Wardsweb

Tragic

The SST Ampzilla 2000 amps and the Shanling CD-T1500 have moved into another system with Quad 2905 speakers.

2- Channel Journey 2003 - DIY pre, DIY 2A3 stereo amp, Shanling CD-T100 CDP, Custom Altec A7 VOTT speakers. 2007 - Odyssey Tempest pre, Shanling SP-80 EL34 amps, Shanling CD-T100 CDP, Clearaudio Champion II, DIY speakers 2009 - McIntosh C36 pre, Shanling SP-80 EL34 amps, Shanling CD-T100 CDP, Clearaudio Champion II, DIY speakers 2010 - McIntosh C36 pre, Shanling SP-80 EL34 amps, Shanling CD-T1500 SACD, Juicy Music Tercel Phono, Clearaudio Champion II, DIY speakers 2013 - McIntosh C36 pre, Shanling SP-80 EL34 amps, Shanling CD-T1500 SACD, Musical Fidelity M1 Phono, Clearaudio Champion II, DIY speakers 2018 - Sonic Euphoria pre, ASL AQ1006 DT 845 amps, Shanling CD-T1500 SACD, Lounge phono pre, Auralic Aries mini, Tascam BR-20, Clearaudio Champion II, Maplenoll TT, DIY speakers, 2 Gallo subs 2020 - DIY 6H30 pre, ASL AQ1006 DT 845 amps, Auralic Altair Dac/Server, Clearaudio Champion II, DIY speakers, 2 Gallo subs

My 2-channel hasn't had as many yearly changes.

Yes the 110" screen and Panasonic projector are still in operation for movies.

My latest is the best, as it is 20 years in the making of swapping pieces and looking for the right synergy. Each system had its merits and faults. I remember each one and loved going down memory lane looking at each. I will always have a soft spot for Martin Logan electrostats.

Now you're making me think and remember. Not as easy as it used to be. Left to Right, Top to Bottom 2002 - Carver TFM-35 driving Martin Logan CLS, I think the TV was 20" 2003 - Carver TFM-35/A500x/A750x amps Martin Logan CLS with McCauley 6174 subs, TV 27" Sony CRT (heavy) 2004 - Carver A500x and A750x amps Martin Logan CLS and JBL C38, BAssMaxx B1 horn subs, Sony 27" 2005 - Shanling SP-80 monoblock tube amps, Martin Logan CLS, TV Panasonic 36" 2006 - Carver Silvet 7t amps Martin Logan CLS, TV 42" plasma 2007 - SST Ampzilla 2000 amps Martin Logan CLS, 2 Carver subs, TV Samsung 55" 2009 - SST Ampzilla 2000 amps Martin Logan Prodigy, Danley DTS-10 sub, TV Samsung 55" 2010 - SST Ampzilla 2000 amps Klipsch Jubilee, Danley DTS-10 sub, TV Samsung 55" 2011 - SST Ampzilla 2000 amps Klipsch Jubilee, Danley DTS-10 sub, TV Samsung 55" 2012 - SST Ampzilla 2000 / LM3875 amps Klipsch Jubilee, Danley DTS-10 sub, TV Samsung 55" 2013 - SST Ampzilla 2000 / DIY LM3886 amps Klipsch Jubilee, Danley DTS-10 sub, TV Samsung 55" 2014 - SST Ampzilla 2000 / ASL Wave 8 amps Klipsch Jubilee, Danley DTS-10 sub, TV Samsung 65" 2020 - Behringer NU6000 / DIY EL34 amps Klipsch Jubilee, Danley DTS-10 sub, TV Samsung 75"

Audio is a journey. It evolves over time. Here is my stereo system turned home theater staring in 2002 and ending in 2020.

Buying an amp, kit or otherwise, there are a few questions. What speakers are you going to drive with it? What is there efficiency rating? This will determine how much power you need. High efficiency speakers only need a few watts, so SET amps with tubes like 2A3, 300B, 45, etc are fine. If you need more power, you are looking at push pull configurations with EL34, KT88, 6550, 6L6, etc. Then there are point to point kits for people who don't know electronics, like Bottlehead. There are PCB based kits that are more just solder the parts on the boards. There are point to point kits that require you can read a schematic and know a base level of electronics. No true one size fits all. You decide your wants, needs and skill level.

I agree with the people posting that it depends on what ohms your speakers are. If they are 4 ohms, you need to wire them in series, so the amp will see 8 ohms. If the speakers are 8 ohms, then wire in parallel. Then the amp will see 4 ohms. Unless you have an amp capable of driving a 2 ohm load, I would not wire 4 ohms speakers in parallel. Otherwise you will hurt the amp.

Note the speakers are wired in parallel and out of phase. They are not wired in series.

These have to run out of phase, so they work together, in the same direction. I will post the instruction from the factory manual, when I get home this evening.

Changed up some of the electronics in the home theater today. Now running a Diva Seduction 2A3 on the horns and a Behringer NU6000 on the bass bins. TV is now a 75" Samsung.

From the instructions.

It did come with some 1/2" foam.

Yes this was one of the original kits they sold.

Wow, that is some impressive work. Kudo's to you sir. I love my DTS10. Used with a set of Juliblee's, my home theater rocks! Here is a picture during assembly.

You have two options for angled corners; cut pieces or veneer softeners. For cut, you glue the large surface and trim to the angled edge. Glue a new piece to the angled edge and trim it to the first piece already glued down. If you want the grain to match, cut the two pieces from the same sheet of veneer. For softener, use a veneer softener like https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Super-Soft-2-Veneer-Softener-Conditioner.html Google for options. Use as instructed and glue the large piece in place and roll the beveled edge over and glue in place. You may use head lock glue, clamp or vacuum bag for the process.

Go to Amazon and search anti-vibration pad. Lots of sizes, materials and configurations.

Reminds me of an old Hee-Haw line. If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all. Gloom, dispair and agony on me.

AC working overtime with this Texas heat. About 102 with a heat index of 106. Time to hit the pool.

I had to turn down my sub while watching Alita: Battle Angel. That movie has some serious LFE. Looks great on my 110 projector screen.

Not always, but most of the time, I've got something in the works. I like keeping busy.

This wasn't a kit and there are no instructions. They company typically sells to manufacturers, who use these in production applications; like the Teac AX-501. The schematics are part of the PDF download. http://www.anaview.com/sites/default/files/PDS ALC0240-2300-I.pdf I used that to determine what I would need and then ordered from several sources here and in China. I assembled them over a few weekends. I wasn't on any time constraint and I am very meticulous with my builds and that takes longer.

The company typically sells to manufacturers, who use these in production applications; like the Teac AX-501. The schematics are part of the PDF download. http://www.anaview.com/sites/default/files/PDS ALC0240-2300-I.pdf