Deang

With the RP-3's I would definitely go for a nice Scott 299a or 299b -- or if the budget is tight, I think it would be hard to beat the new Creek. I think it comes in at less than $500. When funds permit -- I may very well end up with one of these myself. The previous model can be picked up used for around $350. It ain't as pretty though.

"...but if I'm going to start upgrading I figured I should start at the source." Uh, you just did that by putting in the highly regarded Rega -- and you can still hear the grain and hash. The problem is not your source -- it's your freaking cheap *** piece of crap receiver. Whoops, time to up my meds.

Imperialistic Heritage Dog.

O.K., you still have the driver movement but no pop -- is that right? If you were leaking DC, or had a blown cap -- I think you would see something more serious that what you are seeing. I think it's very possible for a driver to move a little on start up. How does it sound?

Maybe while you were moving the stuff around you got a static buildup. Have you powered it off and back on since it happened? If everything sounds O.K. it probably is.

I don't think anyone is going to flame you. There are several here that do what you are doing and love it. Is there anyway you can get your computer on a different receptacle? If not, you might just be better off never turning off the computer, or turning off the audio gear before you shut it down.

"I'm running a pair of Klipsch RP-3s through a Harmon Kardon HK3370 Receiver." A $260 receiver is probably not the best thing to use on a pair of RP-3's. Sell the Planet, sell the 3370, keep the Sony you have and buy a nice Creek integrated or something. To get rid of the rest of grain you need to upgrade the crossovers in the RP-3's.

Was there a nice hummmm to go along with that 'pop'? Sounds like you lost a cap.

Instead of worrying about the size of your cable you should be trying to figure out how to get your computer off of the same circuit as your system. At any rate, with your big solid state stuff you should be running at least 12 gauge if the speakers are more than 8 feet apart.

Bias is drifting for at least an hour before the amps stablize? You started a rebuild on a set of amps not knowing the condition of the tubes? You didn't have them tested? How can you expect to test the amps if you don't know condition of the tubes? You haven't checked all of the voltage points. Now I don't know jack about working on amps, but I know enough to know that no one should be making SWAG's regarding any problem until you have at least done this. You also strapped the amps in triode -- but never had them running correctly with the original design. I would leave the damn things unplugged until you either get new tubes, or get the ones you have tested. I think you need to start over and re-check every step. Check all of your voltage points, and all of your soldering with a multimeter. It's probably not a bad idea to check the rest of soldering as well -- after all, what do you really know about the history of these amps? You also need to check your phasing. When I had the AE-3 DJH, it was designed with one less stage going to the outputs, and to get proper phasing, plus and minus had to be reversed at the amps binding posts.

10 watts huh? Hmmm...just enough to run my tweeters

Klipschorns

Craig, What about large value NOS electrolytics that have been sitting on the shelf for decade or so -- should they be brought up on a variac before use? I don't think I can go along with the tube sweet spot thing. Yeah, I'm an expert. Seriously though -- The average plate dissipation goes up with audio output -- the sweetest spot is the one with the least distortion. In other words -- less distortion at 20 watts with a 50 watt amp than there is with 20 watts on a 30 watt amp. My guess is that those big Heritage horns just can't handle the full bandwidth of a good Ultra-linear amp without yanking the ears off.

I love my amps I love my amps I love my amps I love my amps Now go away Sunny -- no more taunting.

If you don't mind me asking -- where did you get the "slightly used" Telefunkens? Since they are both "12AX7s" -- they should spec out the same as far as gain. One should not be "louder than the other." What you are describing is the sound of a tube on it's down swing.

The two most dynamic speakers in the Klipsch lines are the Reference RB-5 and the LaScala. Food for thought if you place a high value on dynamics and have limited space. With your musical tastes, either a set of Heresy I's or RB-5's would work fine. If you go with the Heresies, You want the older ones. Either of these speakers, raised up, and placed near corners and angled into the listening room will give you plenty of bass. I actually prefer the Heresies over the Cornwall -- I think they have more coherency. Box me into a corner -- and I'm taking the RB-5s. Give me more money and it's the RB-75's.

I think you low watt guys are nuts -- but you're still my favorite people I bet those do sound awfully sweet on those K-horns -- now Sunny, all you need is some Chevelle to really torture test those amps -- right Craig? I think Craig's LaScalas are still tying to recover -- as well as his ears.

I refuse to believe it sounds better than that beautiful amp you built and posted about here a year ago. Certainly a different presentation -- but not "better". Is it?

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Don, I use the M1

Hee hee -- I'm better now -- I just needed a good crap.

No. Those are different tubes, and not interchangeable.

I was thinking the same thing -- an issue with placement. Do put your ear to that thing and make sure the horn is working. It ure shouldn't sound worse with it on than off.