dougdrake

Many receivers with HDMI inputs only have the ability to route the video and they did not process the audio over that connection - depends on the vintage of the receiver so you'd want to be sure if you're looking at anything but a current-model receiver. The majority of players pass the new HD audio formats over HDMI in one of various methods for your receiver to process.

The answer to this depends to some degree on a the relative quality of the decoders in your player versus your receiver. Using the 5.1 output on the player means it will be doing the decoding. Using a digital output (either electrical/coax or optical) means the receiver does the decoding. You may have to try both to see which you prefer. It will also depend on the bass management capabilities of your player and your receiver. Many receivers don't apply bass management (routing of low bass to large speakers and your sub) to the 5.1 inputs, so it's up to your player to do that. You can pass music from the player using the same connection as you use for DVD's (in most cases).

I do not believe there are any HD-DVD players available right now that decode DTS HD Master Audio - the ones that deal with it at all pass it to the AVR for decoding, via HDMI.

The reason you want to set each speaker's level using a meter (or your ears, though not the preferred method) in the primary listening position, versus just attempting to compensate using math against the sensitivity, is that there are many room-based variables which will affect the volume of a speaker at your listening position.

I'm a fan of Denon, but it seems right now Onkyo is spanking everyone's hiney with regards to having the latest technologies in very reasonably priced AVRs. In addition to the 805, you might consider the lower-priced TX-SR605. It's also got TrueHD and DTS-HD processing over HDMI, but only 2 HDMI inputs. For me, I won't buy an AVR with fewer than 4 HDMI inputs (I would consume 3 right away - PS3, Toshiba HD-DVD, and my PC).

For me to buy refurbished, the savings need to be worth it. Without a frame of reference in your post, it's hard to say if (for me) it would be worth it. If you're just looking for an inexpensive unit to last until the format wars die, you can almost buy them in the check-out line at the supermarket for the cost of a good cut of beef. OTOH, you could spend $200 for the highly touted OPPO models on this forum.

Sorry, that's far too logical a question to pose and we will have to ignore it. [*-)]

Huh??? The OP said he was considering making an Academy-equivalent, but using KG4 parts, so I'm wondering how it would be equivalent to an Academy if it were made with parts from a KG4, which are different than the parts in an Academy.

Guess I'm wondering how it would be an Academy-equivalent with different drivers, specs, etc....?

Throw them in the gentle cycle with other darks, and lay flat to dry.

I think the only speakers that would sound better than your Quartets in the back are more Forte's.

OMG, Amy, taht was tollaty radebale!

Not sure if Trey Cannon is taking tech support calls these days, but if you spoke to him heed his wisdom!

Has to do with fire code, I believe.

Are you planning to run this inside the walls? If so, I'd recommend getting in-wall (CL) rated wire. If not, do you plan to try to hide it in some way - you might want a ribbon-type wire that can be painted and will be less visually obtrusive. Parts Express is a good source for speaker wire.

To address the OP's question about differences between what appears to be essentially the same model being sold in big box stores and specialty stores....most manufacturers that cover both channels (e.g. Denon, Yamaha, etc...) will produce 2 versions of the same product - one for mass merchandising and one for boutique/custom installer stores. They are virtually identical in terms of content, with a few cosmetic differences. If you check the specs, you'll see they are the same. Sometimes they have a different warranty period - with the boutique edition being longer. I would have no problem buying the mass merchandise model if it otherwise met my requirements.

I use my PS3 for BluRay 720p playback into my Panasonic AE700u PJ with no problems whatsoever. The PS3 also does a great job scaling regular DVD's to 720p.

I got one - it's the A2 model. Plays regular DVD's just fine (as does my PS3). I can't say that the sound is better on that unit than what comes off my regular DVD player - I just didn't notice any difference. However, the upconverting it does to 720P is fine for my projector.

Imaging refers to the ability of the speakers to create the proper left/right/center soundstage, so that it seems realistic to you as the movie soundtrack is played. (Or, in 2-channel mode, that when you close your eyes you can imagine each musician's position on the stage and their instruments' sound emanating from that point.) Sometimes, with speakers high over your head and shooting down at you, you don't get the realism you would get if they were at ear-level. But as was also pointed out, you need to do the best you can as this is a mixed-use room and not a dedicated HT.

I share this concern. Do you have any options as to where this goes? If so, have you spent some time sitting and looking up at that space for an extended period to see if it will be comfortable?

coytee - Not sure what the decision criteria are for you, but I've had good luck with a used BMW 740. My tolerance for used may be higher than yours, but if you're looking for comfort and a nice heavy sedan, the E34 series (1995-2002?) can be had for a very good price. Combine it with a good independent mechanic and it could work out well for you. There are forums dedicated to all these various model series over at www.roadfly.org.

There aren't a lot of preamps to choose from right now with HDMI 1.3 - right now receivers have the widest selection. You COULD use one just as a preamp with outboard ampification. I'm just sitting back waiting for the new crop of preamps, myself.

Video hierarchy is composite - S Video - component - HDMI. Not sure why'd you connect the same component multiple ways - I'd always take the highest qualty one both pieces support. Audio is less clear-cut. As you indicate, it's a function of the DACs in each device (whose are better), as well as what formats each device supports passing over the various connections. For example, most SACD players cannot pass the SACD stream over a digital connection unless the brands are the same and they explicitly support sending/receiving the SACD signal. Thus, you are usually left using the analog outputs allowing the player to decode the SACD stream. Setting SACD aside, I'm not sure I could tell the difference between an optical or elecrical digital connection - my choice is usually driven by what connectors are available to be used - in both cases the preamp is doing the processing. Analog connections mean audio processing is done in the player. There are other considerations you haven't touched on - I mentioned HDMI earlier. Is that a connection type you'll need to support for audio or video? Depends on your plans in the DVD player arena. In my case, I wouldn't buy a preamp that did not support HDMI 1.3, as that is the current state of the art to support all audio formats a DVD player can throw at it.

Marlan - You didn't mention if you'd tried switching positions of the two speakers - move the one currently in position A to where the other one is, and vice verse, and see if the db difference follows the speaker. I don't know if the surrounding acoustics would cause 12db of variation, but the surroundings can have a large affect on perceived volume at the listening position. As for a matching center, the correct match would be an Academy.

Thanks for the correction - option 2 would use MPCM (Multi-channel PCM) over HDMI, and your receiver must be able to process MPCM via an HDMI connection. The HD audio doesn't have to be decoded at the player, if your receiver supports HDMI 1.3 and can decode HD audio received via that connection. More info here: http://hdmi.org/learningcenter/faq.aspx#q2