yamahaSHO

I've tested it on a few occasions and it's been right at 10/1 each time.

I used to have fast Internet, but then I moved into the mountains. Supposedly they are bringing fiber up here, but for now I am stuck with 10Mbps/1Mbps. I'm not too upset as it handles our TV streaming and is under $30.

I have had a spare Klipsch emblem from one of my Dad's 1981 LaScala's that he removed probably 15 years ago when he refinished them. I spent some time and cleaned it up and will mount it to the base plate with some double-sided tape. It looks nearly new now. Before: After:

The SHO is shooting for 9's. On a wastegate pass he ran a 10.70. That was his medium boost setting which he was trying on track for the first time.

Only because he snapped an axle after out-60'ing the GT-R with a 1.5x.

This one on a car I recently tuned is a good bit bigger at 79 lbs/min (EFR 8374). Once he hits his 9 second passes (snapped an axles when he turned up the boost at the track), he going to their biggest turbo which will support 1000hp. ]

These turbo's look bigger than they actually are. It's a 56 lbs/min turbo, so roughly rated at 550hp. This is my second Borg Warner EFR turbo, the first one being on my STi. I like them because they have a good internal wastegate design, built-in bypass valve, built in electronic boost control solenoid, huge ceramic ball bearing cartridge (although this cartridge is not aluminum like the one on my STi), stainless exhaust housing, forged aluminum compressor wheel, and titanium exhaust wheel. They have good transient response, which is good for my track car.

My S2000 is going to get a whole lot faster.

Need STAGE2BRO!

I just saw this: I live in Denver. I *mostly* try to work on my own stuff, but I started tuning other people more often about 5 years a go to stay current. I actually made a trip to Atlanta last weekend to tune a 1995 Taurus SHO with an 12.5:1 compression motor running an EFR 8374 and E85. We are starting to really push the limits of the stock ECU using Binary Editor, so we kept it at low/medium boost, although I did make several passes on the dyno at 21 PSI. We hadn't had a chance to play with his stand alone boost controller, so the boost was really falling after peak. At 21 PSI tapering to 13 PSI, the car made 520whp/557wtq. It made 520whp from 4,500 RPM to 8,000 RPM. He plans to compete at an event this Sunday and the goal is 10's. Over winter, he's wiring in an AEM Infinity so we can have WAY more control and additional features as well as run 25 PSI. He made a run with a car today from a roll and said he was right next to the other car that ran 168mph in the half mile, and this was on his low boost setting. Video is supposedly to follow. The car ran mid 12's NA, 11.55 on a 100 shot, and 151mph in the half mile on the 100 shot. That said, here is the car after the dyno tuning: On the dyno: Last year on a 100 shot: And 1320 Video just made a video on it recently. I expect another when the car really starts showing at events with the turbo: More info on the car can be found at: https://www.facebook.com/Blueturdtaurus On the same weekend, another customer/friend of mine competed in one of the local roll race events, which are actually pretty fun: I ran him earlier in the year before moving with my S2000. I get pretty excited about this stuff.

Spent some time tuning a customer car on E85 his weekend. This is a car I tuned NA on E85 a couple years ago, which has a rebuilt engine with 12.5:1 compression. We made 300whp NA, 400whp with a 100-shot, and now have added a Borg Warner EFR 8374 turbo. Everyone kept telling us that we shouldn't boost on that compression, but this is why I love ethanol. Hell, we've even disconnected the knock sensor as the archaic tuning software we have to use won't let me adjust the knock sensor to ignore normal noises with the current setup. Ran into a good bit of problems with the car on the dyno and had to take time to fix. We also couldn't hold boost after peaking and ran out of time to figure out his new stand alone boost controller (but he's figured it out now and testing). At 20 PSI tapering to 13 at redline, it made 520whp/557wtq and because of the massive boost taper, it made 520whp from like 4,500 RPM to 8,000 RPM. Once the owner adjusts the wastegate duty cycles to maintain boost, I suspect it'll be around 600ish whp/ 570ish wtq. The next time he flies me out, I want to go for 700whp. With any luck, he'll be at the track this weekend running 10's in the 1/4 mile. 11 PSI run after the dyno 15 PSI run on the street, spinning all of 2nd and 3rd gear just past 115 mph, on drag radials.

You probably just need to remove the plugs on the back of the posts.

These would be pretty sweet. From the Craigslist ad, you're not far from me.

I might be interested in the center. How much shipped to 80403?

Traded in the big diesel truck for a 4x4 diesel Jeep... I still need it to tow the race car and need to be able to get out of my new driveway in winter at the house I just bought: I kept the speakers from my theater (minus the RF-62 center and the 2 SVS subs... Still have my Klipsch stuffed Sonosub) and will be working them into the living room as I don't want a dedicated theater again. I'm planning on removing the mantle over the fireplace and building a new one that will be mounted lower and also serve as a center channel. I picked up a Vizio P-series 55" 4k HDR TV as well. I wanted to go bigger, but anything bigger would hang over the side of the fireplace column.

Forum layout has changed, therefore things are not where I expect them to be. Additionally, when I look for unread content, I see more than I want (thread title is fine) and have to scroll down to load more topics. I don't use Apple computers for one reason being that I don't want to relearn how to use a computer. Having more doesn't make it easier. You can tell me to do X all you want, I prefer the old version, just as I still prefer the old version of the previous forum I mentioned.

I bought a set of CP-6 outdoor speakers that were new... When I went to pick them up, the guy called just prior to say he found some scratches in the bottom and asked if I was still interested. He said they speakers have never been used, but have been displayed at events. He also included a free set of unopened R6i headphones as a gift. Can you guess what company he works for?

I am personally not a big fan of the change. The SHO Forum went to something similar a year or so ago and I don't visit it as much as it's just harder to find what I want on the board.

I use a set of RB-51's with a small Dayton T-amp and a sub. Without the sub, they do not have enough bass for me.

For example, car racing enthusiasts add stickers to their car because "it adds horsepower". If anything, the stickers make the car slower, but they don't care...the fake authenticity of looking like a real sponsored racecar makes them enjoy the racing event more. And that totally fake feeling of authenticity actually improves the mood of the drivers and then they actually drive faster. It's all part of the entire experience. The difference here is the car enthusiast crowd doesn't have such a vocal group of people crying foul about someone that chooses the fake authenticity.. Actual car "racing" enthusiasts do it for contingencies. That is how I got my last set of Hoosiers for free (run their tires, run their stickers, win event, get free stuff).

Let me qualify that... you dont need larger injectors to run e85 with a proper tune (I thought that part of the statement was a given). You'll definetely need larger injectors if you plan on raising the redline above factory limits and are breathing at higher volumes. A proper tune doesn't defeat mechanical limits. The stock injectors, on E85, will go static before factory redline, regardless of tune... Unless you like to run lean or maybe live 10,000 feet above sea level. You realize I tune cars, right? Lots and lots and LOTS of E85 converted tuning.

Pretty much. I used some OEM 07+ STi / 2006-2014 WRX injectors (565cc) with PnP clips (the injector was a direct fit with OEM seals) and tuned it. I already had put in an AEM EMS 2, but you can use other routes of tuning like Haltech, Infinity, Greddy E-manage, etc. Only 2006+ S2000's can be tuned/flashed on the stock ECU (and is also a return-less fuel system). I ran a couple years like that with stock everything else in the fueling system, but I finally had to make another fueling upgrade last year. I always had fuel starve issues on track and AutoX at anything under 3/4 tank of fuel, so I added a fuel surge tank last year. It connects to factory lines and mounts in place of charcoal canister. Everything else in the fuel system is still there and in use; stock pump is feeding a 155 lph Walbro in the surge tank and trigger a relay with the unused evap wires configued through the ECU as a second pump. I've done numerous track days after install, but today was my first AutoX since. I was a bit rusty and the weather turned cold and was unable to get heat into the tires, so lots of sliding. You don't need bugger injectors to run e85... you'll need bigger injectors if you are spinning the motor higher than normal redline or if you're breathing is significantly more than OEM. Yes you do. Lambda for E85 is ~30% more fuel by volume. You will run out of injector with the stock injectors before factory redline. Another option would be to bump the base fuel pressure up a bit with an aftermarket regulator, but I probably wouldn't do it without upgrading the pump another size up (stock pump might suffice, but I could never find exactly what the flow as on it or what it would actually flow at a higher base pressure). Additionally, even if they could support enough fuel at redline, I wouldn't recommend running them 100% when using your S2000 like I do.

Ethanol is where it's at, especially when boosted! I rune E85 in my STi, S2000, and also ran it in my supercharged SHO. I've converted so many Subaru's to E85 that I can't really remember the last time I did a gas tune. I tuned this 1995 SHO on E85 last year, and now he's adding an EFR 8374 that I'll go back out to Georgia to tune again.

They have never figured out what the germans and Italians have with matching the engine to the transmission. The gearing is fine; the engine lacks torque. I tuned my car with E85 and lowered the VTEC so that there is no "kick". I actually had to break out the laptop the other day to adjust for the E70 we're still at here... Which is why I need to install my ethanol sensor and run it into the ECU so I can have it be a true "FlexFuel" setup. I do want more power, but I would like to be as reliable as this motor has been (like 30 track days and some AutoX's and I've only done oil changes on the motor), so no boost. I would also like to bump up in classing for NASA and add aero, so I plan to do it as a package. That said, I will be putting in a J35a4 (Honda 3.5L V6 found in a bunch of cars). which is cheap, common, and should be able to get around 300whp/280wtq (currently around 220whp/160wtq). There is no replacement for displacement. I think that sounds like a great swap out. What about the transmission? Will it bolt up nicely? Is there a DIY thread somewhere showing this swap and all the things you have to do? There are a couple shops that make kits that include an adapter for the transmission and engine mounts (none commercially advertised though). The one I was originally looking at uses a flywheel spacer, but I'll probably have Fidanza make me a thicker flywheel. One of the reasons I like the J swap is that I can use the stock drivetrain, just need to change the final drive with a much lower redline. As long as I have a kit to get the motor in place, I can figure out how I want to route everything else and my AEM ECU will be able to run this engine without having to swap harnesses. I was originally going to pull the AC, but if I compete in One Lap, I'm told that I will absolutely want to keep the AC. There are a few threads with swaps, but most seem to be pretty quiet on them. http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/1139217-j32-s2000-complete/page__st__25__p__23833303__fromsearch__1#entry23833303