Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 One down... three to go.... Looks ugly, sorta like herpes.... but it’s smooth and ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Next one; notice the "knife edge" seams and corners. [H] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 In the case of the H-I’s, I’m going to use the original backs. The other "side" has the serial stickers, so I will simply flip them over and sand them with 220. They will not be sealed however because they will be black laquer primered in the same fashion as the original factory finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 The original terminal binding posts will not be used. I will replace them with some high quality binding posts that accept wire or banana plugs. In that case I seal the original holes with glazing putty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Next step is to wipe down the final sanded cabinets with mineral spirits. Since I will use an oil based sealer (or laquer primer), I take a paper towel and fold it into a small square. Liberally soak the "pad" with mineral spirits and wipe each panel off. You will pick up the sanding residue. In addition, the mineral spirits initially soak into the wood and "pop" the grain (expands the wood fibers). This allows the sealer, primer, etc to penetrate. Use a clean side of your pad for each panel. Let dry for at least 2-3 hours.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Here’s what the original walnut on the H-I’s looked like 32 years ago (except for the repairs I had to do from the original owner(s) banging them around, etc.) They were very pretty; shame about what happened to them before I got them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Note: In the previous photograph, when they are "wet" with mineral spirits, you will have a very good idea of what that wood would look like with a clear lacquer or oiled finish. Ok... they are all wiped down with mineral spirits and dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Here’s what one of the H-I’s looks like with the sealer. The sealer is an extremely light oil based product that does not quite completely seal the pores of the wood, but binds to the cellulose strands in the wood. This inhibits and slows down the wood from absorbing too much veneer glue (or stain, etc.). It also prevents "splotching", or uneven absorption of stains when you are doing the final finishing. This will be very important on Carl's H-II's when the oak veneer arrives. In Car'ls case, I will be using an oak veneer. Oak is a "ring porous" wood and has a comparatively rough surface. When applying a stain without a sealer, it can make for heavy "grain contrast". Dependent upon what the owner wants, if I apply a sealer, it makes it more even and without a large contrast in the grains. In the case of the H-I's, they will be done with manhogany. That is a diffuse porous wood, and sealer is not actually necessary unless the effect you want is a very even coloring in any applied stain. This is probably what the H-I's looked like with their original oiled finish. Must have been spectacular!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Here’s the raw birch H-II’s. They were quite pretty. Shame about what was done to them. You can still see where the pigment particles from the "paint job" soaked into the grain of the wood. They cannot really be further removed without simply grinding through the veneer. Not an issue because they will be red oak in about a week.....[H] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Later this evening will be photos of (a) a quick and practical black lacquer refresh technique on motor boards and rear panels; ( application of PSA backed veneer, and hopefully © application of contact cemented veneer panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Wow Marshall!! In my wildest dreams I could never had made those cabinets come out like that. They're definitely in the right hands. Absolutely beautiful work. It reminds me of a fine paint job on a car. The outcome is determined by what's done BEFORE the paint's applied. Crappy prep, crappy finish. Painstaking prep, beautiful finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Forum's been down; I;ve been in the ocean all day with the lads.... surf passage with the Zodiacs.... cold wet tired and hungry they are now.... Just back in from night vision devices exercise up the river.... I'll continue on tomorrow afternoon with veneer pictures, etc; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nola Posted October 12, 2008 Author Share Posted October 12, 2008 I just posted on comparing speakers and amps. Turns out the hard luck HII has treble issues. Snares, etc from Krall DVD are muted. Maybe time for new caps, etc afterall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Back from the drill. Yesterday was weapons quals (CQB course with M4's) and weps cleaning and facility cleanup lasted until after 5:00 PM. I am re-organizing the last photos I took on Thursday and Friday, and will take a bunch more this afternoon and tomorrow. What I want to do is show everyone the application differences of four different types of veneer glues (heatlock, contact cement, PSA, and a special water based contact cement called Flex-Pro). The H-II's red oak veneer and a new jug of Flex-Pro for the H-II's won't be here until later this week. I'll have the first three types of glue on the Heresy-I's by this afternoon, do the edgebanding methods tomorrow, and wrap up the H-I's with application of a brushed satin black lacquer finish on the rear panels and sprayed black lacquer for the primary finish. Carl's H-II's will be stained with a Minwax #210B Golden Oak and final finished with a "danish" oil. NOLA: Sure sounds like caps or diaphragms. Maybe pull the offending midrange and tweeter, test them with a multimeter, and look at the diaphragms for discoloration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 I just posted on comparing speakers and amps. Turns out the hard luck HII has treble issues. Snares, etc from Krall DVD are muted. Maybe time for new caps, etc afterall. Hard to say what the issue could be...it could be a combination of issues. Over the weekend I hooked up some recently purchaed LaScala's. I was not impressed with the sound at all, they did not sound anything close to my other set of LaScala's. I replaced the mid driver in one speaker (speaker A).....wasn't wow'ed yet. Changes so far: mid driver change, I replaced the tweeter in speaker A...wasn't wow'ed yet. Changes so far: mid driver change, tweeter change , I replaced the crossover in speaker A ....I was wow'ed by the change. Changes so far: mid driver change, tweeter change , crossover change. I went back to the other speaker (speaker and disconnected all the wires on the crossover and then reconnected them.....I was wow'ed by the change. Changes so far: nonthing...just reseated all the connections. I went back to speaker A, and put everything back they way it was....effectively just reseating all the connections...and was wow'ed by the change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nola Posted October 13, 2008 Author Share Posted October 13, 2008 Thanks for the advice. Who did your x overs, or just new caps / which ones? Maybe, it is the diaphrams, not the drivers? Getting clobbered with projects, etc now. So I will likely address these issues in a few weeks. This past weekend was the last of my "goof off" time for a while. The cabinet refinishing was awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Generally, I have Bob Crites do crossovers as my soldering skills are not the best.... I've done a couple crossovers myself with Bob's kits, and they came out fine, but they were very simple (Cornwall B's). My skills are pretty much limited to crossovers that are mounted on plywood boards.... I won't try a printed circuit board type (H-II's).... Bob uses Sonicaps. Others will suggest other types. They can range in price.... Alot.... I'd redo the crossovers, or send them to Bob and then sit back and listen to what you hear for a while. Caps can be a major factor in straightening up the sound. The other factor can be the connector clips in the H-II's. You will need to make sure that the spades and the female clips on the leads from the crossover are clean and on tight. That alone can cause problems that would make you think there's something wrong with the drivers. Another thing that I have seen (more often lately...) with used Heresy's is that previous owners have removed the drivers for whatever reason and when hooking them back up got the wires crossed and put them out of phase. Terrible sound results..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Okay.... Here we go with the next installment..... Before doing the motorboards and rear panels, clean up any and all sanding residue, dust etc. I use a big wall paper brush and q-tips in the corners. Wipe clean with a slightly damp cloth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 If the old velcro gill pieces are still on the motor boards, remove them. It is a real pain and takes elbow grease, fingernails, putty knives, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 And liberal use of this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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