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dougdrake

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Everything posted by dougdrake

  1. As far as TV height...ideally you'd want your eyes to be about 1/3 the way up from the bottom of the screen, from your usual viewing position.
  2. Another case of reality colliding with theory, it seems. My long HDMI cables are the 22awg. Not sure if the smaller ones work as well - never tried them. I think that it's important to remember that custom installers are going to play it very conservative and be very safe in anything they install, because they can't afford call-backs to deal with issues that might arise from working outside the specs. We, who live with this stuff in our homes, may be more receptive to pushing the envelope in the name of convenience or cost savings. (Coytee - maybe you should put on your dog's spectacles... [])
  3. 50' and 75' (both from Monoprice) from my Tivo HD with no problem
  4. Isn't this really what the embedded room correction systems do (e.g. Audyssey) - tweak the frequencies across the spectrum to adjust for the room, which is in effect just extended bass/treble controls? http://www.audyssey.com/products?m=index
  5. Forte = balls I upgraded from KG4 to Forte and was very impressed with the increased soundstage and bass. I believe you'd be fine with them in your room. I had mine in an 11x10 room for a while and it was really quite impactful.
  6. And if the waxing idea doesn't cut it, you could repaint them. I did that to my black Chorus using spray paint and they turned out quite respectable. There is a brand and sheen that is a close match to the original available in a standard spray can - I'd have to search to find it as it's seen several years and I don't remember (plus I've slept since then).
  7. For a pre/pro, check out the Onkyo Pro 886 - it has balanced outputs, and is quite the bargain. You can also find them refurbished (or at least used to) at accessories4less for under a grand. If you get a PJ that supports 1080p, you'll want to use HDMI as the video feed to it - it's the only way to get 1080p source material to it without it being scaled down to 1080i and then back to 1080p in the PJ.
  8. Looking for any qualified input on this question -- would it make sense to use something out of the RS surround series instead of direct radiating speakers, given the close proximity to the listeners that the speaker would have on the right side wall, since the right-hand seat is right up against the side wall? I'd be able to mount it just behind the seating position on the wall...at ear level. Thanks in advance.
  9. Can you tell what model of sub it is? The types of connectors on them vary by model. Not knowing that, can you tell us if your sub has more than one set of connectors labelled IN? For example, do you have speaker wire connectors and also RCA connectors (these are the ones that you connect to with a cable that has a pin surrounded by a collar on the end.
  10. Hmm, kind of hard to believe - looks like it belongs in a data center, but I suppose it's possible. I'm looking at the page from work - am too scared to click on this link on that page: 10 Greatest Racks of 2009
  11. Use monoprice for your speaker wire also. And they have quite a selection of cable you can use for your sub: http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=subwoofer&x=17&y=11
  12. Thanks very much - those are good ideas. I hadn't thought about floor stands - was thinking just of wall mounting whatever I ended up with, but I'd probably have more placement flexibility using stands (e.g. toe-in, experimentation, etc...).
  13. Have you changed the connection to a different output on your amp/receiver to see if the trouble follows the speaker? And also connected it via different wire? That will help determine what piece in the mix is failing.
  14. A couple other thoughts to consider: 1) Onkyo Pro 886 - can find it refurbished usually at www.accessories4less.com for just under $1000US. Don't know if they ship to Australia or what the implications are regarding warranty 2) Use a BluRay player with 7.1 analog outputs into a pre-amp that you like. In my case, I have no real reason to go to a new pre-amp as (for me) the only things I'm looking for are the new HD audio formats. I can use my existing Denon which has 8 external inputs and it will work fine for 7.1 HD. The only other thing I'd like is the Audysey (sp?) room EQ for but the money I can't justify a new pre-amp just for that.
  15. Hi all - Looking to the brain trust for some ideas on how to best address surround/rear speakers for the HT room. I am using Chorus mains. I have a Forte I could use as a center, but am using an Academy right now (to me, movie dialog is more clear through the Academy). My challenge is with the surrounds and (if I get them, rear surrounds). My room is layed out with two rows of theater seats extending from the right sidewall, and the rightmost seat in each row is up tight against the wall (this is to allow enough room for an aisle on the left side of the room to get from the front to the back of the room). There is about 5 feet between the second row of seats and the rear wall. The question is what type of speaker should I use, and where do I put them, to handle the side surround (which as I understand it is where the primary surrounds should go). And, if I end up doing 7.1, I'd need to take that into account as well. I have in my speaker inventory 4 unused Academys which I've contemplated using for the surround work - but since they are direct radiating I'm not sure they would give the best results, especially for people seated closer to the right wall. I also have a pair of SS-1 surrounds (an older discontinued dipolar design - WDST). I'm am open to buying any speaker which would resolve this. Thanks in advance for your thoughts! Doug
  16. Does your source device provide 5.1 analog outputs? If so, I'd use those to connect to your Carver. I'm planning to buy a new Bluray player with 7.1 analog outs to use in lieu of my Playstation3 just so I can connect them to my 9-year-old Denon receiver's 7.1 analog inputs, and listen to the new HD audio formats that way.
  17. Mike - You'll need a separate channel for each speaker, or you will not have any audio separation (stereo or surround sound).
  18. I used a KV-3 as a center with my KG4s and it worked out fine.
  19. If you're open to factory refurbs, check out Onkyo: http://shoponkyo.com/products.cfm?group_id=1&subcat=Receiver The HT-RC180 has a lot of bang for the buck, IMO.
  20. In that price bracket, I think Onkyo is offering excellent value. Check out their 6xx and 7xx lines.
  21. Not sure what your budget for a pre/pro is, but Accessories4Less often has the Onkyo Pro PR-SC887 refurbished for $999. I think that is the bargain of the decade. I am running a 45' HDMI cable I got from pccables.com with no problems. Don't know what your distance requirements are.
  22. perhaps you can find some type of ceiling-attached bracket that presents a vertical mounting surface for the speaker? it would extend down from the ceiling and then angle 90 degrees to a flat surface to which you could attach the RS42. or you could build something similar out of plywood and 2x4's.
  23. JJC - If you're open to factory refurb, you can get this Onkyo Preamp for under a grand: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/ONKPRSC886/Onkyo/PR-SC886-THX-Ultra2-Plus-7.1-Channel-3-Zone-Preamplifier/Processor-/1.html This is very well regarded.
  24. Directly hanging wall-mount speakers from the ceiling is generally not advised. The hardware and cabinet are not designed for that type of downward force and you risk pulling the hardware out, damaging the cabinet and, oh by the way, possibly injuring whoever is under them. If that is your only choice, you would be safer off putting some type of safety harness around them and using that to suspend them from the ceiling.
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