The Dude

Nobody in the Omaha area must have purchased fine audio gear back in the day, as I feel I have been to every estate sale and auction and find nothing like this. Yes you can say I am jealous. But I must say nice score and great job on the restore, ketch it up(I meant keep it up)the good work that is.

I run in the in wall surround speakers that sound great, I get lots of compliments and run them with my Cornwalls. I use a Academy center, that sounds great. I would recommend at least one of those for a center are better yet like Picky says a Heresy for a center. I have not tired a Heresy as a center once I get a new entertainment center, I will sell the Academy and give one a try.

I put one on and i must say I was disappointed, so I melted the insulation off of it and scraped the copper.

What are you going to use as a center,

Me neither but hey maybe one of us will be the RF7II winner.

Oh well I guess I should sign out every once in a while

At the bottom of my post were my sig. would be there is a link for edit tags. For some reason this drives me nuts, does anyone else see this and how do I make it go away. Thanks

I love it when a plan comes together, quick question Youthman. What happened to your surround backs, I noticed in a couple other pictures in the past that they were missing. Maybe I missed the post were you explained taking them down. Your room is always looking so very nice.

As for my plans on the Bozak Cabinet, I will be dropping a Dual 1019 in there. Once I get some money to gather send my HH Scott 299 to NOSvalves for refurbish as I am tired of ordering the wrong parts and making a mess of things. I would like to eventually put a HH Scott 330d or 333 tuner in there as I do enjoy some am/FM listening from time to time. Sorry for the crappy pics, I was never good at photography.

I all ways seem to be moving things and changing things. I haven't purchased anything real new lately, but I got tired of not spinning some vinyl. Well last month I picked up a Bozak equipment cab, though I am not done and have a long ways to go. I at least put some of my gear in it and started spinning some vinyl for now. Dam it is nice, I know things aren't finish, such as walls, reveenering, and the top hats need to be reconstructed. But for now it will work as I can come down here have a few drinks and relax.

Man this escalated quickly, Yuengling has become pretty mainstream here in Florida(maybe because of their brewery in Tampa). The lager is just okay, kind of like a light amber colored Bud Select. The Black and Tan on the other hand, is pretty darn good IMO. Not Guiness/Bass black and tan good but still very drinkable. Have not tried the Yuengling Octoberfest yet. Bill dido on their black and tan, we don't get Yuengling here in the mid west, but a buddy of money gets it from some truckers running back and forth to the east coast. I don't find anything special about their larger. this time of the year I like my beers bold but not to bold as I am not a stout fan, But I do love my nut brown ales, one of my favs. is Goose Island which they just brought back this year. When I first got into micro brews I wasn't a big fan of Sam Adams but I have acquired a taste for quite a few of there beers especially there seasonal brews. We have a couple of local breweries here in Omaha, one of them a good friend of mine works for is Lucky Bucket that sometimes I get to try a few single batches that my buddy brings around well worth it. The last one he got a keg of was their pumpkin spice that was really good, and I don't typically prefer pumpkin brews as I don't like spice, or any kind of fruit tasting beer but theirs was good.

I have a Thorens td-166 mkII, I have the ED Saunders shure v15/3 fitted on this, though mine has a slight bend in the drive motor. I think this thing sounds wonderful, its hard to explain but I all ways think of how wonderful Pink Floyd sounds on this player it brings a tear to my eye every time I play them. I will be picking up a dual 1019 sometime after the first of the year but will look for a bargain as I don't need the base and will have it sent to doctor dual to be refurbished. I will let you know how it plays out down the road. For the price of some of these mid level tables I don't see how the sound could be beat by anything else but thats just my opinion. Good luck and be patient as the right deal will come along for you. I have herd that the Marantz 6300s are wonderful players I think at the right price it would be worth it but if you could get a Thorens or refurbished Dual you would be just as happy if not happier.

Just thinking out loud, and striking conservation. It appears you used MDF, other then cost what were your reasons for this and why not use a solid wood. The reason I ask, I all ways wondered if horns were like violins, violas. As I once read, and seen a special on how the stain preserves the sound of the violin by filling the pores of the wood(or maybe its not suppose to) I just know the special I watched on violin making they were particular on how it was stained and how the stain was made, they would even use crushed beadles for the mixture of the stain. Plus it would look really nice with some stained horns on top.

Dee, I sent you a pm but after looking at ebay, it looks like they go a little cheaper there then the one I sent the link for.

Oh and welcome to the forum, you will find lots of info around here. I am glad you asked before ditching your speakers.

I say upgrade, get new caps, and new tweeters for the Fortes, and Academy. IF you have any soldering skills you could replace the diaphrams, and caps for less then 200.00. I don't know much about your receiver, I do know there are a few forum members that have had good experiences so I couldn't see that being a issue. If you don't like the sound after the up grades you could sell to get your money back plus make a good profit.

i like how he lays every part out on the links, for 370.00 I don't think that is a bad price for someone wanting to get into tubes. Heck I even have all the tubes so that wouldn't be any extra cost. Dang it, Dang it, Dang It. I wish you guys would let some of us still trying to learn on one piece finish learning on it before you present something like this.

Thanks guys, luckily since things aren't finish I can play around until I get it were I like it. I think I will start with the leveling the floor, and getting the drywall finish if it still isn't were I like it then I can slope it out. This is all to much fun, I really enjoy messing around with this kind of things, because I know once I have it were I am happy set back and listen how wonderfull things sound It just puts a big grin on my face. Crazy like the rest of you, well lets put it this way I don't have the most ideal set up for this. So I will get as crazy as I have to ahahahahaha.

Ok, hopefully this makes since. But my Khorns are in the basement with a concrete floor, if any body has experience with concrete basement floors they know they are not poured equally. Maybe if I had alot of money and more say when my house was built then I could have requested this but I couldn't. So now I have to deal with it. First off the problem, last night I pulled my horns out to put some pipe insulation on the tail board so I can get a better seal to the walls. Now this went on easily but making shoving them into the corners a little more difficult. The biggest issue I am having, is it is nice and tight at the bottom but a little bit of a gap on the top. Now leveling the area out with some self leveling concrete might take care of the problem, but I am thinking about taking it a step further and sloping up where the front of the speaker would set so it sits tighter on the top. This may not be necessary, as once I get the floor level in that area it might sit ok. But if it doesn't would it hurt anything by sloping it a bit, I was thinking that if the top hat was pointing up to much I can put a adjuster screw on the back to angle it back down. Happy Thanksgiving to all. Nick

Thinking about it for a min. even though the melting point is around 300-400 degrees means you need to get the object you are soldering that hot. So you would need to get that wire and connector that hot so it makes since to go hotter so you can quickly heat things up to melt the solder and get out of there.

I have this same issue and all ways wondered my self, like djk said around 700 seems to work best. I was soldering some 12 gauge wire to some spade connectors last night and had to go up to around 800. But was using thicker then normal solder.

Sorry forgot to post the pics

Here are some pics, but over the weekend. I came across a Bozak C-305 component cabinet, so I guess you can say I lost interest in project and am now more focused on one for now.

I couldn't find a year on it, but one of the other ones I came across on ebay. Had a Scott 299d, and a Scott tuner of some sort. Which makes me wonder, if these were built to put what ever components you wanted in them. I think I will keep my eye out for a Scott 333 tuner.

Couple more pics for now.