consistent

Agree, ported enclosures such as Cornwall will cause woofer overload below 25hz, if you pump more juice into the box than you ought too! The woofer's excursion moves dramatically but you don't hear anything...so careful!

Here are a couple of sites you can play with https://speakerwizard.co.uk/calcs/Crossover_Calc_v2.php and http://www.mh-audio.nl/Calculators/CalculateQ12db.html

Yes agree more watts but I would start to move them your from wall 12" at a time, try using golden ratio, you will ultimately find the sweet spot, less boom more kick! The room does play the biggest part in setting up any speaker, especially those big boys!

Probably cheaper to make the boxes at home and ship the parts...worked for me

Thanks Chris and others, some very interesting ideas coming through, thanks guys. I remember seeing a recent add for an open baffle speaker using the AMT centred around two open baffle 15” Eminence drivers. It was Pure Audio Project Trio...wonder how that would sound?

Update: I have been so impressed with the AMT mod with the Cornwall and with Chris's measurements and observations that I have built a new box (higher than my first) from 1" (25mm) MDF. Padding as per Klipsch design but no bracing (tried it and didn't like it). Still used Roger Floth method. Also did some 'what if' challenges to my current thinking on balancing the network. I have used 1st and 2nd order filters (according to the book) but decided to blend using calculators and response simulators because that's all I know. I don't go crazy or listen at crazy loud but let my ears be the best judge. In my journey I discovered, through my ears, a WOW moment . It didn't look too good on a graph but I tried it anyhow. Simply I used a 2nd order filter on the woofer and a 1st order on the AMT, taking advantage of its natural roll off at around 600hz. I ended up with 3.1mH/23uF on the woofer and 41.5uF for the tweeter which came from blending 39uf with 2.5uF as opposed to one single capacitor; work that out? What I ended up with was about 25% increase in detail, greater texture and harmony and a massive increase in more decisive front-to-back imagery. The AMT sits on top of the box and is about 4ft from the front wall and 3.4ft from the side walls. It sits about 6" back from the front of the woofer. I have lots of diffusion on the front wall and use lots of absorption on rear walls as the room is small. Chris A is correct stating that when using different order filters move the AMT backwards/forwards until you get what sounds best as an alignment. A LR 2nd order at 720hz is also a blast. Love to know what I have actually done from a technical point. cheers

Hi I have the RME ADI-2 DAC bought it earlier this year. What a bargain! It is detailed and some may not like the detail but after a few weeks of use it settles and becomes very musical and certainly one of the most accurate DAC's I have heard under $5k. I think the device works well with horns when it settles down, the EQ doesn't make a massive difference but can create subtle differences/nuances/enhancements when needed all the best

Box size is similar to all Cornwalls before the III BUT the crossovers are not! Yes they changed when the mid horns changed but there was something missing in the bottom end, after all the box is almost identical so there really should not be any perceivable difference. Change the crossover to allow the woofer to do what it did in other models and you will notice a difference. Cheers

If you were to buy, try and get the CT120 tweeter, streets ahead of the CT125, it is more revealing and dynamic. I build my own and you will be impressed with the Cornscala, once you live with it you wont want to return it! good luck

Hi I have the Crites woofer and the DE120 but a different mid and lens. I designed and tried many different filters (Butterworth, L-R, Bessel) and used my ears as the main judge. I settled with something very simple (1st order with woofer @ 500) and 2nd order for mid cross but then extended the mid out to its natural roll off (8,000) and then employed 2nd order for tweet. I ended up getting the detail I wanted as well as a 'sweeter' top end. I used an autoformer to ensure the mid was 'balanced' I got lucky all the best

I think you'll find that people including so called 'audiophiles' are re-experiencing horns, including the cheaper Klipsch models (600M an example). Many want that 'live experience' and are tired of the 'politeness' offered by most other manufacturers. You can still get that politeness with Klipsch, just don't turn it up so load...and you can spend more money on a better quality lower wattage amp...win/win

Klipsch was and still is more about the emotion of listening to as close to a live performance as possible...with as little distortion as possible. When you go to live concerts can you actual pick out the different instruments/notes played? With Klipsch you need to pay careful attention to the room and if you do you are rewarded by better sound depth imagery without limiting the great side to side imagery.

Agree with pzannucci the mid lets down the Cornwall today and in the past, no tweaking of the network will help that fact.

I also like the K77F but in the vertical position (not where it usually sits) but the DE120 is just a little less brutal on the ears...it's smoother and better than Bob's 125 (I had both). I think the biggest improvement you can make is getting rid of the 400 mid horn and going to a tractrix but that would require some mods to your crossover. Keep the K55 but let it do its job out to 6,000hz. The A55-G could be a great drop-in replacement. With a better mid horn you will get more detail and imagery of what's going on in the recording

Go for it! Audio is like drinking wine - we can all taste different things from the same bottle! 😉

I also have a 3way set up which uses a coil for the Crites woofer at @ -6db 500hz (1st order) then the Cheby for the mid-band and finally a LWR 2nd order for the tweeter @ 8000hz. I have purposely let the Altec 291K (with Le Cleac'h horn) run to its end response as the tweet takes over. I think AL K in his universal lets the K55 run out to about 6k. The tweet is the B & C DE120 that Bob Crites sells with Klipsch wave guide. I have used Bessel, Butterworth and Linkwitz-Riley 1st and 2nd orders but at this point the current set-up is the best for my room and my ears.

here's a site www.mh-audion.nl that should explain to you as well as provide x-over values

BTW I have just put together a 'Cheby' x-over for the box and AMT. I think Cheby's are used by AL K as they are a little steeper than the std 2nd Order class x-over. I do like what I hear, I seem to get more detail in the sweet spot but depending on your room you may need to pare back the woofer or the AMT a few db.

I certainly agree with 'room' interplay unless of course you have some cool electronics that pacifies room anomalies. I am still using old school techniques of room treatments and ears! But if you had a K-33 or Crites woofer can you do any better than current accepted box geometry/porting?

Hi Guys It appears that the Cornwall's internal box size sits at around 6.6 cu ft. I think the original was around 7.25 cu ft. My numbers assume that the panels used are 0.75" thick. So does size matter when deciding on bottom end response? I have seen a number of different sizes being used in developing the Cornscala. Bob Crites gets the 6.6 with his 22.5 x 22.5 x 22.5 internal measurement with nothing being added to the box, including the drivers. What size works best? Does using the 'golden ratio' work out better than a cube? You thoughts would be greatly appreciated. cheers

You demonstrate skills I wish I had!

cheers...I did the Floth method and the bottom end did tighten up and go deeper. It is important to choose a xover network to go with this approach, it's not easy

Bobby Crites has some good specs on volumes, seems as though there is some difference between boxes over the years. Guess it's about what goes inside the box and what does not! Then this will dictate how you can strengthen the box like Roger Floth suggests as do a few others. To match the AMT-1 I think the tighter the sound coming from the box the better the resolution between the two drivers. good luck

looking good,...what internal volume are you using and what ports will you try?

Hi Brian If you are loving them don't change 'em. There are many ideas that people have tried floating about this forum and only requires mods to the xover, just depends on what drivers you have in the box and how detailed, involved, big and luscious you want your sound. good luck