Malcolm

Sorry to hear one of your woofers is bad. But don't feel bad, you still got a good deal. I have a pair of 1966 speakers like yours, but in theater black. Love them. If your speaker buzzes, it was probably bad before it was shipped. If the cone is intact, this usually means the speaker was subject to serious abuse (too much power for too long). The voice coil former distorts and the coil rubs against the magnet assembly. It could also be that the speaker was reconed somewhere along the line and the voice coil is misaligned. It may be better to find a working replacement than to get it reconed. I believe EV isn't making replacement cones for this speaker anymore . So any replacement would be generic aftermarket. Of course, as if you do decide to get it reconed, do both so they sound the same. And fine a quality reconer. There is in the San Francisco bay area that does speakers for recording artists. Don't recall the name. Looks like the cabinet is an oiled walnut finish. You may be able to rescue it with some 0000 bronze wool and Danish walnut finish. Just be careful not to go through the veneer. Alternatives are painting or reveneering the existing cabinets or building new ones. Veenering these cabinets is not very difficult, particularly if you use self-adhesive veneer. Building a new cabinet is not at all difficult if you are handy at woodworking and have access to the requisite tools. Let us know what you do!

I have had Heresys with K55Vs and type E networks, and K53Ks with type E2 networks. The K53Ks apparently were introduced toward the end of the original Heresy product line as a cost cutting measure. I can definitely hear the difference between the two. Not so much a difference in frequency response as timber. The K55V should be a better match for your LaScalas. The only difference I remember between the type E and type E2 crossovers is the E2 has a 33 uF cap added to increase the rolloff of the woofer. I think the autotransformer taps used are the same. So, my guess is your plan should work just fine.

Well, you could turn down the treble and get a good subwoofer. If I remember correctly, Heresys are 3 dB down at 50 Hz. Depending on what you are listening too this may not be good enough, even with the effective bass boost you get from corner placement. With a good sub, you may not feel the top end is too bright. My sub is crossed at 50 Hz, about the same efficiency as my Heresys and driven by a 300 watt amp. System sounds great.

No reason to not do it. I would't expect much change, though. The wire you will replace is a lot shorter than the wire in the autotransformer, chokes, and speaker cable. My guess is that any real improvements you see will be from resoldering, etc. Go for it and let us know what you find!

Best advice I can give on this is try it and see what sounds best to you. Tuning by ear seems to work best for subwoofer crossover. Input to my sub currently goes through a 50 Hz filter with a 6 dB slope. No filter on Heresys. This seems to work pretty well with the natural rolloff of the Heresy's woofer. With a 24 dB filter, I would expect you would have to cross higher to avoid the woofer's natural rolloff.

The barrier strips used on vintage Klipsch are actually pretty good connectors. The benefit from changing them would be more flexibility in the type of speaker cable termination you could use. If you want a 5-way binding post that will take big spades, banana plugs, or 10 gauge bare wire, go for it. I don't think you will be able to hear the difference between the cheap ones available from $3.95 from many sources and $50.00 ones.

You don't need a P-trap. I don't think type B networks were used in the Heresy. My 1966 and 1972 models have type C. 1974 type E. Later type E2. All are similar. Differences are in taps used on the T2A autotransformer and capacitor values. E2 also added a 33uF cap. The differences in the networks are necessary due to the differences in the other components. Two types of tweeters have been used, both variants of the Electro-Voice T35A--K77 with alnico magnet, K77M with ceramic magnet. Only difference is K77M has slightly better response above about 12KHz. At least two types of squawkers have been used--K55V with alnico magnet variant of the Atlas PD5V for much of the run, and the K76K with ceramic magnet (Heppner?) in the last years. There were many woofers. My 1966 models have variants of the Electro-Voice SP12B. 1972 have CTS with large magnet structure. 1974 CTS with smaller magnet structure. All are labelled K22. There were some woofers made by Eminence and others--K22E, K22K. Usual first tweak is damping the midrange horn with dynamap, rope caulk or something else if the horn is metal. Some people also damp the tweeter horn. Next tweak is generally replacing the capacitors in the crossover with whatever your favorite is. Those two will give you the biggest bang for the buck.

Sideways might be better for home theater. It will be more directional. But I would recommend trying sideways, right side up and up side down and seeing what sounds best to you. If you use an earlier Heresy with all AlNiCo magnets, you probably won't have a problem with stray magnetic fields affecting the picture. If you use a later one, you may need to choose the orientation of the speaker based on how it affects the picture. You may want to keep the woofer as far from the screen as possible. You may need to add bucking magnets.

How about your local dealer. You don't necessarily have to pay retail. Everything is negotiable if you approach it right, even at the big chains.

Beautify, protect and enjoy is what I suggest. From what I have seen, condition and finish count but not originality. If the speakers were true collector's items, you would certainly maximize their value by keeping them in original condition. But we don't seem to be near that point, at least in the U.S. Maybe in Asia. Maybe some very early Heresys (H700s). If you get water marks or other stains on you speakers, the value will diminish significantly. A clear finish will protect and beautify and IMHO would be a good idea. It might even increase the value of the speakers. I would not suggest trying to stain the cabinets. Birch plywood blotches and is difficult to get a consistent stain on. I would recommend a modern clear finish like Varathane Diamond Wood Finish. You could also use an oil finish, but it won't protect the wood from scratching like a hard finish.

If you will post the serial numbers, I think someone can tell you the year. If the paper label is still on the back, you will find them there. Some models also had them punched into the back edge of the side or top panel. Heresys have the drivers mounted from the back of the motorboard (from inside the box). Heresy IIs have the drivers mounted from the front. If you remove the back, Heresys should have K-77 or K-77-M tweeters. Most have K-55-V squakers, but some of the last have K-53-K and maybe another model. Woofer will be K-22 of some version unless it has been replaced. Heresy II drivers are different.

The crossovers could very well be different if the efficiency of the components differs between speakers.

Electrolytics can definitely degrade over time. I have replaced electrolytics in crossovers from the 50s and 60s where corrosion has eaten away the connection between the foil and the wires. I have fixed unusable TVs and avionics by doing no more than replacing the electrolytics in the unit. Voltage rating doesn't seem to have much to do with how long they last. The environment they live in, operating and non-operating, can have a big affect on their life. The electrolytics I have replaced in Heresys with E2 crossovers were all probably in good condition because the speakers lived in temperature controlled environments and were never abused. But degradation is not the sole reason for replacing them. Bipolar electrolytics are basically a compromise in a crossover. They aren't as good for the application as some other types, but they are a lot cheaper. And the quality of the 33uF caps in the E2 network is probably much less critical than the quality of the 2uF caps. Klipsch made a decision to use a "good enough" part for the circuit to keep the cost of the Heresy reasonable. You, as an audiophile, can use whatever you can afford and tweak to your heart's content.

Bucking magnets are used to reduce stray magnetic fields that may affect your TVs image if the speakers are too close.

I pretty much agree with James. Another LaScala of the same vintage is the best choice. If you use older LaScalas with the K-55-V, then I think Heresys with K-55-Vs (all but the latest Heresys) would be good, too. You will have very good timbre match. There will, of course, be a mismatch in sensitivity which you can address with your A/V receiver's settings. Timbre match will not be as good if you have K-55-Ms. KV-4 or Acadamey might be as good or better match than KLF-C7 if you can find one.

There is a whole lot of information, misinformation, and opinion on this at the audioasylum site. A surge suppressor will not affect the current available to your subwoofer's amp when it is not clamping surges. The MOVs used to suppress surges are connected from line to neutral, neutral to ground and line to ground, not inline with either line or neutral. The only rational concern I have seen is that the MOVs not have too low of an operating voltage so they do not conduct too often. This should not be a concern with commercial surge suppressors.

The timbre of a Heresy with a K-52 will not exactly match the timbre of an older Keresy with a K-55-V because of the difference in squawkers. And, unfortunately the mismatch is going to be in the mid frequencies which the ear is most sensitive to because it is the squawker that is different. You can get an idea of the difference by listening to the white noise generated by the level setting function on your HT receiver. I can hear the difference and that difference goes away when I use a matched set of rear speakers. However, I find the difference less obviuous when just listening to program material. Whether the mismatch is significant is up to you to decide.

X10 Wireless Technology makes a product that might meet your requirements. It works with existing speakers and has a built in stereo amplifier. You can check it out and get a certificate for at $15 discount on a purchase of $50 or more at: http://www.x10.com/friends/refer.cgi?blackhal@midtown.net

Just Heresys and subwoofer: 1966 with EV woofers, Type C network 1972 with CTS woofer, Type C 1974 different CTS woofer, Type E 1978 Eminence woofer, Type E Decware WO32 subwoofer All in various stages of being veneered with Narra, trimmed with Teak and covered with cane grills. http://midtown.net/blackhal/images/1966.jpg http://midtown.net/blackhal/images/1972.jpg http://midtown.net/blackhal/images/1974.jpg http://midtown.net/blackhal/images/1978.jpg http://midtown.net/blackhal/images/wo32.jpg http://midtown.net/blackhal/images/narra.jpg

The reason they are recommended is because there are the speakers in the current product line that best match the timbre of your main speakers. A Chorus II would be the ideal center channel if it fit in with you listening room and screen. You might even consider two more for the surround speakers even though they might be more directional at high frequencies than the RS-3s.

Some years ago, the folks at McIntosh did A/B tests on speaker cables. The results? Nobody could hear a difference as long as the cable gauge was large enough. Smaller suffered, bigger did not help. I believe they said 16 gauge zip cord is good for up to 50 feet. There are a lot of audiophiles who would disagree with this. Check out the list on cables at www.audioasylum.com for more information and opinion than you ever wanted on speaker cables. Guess what PWK uses. There is another thread on this board that describes his home system.

From the Klipsch part number, it appears to be a magnetically shielded version of the driver used in the KSB-S1. Does anybody know if Klipsch uses paper labels on the back of their direct radiators now? Used to be the part number was stamped in ink directly on the part. Why not e-mail the seller and ask for more information, including his source? Also check out his feedback to see how reliable he has been in the past. How about calling Klipsch tech support and asking?

I think you'll like 5 Heresys for surround. That's what I have, along with a Decware WO32 subwoofer. As already stated, Heresy II has different tweeter and squawker than Heresy. If you do a search of the archives, you will find all you want to know. They have maybe a bit better high end and low end response. They definitely sound different to me. Whether they sound enough different to make a difference to you, I don't know. You'll have to listen and decide for yourself. My guess is that you will find them a good match as rear channels, probably better than what you have now. BTW. The late (1984 or so) Heresys also sound different from the earlier ones because they have a different squawker.

The K-77 is an Electro-Voice T35A with AlNiCo magnet. The K-77-M is an Electro-Voice T35A with a ceramic magnet. As stated in another thread, it is a bit more efficient on the high end. So, it won't sound quite the same as what you have now. The brown, plastic fabric looking, dome shaped thing is the diaphragm/voice coil. A wire from either side of it is soldered to the terminals on the horn. If you managed to get to the wire screen, and you did not unsoldered the wires first, you will probably have to replace the diaphragm. If you can solder, this is simple. It pretty much aligns itself. Just be careful to not damage the voice coil. New diaphragms are about $22.00 from speaker repair places or Electro-Voice, a lot more from Klipsch. You might consider replacing the diaphragms on both your left and right tweeters. They might sound a little different if you do not.

Sounds like 1980 Heresys. Are they about 21 1/2 inches high and about 15 1/2 inches wide?