CECAA850

I had an RW12, it was the first component of my HT that I upgraded. From everything that I have read, the PB1 will dig much deeper with HT and hold it's own with music. I absolutely my Klipsch speakers but was disapointed with the RW-12. Carl.

If tech support hasn't responded in a couple of hours, they must be having some sort of problem. Usually their responses are more like IM's than e-mail. Rest assured that you are in extremely good hands with SVS. They won,t rest till they have gotten to the cause of your problem. As far as performance in your room, it looks like you have about 1344 cu.ft. (assuming 8' ceilings). Your ISD should have no problem pressurising that space. Properly set up, "underwhelmed" will quickly turn to "overwhelmed" or OMG! Carl

Firefighter, wait till everyone is out of the house and rent U-571. Crank it up. Awesome LFE. Give yourself enough time to straighten your pictures out on the walls before everyone gets back. It will however take a while for the grin stuck on your face to subside. . Carl

I wouldn't. If you do that then you will be getting surround information to the part of the speaker and front information to the other part. Carl

I'm not surprised in the least. Your favorable experience seems to be the rule, not the exception with SVS service. Glad all is well. How do you like the sub? Carl

A 7dB swing with no EQ is pretty darn good. When you measured, did you use the compensation chart? If so, I would leave well enough alone. Usually you can get to within 5 dB with an EQ and 2-3 dB with a BFD. I wish I had your room. Carl

Had to throw a "Mr. Obvious" line out. Have you checked speaker phase? Carl

Virtually any speaker can be calibrated so that it will not "overpower" your other speakers. Once everything is set up correctly you have other issues at hand. You use your center channel for approx. 70% of a movies sound track. IMO, the center channel and sub are the 2 most important speakers in a HT. I've used the RC35 with the RF-5's and I really noticed a difference. You can hear a large difference with pink noise when you set the system up as well as when you watch a movie. I know...... all reference speakers should work together, but....... If there is ANY way possible, make room for the RC7, you'll be happy you did. Or, you could get the RC35 and then upgrade to the RC7 so that you can appreciate how much better the 7 really is. Carl

I believe that the RF-35 is a front ported design. That being the case I would think it would be fine as long as you don't recess them. Carl

The RC-7 is a great match for the RF-5's. I had that set up before I went up to the RF-7's. As long as you calibrate all your speakers with an SPL meter, you'll be fine. If you can swing the RC-7 over the RC-35, go for it. There really is no comparison. Carl

Sounds like it's time for some movies! There it really shines. Open Range will have you looking outside for lightning, U-571 will "blow" you away and the Haunting will have you checking your foundation, Master and Commander is a LFE treat. The list goes on and on....... Have fun, Carl.

I would think that 10 subs in a 1,100 cu/ft room would lead to some serious cancellation.(?)

If SVS is recommending the PB2-ISD, then you must have a very large room. (HSU is recomending their largest box sub) Bear in mind that that particular SVS has 2 12" drivers as opposed to the HSU's 1 12" driver. Not a fair comparison in output. The PB2-ISD is said to be one of SVS's best performance/dollar sub. Carl

The way I did mine was to use the disc to calibrate my 3 front and 2 sides so that they were all within a dB of each other. I then removed the disc and used my receivers internal tones. I left the 5 speakers that I had just calibrated alone and matched the remaining 2 to the ones I had calibrated to the disc. You must use an SPL meter to do this correctly. Carl

It was designed by Dr. Hsu. It has virtually the same specs as one of the Hsu units, I believe the STF-3, but don't quote me on that. Carl.

Now I'm confused. Are you asking what to set the receiver speaker and sub selection to? If so, most people start with all speakers set to small, cross over to 80 Hz and LFE to sub only. You can tweak from there. Carl

I lied! The Outlaw monoblock amps are $299.00, not $199.00. Senility rears it's ugly head once again. Carl

I think that the Outlaw Audio 200w amps are about $200.00 apiece. X 3 would get you in around your price point and you'll have 3 new anps. I've read some good reviews on them. Carl

RF-5's and an SVS. nuff said

"Hardhitter" must be a misnomer.

No sub will overpower your surround speakers if it is calibrated correctly. You will need a disc such as Avia or DVE and a SPL meter to do the job correctly. It is a relatively cheap investment that you will use time and time again when you move your speakers or upgrade. Carl

I can't speak for the subs you have selected, but I have a similar speaker set up as you. My SVS is great for music, blends seamlessly and is absolutely awesome for HT. I think you'll find that most subs in your price range will blend well with your Reference speakers regardless of brand. You commented on wanting the best bang for your buck, which SVS can't be beat HOWEVER, shipping to Europe may make it cost prohibitive. Carl

Is there any reason that you haven't considered the RS-7's for surround speakers, or you only considering mono-pole speakers for your surrounds? The Reference series should all work together, but the 7's all the way around are hard to beat. As far as the "loudness" issue goes, as long as you use an SPL meter and a calibration disc, you shouldn't have a problem of one speaker overpowering another. Carl

Juba, you crack me up.

In your 2000-2500 cu. ft. room, a PB2-ISD is allmost overkill and it will save you several hundred dollars vs. the PB2+. Headroom in that size room should be a non issue with the ISD. Carl