gearfreak

colterphoto1: Tigger- iced chocolate coffee with sweetener= girlymang ahh... but iced coffee+sugar+cream+old inherited whiskey = a great way to start off a summer evening. I'll have to try it with chocolate next season... not sure how it mixes with whiskey. Not particularly a fan of it otherwise. Alas, Gin just doesn't work in iced coffee. ;-)

If somebody posts the model file I may be able to do so (depending on format). How about a La Scala bin painted up with the 'Flying Tiger(s)' style mouth on the doghouse? The eyes then go on the sides. Oh the possibilities.

Coffee: Peace Coffee ("Sustainable, Shade-Grown, Small-co-op etc etc"). Their 'Guatemalan Dark Roast'. Nice and chocolaty and very caffeinated. I've swayed a few Starbucks drinkers to switch to it... You can get whole bean or they will grind fresh for you prior to shipping for a cheap flat fee I think. Discounts on 10+ I think. Works out just a little more expensive than Dunkin, but you save a trip in the car. (After switching to the Peace from Dunkin, I realized I was using half the normal amount of cream+sugar... because the coffee tasted so much better.) Method: ' French' Press. Anything medium-sized from Bodum made of glass not plastic. I think the older simpler (less decorative) models are a little better built. Fewer moving parts to get in the way and to clean. Just don't press down too hard and have it kick out/break on you. I leave the grounds in the bottom there until time for the next batch, rinse out in sink (no soap, blech!), then use a few ounces of the almost boiling hot water to re-rinse (plunge a litte) prior to putting the new grounds in. This gets out leftover oils pretty well. Disassemble and clean properly w/soap once a week (5 minutes). *Your morning warning - Don't leave your gas stove on and leave the house after heating the water. Or use a micro-wave. Environmental bent: -Sustainable etc coffee choice. (...it's gotta be shipped from somewhere, so why not right to your door.) -No paper filter waste etc etc -I save the coffee grounds (steel mesh sink-strainer thingy collects them well, found cheap at dollar stores, sometimes for 3x the price at the market) dry them (dump in ice-cube tray, set in sun or on top of fridge), then sprinkle around evergreens in yard. I think they like the acidity. Should help with water-retention in the soil. ...also may be a deterrent to Roaches and some other bugs (unsubstantiated). You will also quickly realize how much volume and weight you are removing from the waste stream this way. My collection tray fills up about every 1-2 weeks. *Edit: By 'ice-cube tray', I meant to mean the larger rectangular shoe-box sized thing. Not the trays that make the cubes. :-)

Pic (halfway through cleaning it) and link to thread on the peavey forum if of interest: http://forums.peavey.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2361

Hey guys... Have any of you taken apart your BW 1504's? I was not impressed with mine initially. Then one FH1 bin stopped working all together. Cone was frozen... Upon disassembling the 1504...I realized why... black-tar-goo from either the degraded doghouse weatherstripping foam or the foam in the 1504 vented pole piece had been sucked into the VCG and melted, glueing it to the inside of the former. (Luckilly, not on the windings). I suspect this would cause some distortion if using old ones that have this problem... After cleaning, it was MUCH improved. I used MEK. Acetone also occured to me. Either may be bad for the varnish on the windings... so be carefull if attempting. Will post a pic shortly.

I'd be interested in the JBL 2404H down the road (if some more of my stuff sells). Otherwise I owe it to myself to try out some of the other stuff I've collected here first... e.g. GPA 902's for HF. Should be interesting...

Resurecting this (yikes). My vote: Jim's on South Street (no other Jims though). Also easy to find (on South around 5th I think, and you can smell it) but often you will need to wait in line. Black and White diner motif from the outside. Seating (and ketchup) upstairs. Take some napkins with you. Also the only place I've ever almost gotten into a fight, because of line-jumping. (not me) :-) Thoughts on keys to a good steak: Fresh steak/hoagie rolls (Ameroso's etc.) Grill continually in use (high traffic ones are good, if they have to fire up a grill to make you a steak, well...) - continual use usually means that there is enough grease on the grille (you must have some grease in it for taste, otherwise it might as well be a 'steakumm') -Properly fried chopped onions (golden brown, but not terribly burnt per se) *see grease comment Cheese, onions and steak all made on the grille, then transferred to roll in one deft move, including thus, some of the tasty onion-ated grease, just enough that you might think it will make the roll soggy - but not enough to make it disintegrate before eating or getting cold. Watery is bad. Personally I do not care for the 'wiz' or other 'liquid cheese applied with cake spreading knife' approach myself. Just provalone or american. This helps actually hold it together. Nor do I order using non-english made up cheesesteak words. Pitfalls of the cheesesteak: -no grease -crappy (too much gristle) steak -stale rolls -cluttering it up with things other than onions. (which may be fine, but then it ceases to be a cheese-steak, then becomes a 'piza steak' or a 'philly style steak sandwhich... or who knows). Remotely I also endorse (circa 2001, e.g. if they are still there) the Cheesesteak Factory in Berkley, CA. They actually ship in rolls. (And 'Tastycakes' - which are the regions versions of what the world typically sees/encounters as hostess products). ButterScotch Krimpets (and glass of cold milk) reccomended.

Wow, cool. I don't know weather to laugh or cry... laugh is the intention of course. Would've been good fodder for an exploding PA system rock video at least.

Methinks the 4650 (edit - 4560) were also known as 'Perkins Bins' fwiw. (Whether the attribution is accurate, I do not know). One issue with the 816 seems to be the paralell top and bottom planes. I have read (only read) that this may be less desirable for introduction of standing waves between the paralell faces, as contrasted to the A7 VOTT, which has has the interior face sloped. Might be something to look at and read up on before a purchase. I don't know if the JBL's had similar paralell faces. I think what you'd want to find out before considering the $800 tag is what the drivers are. 3 (albeit water damaged) 816's went on the bay for 9.99 the other day, and I have seen the 'Perkins' for $200-$400/pair more or less, depending on drivers. These look to be in nicer shape generally, but that's also due to the 'carpet'... if you're into 'carpet'. As for the pics, you could probably d/l them locally and crank up the brightness or contrast in an image program. Does not look pretty but would reveal info not seen currently.

Hopefully not OT, but I am wondering what the differences are between the slot design and the butt-cheek designs. (2404, is the cheek design Afaik - or is that only the driver and does it need to be augmented with a horn designation as well?) I was/am considering the CP-25, maybe a slot would be better? Is the design difference primarily just a matter of dispersion angle? (...somebody queue Jacksonbart for a zinger on slots and butt cheeks) :-)

(OT sorry) Yes, the guitar guys have embraced using the old tube PA heads. I just sold my Traynor YVM-1. (50w EL-34, point-to-point wiring, 4 channels, effects loop (well, pre out, power in) 4 speaker jacks and 4/8/16 ohm possibility and intact logo!) The Traynors are (considered) sleepers in this realm, seemingly compared to the desireable Marshalls of the same era. (I do not have ebough marshall experience for direct comparison, but the traynor did sound good.) Epray prices evidencing that for thier guitar models (e.g. ygm-3). People like the PTP ones for ease of mods/rebuilding of course.

Just experementation, 2ch stereo. The a dual 18 is probably overkill and untennable, unless there is a great deal on locally. Not for a PA use at this time, though I would not be opposed to having the PA level-ish capability down the road. The (advertised) efficiency of the horn 'subs' described seemed to match up in the range of the LS/LS Bin. I see a lot of direct radiator 18's around cheap and was considering going for one of those, but then thought that for a little more investment up front I could do horn loaded and keep apples to apples.

Thanks all for all the good input. Looks like avantguard is out of business (or out of distribution) in the US, but I will take a closer look via http://www.avantgarde-acoustic.de/index1.php?sprache=en. I'll clarify, this is not for HT, so there is no overall goal of 20hz per se. Maybe more practical would end up being another set of La Scala bins instead. (or do the ls bass mod). Will ruminate.

Howdy all, If this is better posted in 2ch audio or otherwise, let me know. There seem to be numerous La Scala Subwoofer threads, but most discussing HT / amplified style subs. I don't care about looks or size, so what is anyone's experience or opinion on using something like a folded horn sub-woofer? e.g. http://www.b-52pro.com/models/LX18V2.html All of these ~1x18 variety seem to be of similar design. Freq. Response charts seem to be lacking in general. Peavey seems to be (resurecting) the design, and I think you can still get the Cerwin (j-36?) 'earthquake' models used. Should I expect comperable specs/performance from the design generally, or seek out a particular make/model? Crossover probably would be active /to begin with. thanks!

Thanks for the follow up DizRotus. I did check to ensure the woofer was mounted solidly, but I did not tightness-check the screws. Good idea. It may have been my imagination but it seemed to get a little tighter after resealing it though. Not that I was looking for a change, it just presented itself. Perhaps it was repositioning the cab, but it went back in the same general spot (within a few inches). When I do the other one I will listen more intently before/after. This may also have been related somehow (coupling/discoupling/spiking wise) to the fact that I tightened the rubber feet as well. Some were noticably loose. I replaced all the screws in the hatch as well. I think #10 1.25" Machine screws (crimson bag) from Home Depot. I might reccomend #8 in 1.25" length, but to do it again I would have gone to 1.5" I think. I'm already addressing the xovers in a few ways. (ALK ES, Active) and may roll my own shortly.

It's official. Shawn's 'the man'. Excellent, thanks!

I've seen the reference to: http://www.soundpractices.com/images/smallVOT.pdf However, the site seems down or gone. Anyone have a copy hanging around they can post or send? (If not, I'll post on audioheritage.) thanks!

I took a look at mine, and while the adhesive seems to have gone (or was always) gooey, the strip itself seems more substantial (denser) than the comperable 3/4"(w) x 5/16" (h) foam next to it in the photo (attached or embedded, not sure how it will post). The cleanliness of the area between inner (doughouse mounted) and outer (square, on hatch) strips would seem to attest to the fact that there's little or no air moving around here. Using the photo, does anyone assess this example as needing replacement?

Thanks all for the input. The lukewarm opinions have swayed me to pass on the deal.

Thanks for the input Dave. Not set on anything per se, this just happens to be the offer at hand. I'll check out true RTA in any case.

I've been offered a dbx Driverack PA in trade. i.e. http://www.dbxpro.com/pa/pa.htm Generally I have avoided DSP, but am interested in the RTA ability. Perhaps this unit is a sleeper otherwise as well. My use would be for hi-fi, not PA per se. Can anyone comment on thier results? Thanks in advance..!

Thanks to all. In the end, I think they are just too large for me to accomodate at this point. So here's the details. a) These are unloaded The model designation is based on my research and thier measurments - there is a slight chance they are something else. (yay, mystery!) c) they come with RC90A fiberglass horns for the low-low price of $150. Alas, not near NY, but perhaps still close enough for you. They are pairs I'd need to make 2 trips in the truck I have available, time and gas and space are too precious. * If you end up with them and want to sell me the RC90A's on your way back north, drop me a line! Here's the link, he's a nice guy: http://delaware.craigslist.org/msg/737870503.html

I have the opportunity to pick up an EV TL-4025 and it's mid-bass counterpart the 1225. i.e. 1225: http://archives.telex.com/archives/EV/Speakers/EDS/TL1225%20EDS.pdf (spec'd 125->1250hz) 4025: http://archives.telex.com/archives/EV/Speakers/EDS/TL4025%20EDS.pdf (spec'd 40->500hz - but drops severley below 100hz) plans in JPG... 4025: http://www.geocities.com/loudspeakerguru/TL4025SPEC1.jpg 15 and 12" loaded respectively, much wider than my La Scala industrial Bins. More like MWM's (?) it would seem. The room is ~40' x ~20' I expect, these are for a larger venue, and higher SPL than I would use them for. Initial setup would be with an active xover. Cost, waf/gaf, and size considerations aside, does anyone have an opinion on whether it is worth it to try them? .

I'm considering this for my LSI's. My question from DJK's original post that Marvel quotes... - is whether 4404 cu in is the ideal/desired additional volume? "I'm looking for a total net volume of about 4.8 cu ft. I figure the stock back volume is about 2.25 cu ft. Call it an internal height of about 9" (22.5 X 22.5 X 8.70 = 4404 cu in = 2.55 cu ft). Two 4" ID by 10" long ports displace about .15 cu ft so 10" outside is close enough. " ...or is that just the figure that works out when converting the top of a standard LS - and is there a better figure to use outright? If a larger volume than the ideal is used, is there any problem, say, using bricks (or something similar, rattling etc. notwithstanding) inside to then reduce the volume to the desired figure?

Ahh, gotcha. I'll meet you and Lester under the big W with a pack of chesterfields. ;-)