rcarlton

Ordered mine from Acoustic Sounds. My status is B. They only received 350, next set expected in June. [:'(]

The Radio Shack meter and a computer plus REW (a free program, link to forum) will get you graphs.

Saw LaScala's for $800 on the Flint Craigslist. Looks like a terrific deal.

Here is mine.

Roger Russell had some interesting comments about why companies used higher quality wire: "The Truth about Speaker Wire Despite the effectiveness of Gordon's cable demonstration and the truth about speaker wire, people visiting the McIntosh room at the shows, who had not experienced the cable demonstration, were disturbed that we were using ordinary heavy zip cord instead of one of the popular brands of speaker wire. Instead of listening to the McIntosh speakers and electronics, they recalled "bad" things they had been told about "common" speaker wire and this promoted questions about the "inferior" wire being used. When we changed the wire to a popular brand of wire, customers were happy with the setup, and directed their attention to the McIntosh equipment. The demand for high quality speaker wire was increasing and appeared to be a new marketing area for several companies. McIntosh did not make or sell speaker wire. The solution seemed very obvious--rather than spend time and effort to create negative sales for McIntosh dealers who were beginning to sell speaker wire, it seemed best to encourage the speaker owner/customer to consult with the dealer about what speaker wire to use. Consequently, I no longer recommended the kind of wire or wire sizes in the speaker manuals. I credit the success of the speaker wire industry to their expert sales and marketing ability. However, it is my experience that ordinary copper wire, as long as it's heavy enough, is just as good as name brands. Cardas Wire and the IDS-25 If I don’t believe that expensive speaker wire makes an audible difference, why is it used inside the IDS-25 speaker system (the system that Roger sells)? The answer is very simple. IDS is out to sell speakers and not everyone believes in ordinary wire. The explanation is the same as what McIntosh found at shows and is described in the section above. Cardas wire does not sound any better but it may help to sell speakers to those who are concerned about wire and are not convinced that ordinary wire is just as good. The increase in cost is negligible compared to the drivers, enclosures and equalizer."

Ordered from Acoustic Sounds before the price raise. Can't wait to get the set!

The MCD301 is available now. It is only $5000.[pi][]

On Audiogon they go for $1850-2500. My concern is the history of problems the MCD201 has. McIntosh claims they have a fix for them, but if you buy used, what does it cost to get it fiixed? The MCD301 interests me.

She's not bad looking!

I first thought it was an April fools joke!

Looks like aTeres 265 in Rosewood. Different platter.

No...the lead pellets are for the legs of the equipment rack. You need the magic pebbles for the corners. BTW Herbie's does reduce static electricity and holds the record in place. Does much better than the felt mat that came with the table.

I'm using Herbie's Way Excellent Turntable Mat. Works as advertised. No complaints. Much better than the factory mat. Not my TT but it looks cool.

Lets look at it from a dollars approach. C22 ($269)>Blueberry ($1695)>C20 ($269). Taking into account inflation and using the consumer price index. C22 ($1662)>Blueberry ($1695)>C20 ($1821). The Blueberry is not such a bad deal!

Very nice. The C2200 is a really nice preamp.

Sounds like swollen caps on the DM module. See this thread at the Home Theater Shack.

One more.

Closeup.

My McIntosh and Klipsch 2-channel setup.

10. Here are the part numbers (KSS-213C) and the flat wire connection. Fairly easy to snap in place. Reverse all of the previous steps to put it back together, test it, if it passes put the hood back on. Total time...18 minutes. This should be similar to the process for a broken DVD player.

9. Remove solder short on PC board on the new laser pickup. Forgot to do that initially, caused some concern for awhile when nothing worked. Use a soldering iron and solder sucker. They use a solder short as electrostatic protection.

Remove flat wire from old pickup and turn assembly over. Should be enough slack in the wires. Remove screw, washer and spring from 5 & 6. Slide bar out at 7. Push plastic gear out at 8 to remove the old pickup.

Close up of plastic clip at 3 which stops the metal bar. Move it aside to allow bar to slide partway.

Had more problems with the player. Was getting static from both channels. Figured the laser pickup was going bad. Part number was on it, ordered a new one from B&D Enterprises. Cost $26.25 with shipping. Remove hood from unit. Open tray drawer. Unplug...drawer stays open and out of the way. To remove the pickup unscrew the brass screws at 1 & 2. The assembly has 2 pins that were held in place by the brass screws. On the other end of the assembly is a small post which fits under the black gear (partly shown in next picture at the bottom). Notice the white plastic rail the laser rides on. There is a small piece of plastic below the lens assembly that fits on the underside of the plastic rail. You can see it on the third picture, directly above the number 8. Slide plastic stop at 3 back to allow rod to slide part way. Remove plastic gear at 4 (best to remove it from the backside, see 8).

I'm not in your league...first bike...1970 Honda CT70.