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Everything posted by PrestonTom

  1. That is pretty much the case. The drivers, with packing, are about 33 lbs each. If you double them up you will exceed the 50lb limit and the besides the package would become a beast. I would hate to imagine what could happen. I would pack the horns together in a third box, since I would hate to what could happen to a 30 lb weight next to, or attached to , a horn. These are pricey, so It would be awful if something happened to them (I am being very cautious). So much easier if folks made the drive. Within reason, I can meet them part way.
  2. I guess it is a matter of personal preference, but I have always found CD horns (controlled dispersion) horns to sound better than others (non-CD). I have also found CD horns of the "modified tractrix" design (i.e., Klipsch K-402 or K-510) to sound the better than the other CD competitors (especially ones with a diffraction slot).
  3. I would also hold out for Jubilees. I own them and I previously owned the K-Horns, Cornwall, La Scalas. I could be happy with any of them, but the Jubilees are special.
  4. Please note that the original post said that I would NOT ship these. Things sometimes change. Addendum: On Nov 7th I decided to relax the constraint about "pick up only". I am willing to pack and ship. However, please note the additional costs from Connecticut (06365) are looking to be about $90-120 to the Midwest and over $130 to the West Coast. Shipping is not inexpensive.
  5. Geez, Doesn't anyone think the tweeter should be tested first before the guy has to go out and buy new stuff?
  6. I would not bother with an "upgrade" at this point. First, go ahead and get the voltmeter out to see if the tweeter is reading "open" or not, and then check the connections to and from the crossover (if necessary, swap with the crossover section from the working side) If there actually is a problem with the tweeter, then go ahead and fix, replace, or upgrade. Keep in mind that is best to do both sides at the same time. Upgrading a working K-77 has never made much sense to me. However, there are plenty of competent people who would not agree. Good luck, -Tom
  7. Using DSP is a good decision Good luck, -Tom
  8. You are correct , that is not a birch ply. The other give away is that edge banding has been added. This is not the original "KCBR" cabinet. This was a common modification for users to perform and I think they did a pretty good job.
  9. Let me be a bit of a wet blanket. My friendly advice is that you first decide the following. 1) Is this going to be a two-way or three-way system? 2) Is a controlled dispersion design important to you? 3) partly as a function of #2 - are you willing to use an active DSP crossover. This should determine the horn(s) that you use. Please note that if you start experimenting with various driver/horn combinations you will not be able to use a known (and proven) analog crossover, they may or may not work very well and designing your own is harder than it looks. I would first consider the above design issues and proceed accordingly. Otherwise you are stuck with a design based on "someone on the internet said it sounded good". There are a number of good Altec, JBL and Klipsch designs that you could copy and integrate with your bass bin. Good luck and please consider the above three questions first, -Tom
  10. Well Coytee, Once again, we are in violent agreement that the K-402 is the preferred solution. However, I think the poor guy is trying to go smaller (K-510-ish) rather than bigger K-402-ish).
  11. Interesting question on that eBay horn. Two points. 1) the more recent version of the K-510 horn now has a different shape (incorporating the "mumps"). Mumps will help control the dispersion and perhaps the horn loading to a lower frequency. There may be some other advantages. 2) the horn listed on eBay is described as a clone of the Klipsch K-510 (supposedly the previous version without the "Mumps"). Other than some similarities with the overall size, I have yet to be convinced that it actually is a clone of the K-510. Please remember that I do not possess one of these, I have not measured one of these, and that others will disagree with me. You will need to come to your own conclusion. Good luck, -Tom
  12. The Klipsch K-510 is a good candidate. It is modified tractrix design with a 2 inch throat. Overall the size is 15 in wide x 9 in tall x 5 in deep. It is a CD horn and can be used in a two-way system (it is the same design family as the big K-402). In the spirit of full-disclosure. I am biased and I also have a pair of these listed in the Garage Sale forum. -Tom
  13. I am not convinced these would be easy to re-sell if you did not like them. It partly depends on which woofer was used and what sort of shape it is in (I know it says "restored" but ......). Voice of the Theater was a term used to cover a variety of cabinets and was eventually further corrupted as a marketing term. Part of interest would be if these were original (not just some original parts, some look "modified"). They are hardly original and I am unable to tell if you could even clone an Altec A5 cabinet out of them.
  14. Many of us have tried that strategy. The rate of success is mixed.
  15. So ....... I am guessing that Klipsch Jubilees are not on the short list
  16. As others have noted above, most likely the problem is not the amps or the wiring or breaking in time (those are all relatively small effects). The most likely culprit is the cabinet interacting with the room. Spend some time (and it can be tedious), experimenting with the placement of both the speakers and the listener's position. Especially try them closer to a wall or two walls (corner). Good luck, -Tom
  17. I have used that horn and tweeter before. The good news is that is a great driver (I currently have a pair for sale in the garage sale section), however the horn can sound a bit harsh. If you cross it above 800Hz or so, the harshness will be tamed somewhat. The horn is in the 2360 series and is actually bigger than how it looks in the photo. Of comparably sized horns, I would hold out for a Klipsch K-402 IMHO. -Tom
  18. I have used the DCX 2496 successfully, although I do acknowledge the concerns Chris raised about the analog sections. To have decent results, do not use the analog input. Rather use the digital inputs (can either be S/PDIF or AES/EBU). That is one analog section eliminated (as well as a needless DAC conversion). To do this you will of course need to have the attenuation after the DAC (IOW, 4 or 6 channel potentiometer). The analog section after the DCX's DAC is trickier. There are plenty of threads on how to slice the cable (after the DAC and before the reconstruction filter) and then add a transformer to provide some gain, help with the filtering and bypass the electrolytic caps & ICs. A good but not terribly expensive transformer is made by CineMag (about $35). the other components are trivial. Yes, it is a little bit of work (not too technical however), and you will have a very clean signal. Remember the DCX has a street price of about $275, which makes it very, very affordable for those with a DIY bent. Even if you don't modify the output action , it does not sound too bad and you will get your feet wet to the world of DSP crossovers. Many advantages and a huge cost savings (compared to Xilica, Electrovoice, DEQ, Lake, Yamaha etc). I have not personally worked with the miniDSPs so I cannot comment on them. Good luck, -Tom
  19. Although at this point I have not changed my mind, I sent a PM
  20. NOTE: These items have now been sold and are now in a good home Sometimes projects that are planned don't go the distance. I was going to build a system for a friend and their circumstances have changed. So, I have have one pair of Klipsch K-510 horns. These are new and have never been bolted to a cabinet or a driver. The condition is perfect, although one did have a thin foam strip pressed to the back of the mouth flange (not visible from the front & is self adhesive and it can be easily removed). The K-510 horn measures 15 in wide x 9 in tall and 5 in deep. The throat is 2 inches with the standard 4 bolt flange. These are the newest version with the "mumps" which can control dispersion to a lower frequency. Since they are new, the finish is in great shape. The horizontal dispersion is controlled to 90 degrees down to about 500Hz. The vertical dispersion is controlled to about 60 degrees (down to about 1600 Hz). IOW, it is a 90x60 horn. The geometry is Roy Delgado's design ("modified tractrix" in the same design family as the big K-402 horn). Since it is a controlled dispersion horn (CD) the off-axis frequency response is comparable to the on-axis response. Let me be clear, these are the real deal and obtained from a Klipsch dealer. BTW, Klipsch sells these horns with a K-691 driver for roughly $750 each. I also have one pair of JBL 2446H compression drivers. They are are not new, but I am the original owner, They are all original and have not been used in a pro-sound environment. They are in great shape. These have a 2 inch exit to match the K-510 throat. The nominal impedance is 8 Ohm (hence the "H" designation). The DCR is specified at 4.3 Ohm these measure (as shown) within the +/- 10% limit. The special features on these is their handling power (100 Watts continuous at 500 Hz & 150 Watts continuous at 1 kHz and above). They feature the "Coherent Wave phasing plug" and the radial-ribbed diaphragm with the "diamond" embossed pattern suspension. These last two features also it to extend its range up 20 kHz and push the break up modes to a fairly high frequency. The sensitivity is 111 dB SPL (1 W at 1 M when horn mounted). Please note that these drivers have a very strong motor for controlling the diaphragm (basically it is huge magnet). So the drivers each weigh about 30 lbs. They measure 9.25 in diameter and 5 in depth. The street pice for new ones is anywhere from $650-850 per driver. When you use these, JBL recommends a crossover of around 500 Hz or above and with a slope of 12 dB /octave. If one wants to hot rod these in the future, you can PM for info (IOW, let's not discuss it in a Garage Sale forum). For Forum members I am going to give a very competitive price. All four pieces (two horns and two drivers) will cost $680. Let me nix some questions: 1) Package deal - I will not sell the horns separately from the drivers (you will need to do that yourself if you want, but at these prices that would be trivial) 2) No trades - believe me I have too much equipment already. 3) No shipping. The drivers would need to be shipped in separate boxes. So it would end up being three boxes. I would hate to see these drivers get damaged. You must pick these up. Addendum: On Nov 7th I decided to relax this last constraint. I am willing to pack and ship. However, please note the additional costs from Connecticut (06365) are looking to be about $90-120 to the Midwest and over $130 to the West Coast. These are located in the SE corner of Connecticut (Groton CT 06365). I am about 1 hour from New Haven, Hartford, or Providence. About 2 Hours form NYC or Boston. If it can be done conveniently, I am willing to drive about an hour to meet you. Thanks for looking and please PM if you have any other questions. -Tom
  21. I'm not sure what style home you guys live in, but many will have unused space in the attic crawl space. Consider building a big box. Keep the distortion low by using multiple drivers or by horn loading. Move the pieces to the attic for final assembly of the subwoofer. Snake a speaker wire up the wall and cut a hole in the ceiling and cover it with a vent/grill (it will need some sort of plenum). Folks will just think it is an air intake for the air handler. You might need cushioning between the box and the ceiling joists. I am filled with crazy ideas ...
  22. Didn't Klipsch have a sub for the Palladium series? Did anyone ever hear one?
  23. Did the KLF30's have material inside them to begin with? The 10% rule of thumb, comes as a general statement form JBL engineers. This was for vented cabinets (as the KLF is) using about 1 inch thick material on the 5 sides (nothing on the baffle side). The material can be pressed fiberglass (eg, heating duct insulation boards or insulation blankets, about 3 lbs /cu ft) this is NOT fluffy fiberglass or closed cell foam rubber), or you might substitute Roxul (safe n sound) which is affordable and readily available at Home Depot etc. There are other materials also, along with over-priced stuff that comes with a great deal of folklore about its supposed benefits. My own general comments are some of the guys are going overboard on the bracing. The braces do not need to be massive 2x4s. Lighter stock will work fine if it is well placed and well attached. Additionally, The venting geometry (cross sectional area and length is dependent on the tuning and cabinet volume, and the desired alignment along with the electro-mechanical properties of the driver). That should be what determines whether the cabinet needs to be "larger" or not.
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