mikebse2a3

Maron you definitly shouldn't feel embarresed if you allowed others to help in this project!!! There has been much speculation and misinformation about how and why PWK did things. Since you have some information in his own words then it is invaluable to those who want to understand the how and why of all that PWK accomplished. To preserve and share this information would be one of the most important things members of this forum could be involved in. I would also incourage others who have similar information to consider sharing it before it might be lost forever. Maron it would be an honor to be a part of this project if need be in any form of help that you need to make this happen!!! Mike[]

meagain I know what you mean about remote volume control since many songs on even the same CD needs to be adjusted for the most realistic sound. I have used the Creek OBH 10 for many years and it is a very good when used properly (ie: that the source has good drive ability and the cables to the amp are kept reasonably short and the Amp has a reasonably sensitive input drive level.) I now use the Creek for Remote Volume Control of my center channel Amp/Belle Klipsch. mike[]

Gil Said: One final experiment would be to just run the amp without any input connections. If the signal can still be heard. I suspect the signal is getting in through the speaker wires. -------------------------------------------------------- Gil has given you some good advise but I would suggest one thing different. Instead of leaving inputs open and testing I would suggest using an RCA type shorting plug which is simply an RCA Plug with a wire connected between the center pin and outer section of the plug.(you could also use an old Interconnect cable by cutting it off close to one end and twisting or soldering the wires together. This will keep any noise from an open input from being a problem during your trouble shooting and you could also use it on any open inputs that your not using in case the RF noise is being picked up through any of the unused open inputs in your system. Start by using the shorting plug on the input of the amplifier (make sure the amp is off before hooking or unhooking any input connections) and if things are quite then work your way back through the system till you learn where the RF interference is entering into your system. Another question: Is the interference in both left and right channels? I use to own a Hafler DH110 preamp and I would get some RF interference ( My Grandfather talking on his CB Radio) in one channel. When I contacted Hafler about this they sent a fix which consisted of cutting a ground trace and installing a small capacitor to eliminate the problem. Anyway like Gil suggested the first thing is to find where the noise is being introduced. mike[]

Thanks for the link Bennyboy! mike[]

JBryan I really like the look of your Horn system in your Avatar. Maybe when you have the time you could post more pictures and descriptions of the system? or if you already have can you point me to any previous post on them? Thanks mike[]

Coytee as far as protecting the speaker's finish I've had glass cut to size to protect the tops of the speakers from objects(especially drinks) being set on top of them and it would help to distribute the weight of an object across the whole top. mike[]

mike[]

The K55-V is Alnico The Woofer and Tweeter are Ceramic mike[]

Just an Idea Instead of just putting the Pre-amp in Mono it might be a good idea to actually use a "Y" connector to split just one channel from the Pre-Amp just in case there is a difference in the Pre-Amp gain stages or if "Y" connector isn't possible then use just one channel as the Reference to drive each channel of the Amplifier. mike[]

Is this the one your bidding on? If so it still has over 5Hrs to go. Watch out for second chance offers. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5856036363&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:US:1 mike[]

Thanks BEC that worked great! mike[]

Computers [:@] BEC I've tried Paint Shop also and No Luck I also use XP Guys thanks for the suggestions. mike[]

Most all pictures posted on the forum I can open with Adobe Photoshop Elements but sometimes when I try to open a file like this one of BEC's Picture using Adobe Photoshop Elements it can't and shows the file to have an "unknown or invalid JPEG marker type is found" Does anyone know why I'm getting this message? Thanks for any help! Mike[]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5855217904&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:US:1 Here is an old Khorn with a Stephens Woofer for anyone interested. mike[]

Hi DizRotus It is most likely the natural side panel resonance because of the fact that it is such a large area with no bracing. Many years ago I owned a pair and if I Tapped the side panel toward the middle of the front of the side panel mine would sound like a cracked baseball bat. I like you at first thought it was some plywood failure but eventually realised it was just a side panel resonance. So I spoke with Klipsch about it. Klipsch is aware that the La Scalas side panels can do this but because of production issues(bracing because of space variances between the doghouse and side panel consistancy in production) and for cosmetic reasons they accepted it. Anyway if this is your problem and you don't mind the looks of the bracing between the doghouse and sidepanel that would be your best solution. mike[]

Bob thanks for the information. I assume you are describing the 2mfd caps in the Tweeter circuit? mike[]

Hi BEC I'm curious because I've not seen you mentioning any testing of the AK-2 and AK-3 network's capacitors. Since these capacitors are made from different materials than the Oil Types used in the A and AA Networks have you found these capacitors showing high ESR from age like the Oil Types? mike[]

DeanG wrote: Mike's post echos my feelings, but there is a part of me that feels like Dana. I guess if I were going to say something negative -- it would be that the "proper" tribute would have been the release of the Jubilee. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yes Dean If it sounds as good as people have said then I do wish they would have offered it if for no other reason than as a tribute to PWK! mike

D-man wrote: {edit} I know it's a little snotty, but this isn't a fan club - or is it? I was very dissappointed with the appearance of the 60th aniv. Khorn. Anybody applauding that at $11K is unworthy of serious comment, IMO. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- To begin with my post wasn't about the looks of the 60th Anniversary Khorn. To each his own here. It was a comment and well deserved acknowledgement of Klipsch and the People who makeup the Klipsch Company and their efforts for us and the effort to support the Heritage Line! Look they have invested alot of time and money I'm sure to roll out the updated Heritage Line and whether you like the 60th anniversary Khorn or not doesn't change the fact that this effort put forth on the updated Heritage Line deserves to be recognized! D-man, Even though Klipsch isn't perfect : "You Bet I'm A Fan Of Klipsch!" What other speaker company do you know still producing and supporting speakers who's heritage goes back up to 60 YEARS! ? mike

D-man and edwin what can I say? I have noticed in the last few months how much Klipsch and its People do for the people on this forum(yearly pilgrimages for example and if anyone has talked to Tech Support and how they will go out of their way to help for example I called Tech Support and spoke with Stephen Philips late one evening about the older crossovers and as we were finishing talking I realised he had stayed well past his quitting time.). People have talked of the support for the Heritage Line wasn't what it should be But I say these days business is hard and the going mentality is Older Technology isn't good and alot of companies give in to the lets introduce something new to keep sales up whether its really an improvement. Klipsch is working to hold onto the Heritage Line and I honestly don't think many companies do that these days. I've owned Klipsch since 1987 and have had the privilage of a tour of the Hope Factory twice in the early 1990s. Back then I got to know Ginney Sanders and Jim Hunter also who personelly helped me when I had some problems with some La Scalas I had bought and they tried to arrange a meeting with PWK on one of those tours I was given but unfortunatley I just missed him. ALSO for those that will understand this after years of wanting and finally getting my 1979 Khorns(bought in 1990) and can appreciate the Genius of PWK's Design, Build Quality, Craftmanship and The letters stamped U.S.A. on the back of them then yes I do take pride in owning such a High Quality Product both then and now. So again I will say Thanks to Klipsch for being the kind of company with the kind of people that will treat a customer such as me so well over so many years!!! mike[]

Wow! a 60th Anniversary Klipschorn, Original Klipschorn, Cornwall III, Heresy III, and La Scala II. I just want to say how proud I am to own my Klipschorns and Belle Klipsch. MOST OF ALL How PROUD I am of all at Klipsch who have shown such dedication to PWK, The Heritage Speaker Line and this Forum a Very Special Thanks! I wish Klipsch the BEST with all the efforts you have shown in the last year to HOLD ON TO IT"S HERITAGE mike[{]

Meagain one thing you might want to check just for a reference. Run your test say 3 times on your left speaker(for example) to see just how repeatable your test results are. Alot of test signals(like white or pink noise on a CD) vary slightly over time and depending on when you take your reading you will see some variation. If this is happening to you then the best you can do is take several test and average the results. Also pink noise is one of the most common to use with an RTA. Another question: Are you sending a test signal from A CD using seperate left and right outputs for your test signal? If so you might be better off using only one channel to feed the test signals to your left and right speakers so that you eliminate any variation in the Test CD,CD player,Receiver, ETC..... Meagain you can take a speaker that measures flat say within +/- 3db and as soon as you install it in a room you could easily see variations of up to 15db. The best suggestion is to swap left and right speakers and listen as well as testing is a good one also to help see any real variation due to the room response and to decide if one speaker really sounds different from the other. As others have said also trying to hear a difference between left and right speakers if you use a stereo source is about impossible and should really be done with a mono signal. mike[]

Which 2A3 do I like the best would be hard to answer since I believe the Amps Design could easily change my preferences as well as the system its used in. For example the AES SE-1 with the 6SL7 input/driver tube which has a low sensitivity really needs a good pre-amp to get the best sound(the bass and drive are really improved) and then it really comes alive and in this case it works very good in a Khorn system because the gain and noise floor are a great match for the Khorn where sometimes trying to use a pre-amp with a high sensitivity amp causes noise issues in a Khorn system. I have Sovtek in my Cary Cad 2A3i push/pull integrated Amp and I have been very pleased. The bass and vocals are very good. I also have a modified Audio Electronic Supply AES SE-1 single ended amp with RCA dual plates which I like especially for vocals but when I get a chance I need to try the Sovtek 2A3 in it. My opinion is the Sovtek is hard to beat for the price/performance. I hope to try some mesh plates in the future. mike

Got It! Thanks Trey For The Information. mike[]

Sounds like a good idea, but it's a little tight under there. Under multi-stage cans at www.tubesandmore.com they have JJ Telsa surface mount cans at 100uf/100uf at 500vdc versus what's in there now on C9 and C10 which are single stage 100uf/at 450vdc. Could I use these cans and simply wire one 100uf stage? and would the 500 vdc rating affect anything? This would give me sufficient room underneath to wire in the 100/10 power cap on C9. thebes I'm not sure I understand clearly what your asking here. The main thing I want to tell you is C9 must be insulated if its used as above the chassis as the orignal otherwise you would have a 325volt shock hazard!!! C9 must be totally isolated from ground!!! and if you used a 2 section one in its place both sections negatives would be common so only one section (EDIT: actually both section can be wired in parallel as Rick Suggested below but no section of the C9 can be used in place of any section of C10 or C11) could be used to preserve its isolation from ground and its outside case MUST BE INSULATED!!! Did you mean that you would only use one section of the new capacitors? If thats the case that would be fine. If wire lengths will permit you could use one of these new 2 section 100/100 filters in place of C10 and C11A(since both these have their negatives tied to their cases and to ground) and then wire in a single 10mfd 400v cap in place of C11B. The 500vdc will work in place of the 450vdc filters. thebes you can go up but not down in voltage ratings. -------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm sure it's hard to tell from the pictures but on both amps C9( is wired in the same way, so I wondering if it's still in the circuit since one wire (the 10mfd side) goes to the 7247 tube and the 100mfd side goes to the standby controler (which uses a shorting plug on top of the amp to bypass the controller). thebes the way I read the diagram That is the filter marked (C11A and C11B which is located next to the Audio Output Transformer) and not (C9 which is physically located in the middle of the three filters) Which leads me another question are all these various caps omnidirectional or do they have plus and minus side to pay attention to so they are not wired up the wrong way? May sound silly but I really don't know. thebes good question and yes the electrolytics power supply capacitors are directional and most common to be found is the negative side is the case of the Can of the filter with the positive as the insulated lugs comining out the bottoms of the filter. ----------------------------------------- That's been driving me crazy to. Because six of the eight resistors in both amps are the 15ohm/2 watt and 2 are 15ohm 1 wattt so I'm wondering if the factory simply made an error on the schematic or this was some sort of common mod for these things, since the soldering on most of these looks to be original. The modded one, by the way, runs fine. A little hum and static on startup and dead quiet after a minute or so. I've run in for 2 or 3 hours so far with no problems, excesssive heating or anything else, so I'm thinking the 15 ohm's should stay. And yes all of them do go to Pin 3. Regarding biasing your advice and recommenations are taken to heart. I think I may be stretching my skill levels too far re bias mods, so I think I'll just set the pot about half-way, make sure the tube plates aren't glowing, and take it to a local tech for biasing once the tube have burnt in a bit. I'll also get matched tubes. The modded one is using EH's so I'll stick with that. I can always roll something else in down the road. thebes (aka Marty) I agree the 15 ohms/ 2 watt could have been a factory change at some point and should be fine. As far as the biasing what you have is a balancing control which will allow you to get the least noise(HUM) and balance the current some between the push/pull section (V2/V3 and V4/V5) of the output stage. With no music signal playing you can measure the voltage drop between the center tap(negative lead of the meter set on DC of the balance control and alternating the Meter's (+) lead between bot side lugs of the control till they measure as close to the same voltage as possible. You should also hear the least hum through the speakers when the balance control is adjusted at its best position. thebes your welcome to e-mail me(put thebes in subject line so I want accidently delete it) and I can give you a phone number or give me yours and I can use my cell for free long distance after certain hours if that might help you to work on this project mike: aka one of the good mikes[]