mikebse2a3
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Posts posted by mikebse2a3
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17 hours ago, The Dude said:
Not meaning to get off track, but that is one thing that always drew me to active crossover, solely based on the idea that it may perform well in testing environments, but may not always be ideal for all home environments. That being said, unless you truly understand how to tweak these systems, this can be cumbersome.
I agree that there is a learning curve with Active DSP (which like any powerful tool can be used for good or bad) and that is part of what has always drawn me into this hobby was that I enjoy the challenges of learning and experiencing new things. While I like reading and learning from others the real fun and understanding comes from actually experiencing something myself. The active DSP approach is an awesome tool that gives me a playground that helps me understand how we hear and experience sounds.
miketn 🙂
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4 minutes ago, mark1101 said:
I may be wrong but it looked like the cinema 3-way PC board version. If this is what it is then it was probably designed for behind the screen.
On my 3-way underground Jubs I have the 2-way passive PC board version for just the 402/510 and that is what it is. I never used it so I don't know how it sounds.
Mark….. I believe you are probably correct as far as the behind the screen tuning.
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2 hours ago, babadono said:
Another member is selling a pair of 3 way Jubilees(clone bass bin) and he says it has a Klipsch built 3 way passive crossover. How are all the PEQ filters and time alignment of drivers addressed in a passive crossover?
Roy would have to chime in here for accurate information about the cinema systems mono-operation with passive crossovers.
I believe there will be “real limitations (even though it can still sound very good)” in a Passive Network System (to achieve the mono-amp operation) versus an Active DSP Crossover System when it comes to optimizing the Loudspeaker as well as the System/Room Optimization. I’ve heard Roy say in the past that even some of the DSP Program recommendations are a starting point for them to then fine tune the loudspeaker/room installation.
Cinema Brochure (2016)
KPT-Jubilee 535-B (Bi-Amp) Data Sheet
KPT-JUBILEE535-B-Data-Sheet-v05.pdf
miketn
Page 7 from the brochure talking about passive options for some of the systems.
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On 4/24/2023 at 8:49 PM, Idontknow said:
I've always known that it's out of the signal path, but there is a pretty overwhelming amount of reviews and claims that rectifiers can change sound.
The “Signal” is the Power Supply being modulated and can only be as good as the power supply.
Even if we can’t measure it but we repeatedly hear the difference then most likely we haven’t measured all thats audible IMHO.
miketn🙂
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12 hours ago, tube fanatic said:
Yes, if we are talking about the filter section of a power supply I would agree with you.
Hey Maynard I guess we agree to a degree… 😄
I consider all the electrical components of the power supply to have the potential to affect the sound including the Power Transformer, Rectifiers and Capacitors.
The (Power Transformer + Rectifiers) are in parallel with the (Power Supply B+ Capacitors) as well as the (Audio Output Transformer + Tube + Bias Resistor/Capacitor) and thus the quality of the Output Signal will be a reflection of all the components in the power supply. I have replaced the standard silicon diodes often used in amplifiers with Hexfreds for example (the standard silicon rectifiers turning off and on can create noise that can be audible in my experience) which resulted in an impression of increased clarity and removal of some higher frequency edginess to the sound.
miketn 🙂
I’ve done a simplified drawing of the “Little Sweetie” for a different visual impression to hopefully show why I would consider the Quality/Characteristics of the rectifiers as well as all of the power supply electrical components will play a part in the resulting sound of an amplifier.
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4 hours ago, tube fanatic said:
A rectifier is not in the signal path. Its job is to provide the circuit with the voltage required for the tubes to operate within their design parameters.
I would disagree since it is the power supply(which obviously includes the rectifier) that we are modulating (regardless of the amplifier’s design type) and the power supply performance is an important part of the quality of the amplifiers output signal.
miketn🙂
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On 4/6/2023 at 1:35 PM, jwc said:
Mike what 2A3 tube amp did you have runnin the top end of your jubilees over 15 years ago in the Hope lab? And curious what was the low end amp?
Cary CAD-2A3i push/pull amp (with choke and bias modifications I addded) for the Jub LF
Audio Electronic Supply AES SE-1 with 2A3 tubes (I built from a Kit with slight modifications I implemented) for the K402 HF
(This was Cary’s Kit Division back in the early days)
These amps setup along with the:
Musical Fidelity CD-Pre24
EV DX38
was what you listened to in the Hope Lab in 2007.
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51 minutes ago, rigma said:
Looking good. I am sure they sound wonderful. I know they do as I have heard them several times before.😜
Thanks my friend 🙂
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I enjoyed your video…… well done 👍
ST35 is my favorite Dynaco….
The 6BQ5 and 7189 based amplifiers (provided they have high quality output transformer) offer some of the best sound reproduction and imaging that I ever experienced on my Klipschorns.
miketn
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@Idontknow Yes….Thanks for sharing the video…
The Heritage Jubilee is the greatest tribute I could imagine for PWK due to the Sound Reproduction and Ground Breaking Engineering …!!!
Thanks Roy and Klipsch..…… miketn 🙂
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Blast from the past pictures…🙂
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Here are the CARY CAD-2A3-SE single ended mono amplifiers.
Man it’s been way to long….. I really like these with the LA Scala AL5-ME
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It’s been a few years since I have played with my CARY CAD-2A3-SE and CARY CAD-2A3i amplifiers so I performed a VARIAC and LIGHT BULB CURRENT LIMITER slow start just for precautions.
The La Scala AL5-ME and 2A3 amps are an extremely enjoyable combination IMHO.
miketn
Here is the CARY CAD-2A3i push/pull amplifier and slow start setup.
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@HotGlass Here are your pictures converted to JPG so they don’t have to be downloaded for viewing but will remove them if you don’t want them reposted just let me know.
GLWS 🙂
miketn
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10 hours ago, Emile said:
Sorry; this post is NOT about my Klipsch speakers
Have a strange problem that I have been trying to solve for months now
One of my pool lights went "out." Pulled the fixture and replaced the LED bulb. Nothing Thought it might be a transformer problem so replaced my (aging) electricals with a new (all-in-one timer/transformer) Intermatics box. Still NO GO on second light. The strange part is that I do measure 10.2V at the fixture, but nothing when I screw in the light bulb Even tried wires from the fixture directly to the bulb - NOTHING. And yes, bulb is fine - checked it with a 9V DC battery.
Appreciate any thoughts on this.
Many thanks, Emile
Run a Resistance Check on your positive wire and negative/ground wire for possible high resistance connection or break/corrosion..
miketn
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11 minutes ago, Shakeydeal said:
Methinks his time here is drawing to a close….
To disrespect PWK on the Klipsch Forum is about the most stupid action I’ve ever seen here….!!!
miketn
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1 hour ago, carewser said:
I think I do, Paul Klipsch successfully duped a bunch of people into spending mucho dineros on an inferior speaker when for similar money they could have had a much better sounding (albeit not as loud) speaker. Ironic given how Paul used to have a "bullshit" button he wore
Why are you even posting here except to TROLL
@Travis In Austin and @Chief bonehead check the BS from this “Fool”
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Happy Birthday PWK
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2 hours ago, MMurg said:
Yes, that's true. However, there is a about 20 dB gain difference across the frequency range of the HF settings from its lowest to highest points. it's just implemented as both cuts and boosts.
My point was that to say it needs a 20db of boost per the previous posts I copied is incorrect and should not be how someone looks at the requirements.
I corrected myself and it is a 17db window of adjustments with a maximum boost of +6db.
As I stated previously Chris’s settings includes a maximum boost of (+6db @ 18kHz) and a maximum cut of (-11db @ 600Hz).
miketn🙂
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5 hours ago, Marvel said:
Although you will still need about 20db boost, correct?
3 hours ago, MMurg said:Yes, the driver needs EQ for flat response on the K-402, like most any driver on a constant directivity horn. That amount of gain is only required up near 20 kHz. I mentioned the Chris A post earlier in this thread where PEQ settings can be found that would be a good starting point.
3 hours ago, OO1 said:pretty close to that , yes
Wrong 🙂
The maximum boost that Chris uses is (+6db @ 18kHz) the majority of the PEQ settings are used for reduction of up to (-11db @ 600Hz). Chris also shows -5db Gain Level for the Celestion/K402 channel.
So basically there is a 17db window of adjustment in Chris’s Xilica settings for the Celestion but only +6db of it is boost.
miketn
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5 hours ago, richieb said:
Being a big FW fan, as painful as it is, the F3 and F5 just don’t have that “something” the Torii has. So there’s that -
I’m 😲 and in utter disbelief…!!!!
Don’t let the F3 go till you see if that “something” last the test of time..!!!
😄 So which Decware Torii version do you own now..?
miketn
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1 hour ago, John Chi-town said:
You would think that Klipsch/Audiovox could finance this. Especially with the MSRP of the current Heritage line......
Please know that Klipsch/Audiovox has been and continues to be a major supporter of the Museum.
miketn
My 1977 LaScalas finally got their original Autoformers T2A, what a surprising reveal!
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Heinz I checked the driver wires which appear to be stranded tin coated and they appear to be slightly loose in the 18ga “stranded stripper slot” and tight in the 20ga “stranded stripper slot” so I would go with 18ga IMHO.
miketn