} is 9 ½" to 44 ½ - ¾ (for the back thickness) is 43 ¾ 43 ¾ - (34 ¼ + ¼ setback for the woofer door) {for the end of the initial flair (F)} is 9 1/4" Which is exactly what Dtel stated back on page 2 Seems it takes me 3 or more readings to grasp what folks are writing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted February 1, 2011 Moderators Share Posted February 1, 2011 Gary if you want another drawing with some measurents send me your email address to dtegreenpt@yahoo.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Hello dtel Thanks for the offer. More info is better than less. I need all the help I can get, just ask folk that know me,,. email sent. Thank you again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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