Deang

4500Hz. Two primary reasons for that. Roy doesn’t believe a driver should have to do anything it wasn’t designed to do. The single port phase plug isn’t giving you 6kHz without the collapsing verticals of the K-400, and if you’ve seen the published response in the Dope from Hope, it’s pretty rough. The other reason is for a smoother power response, you want the polars at the crossover to match.

Only the engineering samples were “hotter”. When the production samples showed up, they weren’t. Frequency response is not identical, but sensitivity is. A two port phase plug K-55-V was used to design the AK network. Compare AK to AK-3 (schematic). I roll AK-2 users back to the AK, since the low pass cap is the same, and the high pass section is the same as the AK-3. Use the AK, AK-3, AL-3, AB-2 with any 2 port phase plug variant, including John Allen’s driver.

Use them as cabinets to practice on. I’m sure there are a lot of youtube videos on this. All I see are character marks.

I would remove a few non-relevant posts and pin it.

Way at the top, I asked that you send me a PM or email. 33uF is roughly 600Hz, which at least gets you above the Fc of the horn. You can buy them any place that sells capacitors. If you want the same type capacitor, just read the label. The 2.5mH is the same value the Type B uses, so you know it's occupying some of that same space around 600Hz. The Universal isn't as "universal" as everyone thinks it is. It was designed to be used with the K-55 and K-400/K-500. It was called "universal" because it could be used in the Klipschorn, La Scala, and Belle Klipsch. The K-400 has an Fc that is almost a full octave below the crossover point (280Hz). It can be tweaked to be used in the Cornwall or Heresy. It wasn't designed to support any and all driver/horn combinations. Kevin, and some others can get away with it because they are using larger horns that have a lower Fc in combination with something like the BMS or B&C DCM50 that are designed to go low. ZXPC provides no real useable data on that horn. Without measuring, there is simply no way of knowing what is going on with that network/horn/driver combination. 33uF will probably prevent the diaphragm from hitting the phase plug, but as far frequency response, distortion, etc., - who knows.

I don’t know enough about titanium diaphragms to be able to tell you at what point it becomes unhappy with you. If it was my set up, I would probably change the 47uF capacitors to 33uF and not drive the system to obscene levels.

Need the Fc.

That place sells all kinds of horns. Please send me a link to the horn you are using. You are probably fine.

The parts are all crooked. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ What horn are you using? Did Kevin teach you how to readjust the autoformer? Send me a PM, or email at dgwescott@gmail.com Thanks, Dean

Nm

We’ve done that many times, but the data is scattered everywhere. I have some posts about capacitors that I copied to my page. One of them is pinned. I don’t think anyone is really interested in another capacitor thread, especially me. https://www.facebook.com/deangcrossovers Autoformer tests by @mboxlershow that the stock units provide parallel inductance which produce a 12dB/octave rolloff. I sent Mike 3636 autoformers, and they do not measure the same - because the inductance is too high. Later, Klipsch used inductors in parallel with the autformers to maintain that result. So, use any of the stated values from the schematics, and of course those networks will be wrong as well. Some of @mboxlerwork is on AK. I can’t remember what thread it’s in over here. Different part values just screws up the filter response. It’s only an “upgrade” if you think it is - but the math would disagree.

Nm

I was going to ask about the serial numbers - how far apart are they?

Hours on the phone with Al, Bob, DJK, Warren and Max Potter. Many posts from Gil, and many others. I’m mathematically declined, so the books don’t always help me.

In-network impedance plots for the Klipschorn, La Scala, Cornwall, and Heresy. What matters is the impedance at the crossover point. This is derived by combining the driver response, in the box, with the network - which is massaged until you get the acoustic response you want. You will not be able to make any sense out of any of this using any of the online calculators, which don’t account for the reactance between the parts, or the out of network acoustic response.

You go to a third party vendor when OEM parts and sevices are not available. Since OEM parts and services ARE available, why not use them? Jim and me are a little more expensive, but we should be - we’re using authentic parts. None of the competing networks meet factory spec. They sell three versions and NONE of them are right. An amazing accomplishment! Yes, Klipsch has put their foot down on allowing their platform to be used to promote competing businesses, and in some cases - businesses that wouldn’t have existed had they not helped themselves to Klipsch IP. I am over at AK quite a bit, and I find it ironic that after all of the weeping and gnashing of teeth from the Klipsch collective because of the changes here - there are only like four or five people over there, discussing less than a handful of modifications, which have already been discussed here ad nauseum for a decade.

Ha! Those used to be mine. I sold them to @Frzninvt Modified “AA”. A 2 and a 6. The large air core is a .40mH in series with the K-55. The wiring is imbecilic. I would love to redo it (no charge).

I would warn a troll once and then ban them. These people can have their “fun” somewhere else. I have no idea why anyone would want to listen to somebody pontificate about a Klipsch product they have zero experience with. Calling PWK a charlatan was pretty much it for me.

@carewser Bye.

JEM sells capacitor kits to those who want to DIY. I repair, recap, and build. I maintain my own Klipsch OEM inventory of parts. Some pictures of the networks would be helpful. You might consider leaving them intact, and just letting me build some replacements. Thanks, Dean

I am tempted to buy a pair just out of spite.

I reported him for hate speech, lol.

You pick up a lot of room gain near walls and corners. So yeah, plenty deep enough for most music, and you get life-like transients. Good sub(s) are a must for pretty much any loudspeaker if you’re “a bass hound”.

It’s from the pro line right? I wouldnt expect a Heritage/consumer finish on them.

According to Trey, a K-28 will work too, and will give the bottom a bit of a bump.