toddvj

Thanks. I'm glad someone else thinks so. Sorry, Swerv, but you sound like kind of an *******. Did you have any intention of buying at all, or were you just there to do measurements?

Is it possible that frequencies under 50Hz could damage your speakers? Yes, it's possible, but not real likely. I wouldn't reccomend running continuous 25Hz test tones, but with normal use it's unlikely that an occasional low frequency would damage the speakers, the low frequencies just won't be as loud as if you had speakers that reached lower.

120 is definitely too high for the speakers you have. 60-80 is going to work a lot better for those. Even with really small speakers, I think 120 is too high.

I thought this sounded a bit backward, so I checked out the manual online. You are right, it is vague, but I've learned to read between the lines when there is a Japanese to English translation. (The Japanese to English translation probably also explains why "mix" means that the Subwoofer is not used, when one would think it would mean the exact opposite). So anyway, this receiver seems to be exactly like any other. If you select large, the full range will be sent to the front speakers. This means if there are frequencies in the 20Hz range encoded for front channels, those frequencies will be reproduced by the front speakers. The HPF/LPF only affects the crossover for speakers that are selected as small. There is no automatic setting, you can select this crossover to 80, 100, 120, 150 or 180 (why anyone would set it that high, I don't know). The manual says 100 because it matches the example pictured below it, not because it is always that way. So, the way you have it set up, your front speakers receive full range, while all of the others get frequencies above 80Hz. Hope that clears things up.

...Exactly. Most people forget this. You don't want to cut your sub's crossover at 80 (or whatever). Just let the receiver do the crossover duties and leave the sub's crossover alone.

What's the point of giving someone a fake grant?

That's a Great F@#%*ing Amp! Actually, I say that because that's what GFA stands for. I don't really have a lot of personal experience this amp, but we did have one hooked up in the store I used to work, and it sounded great. We didn't have it hooked up to Klipsch, though, we had it hooked up to some Infinity Intermezzos. I think it would be a good buy at $200.

I can solve the rubik's cube in about 2-3 minutes. I solve it layer by layer. People who can solve it under a minute use a much different method. I've tried to learn, but never spent a lot of time with it. There are all kinds of "speed-cubing" competitions where people solve it in less than 30 seconds, there are blindfolded competitions where the participant is given a set amount of time to study the cube and then are blinfolded and have to solve it as quickly as possible. With all of that, though, people are usually impressed when I solve it "slowly" in a couple of minutes.

Yep. Loved it.

Guys, the CS-700 is a 2.1 system. The HDMI on the CS-700 is an output only, you cannot run HDMI into the unit. Run the HDMI to the TV, and audio to the CS-700, either optical or analog RCAs, doesn't really matter that much. Hope that helps.

Hey, I've got that same stand! Mine only holds the center channel, though. And the screw that holds the little knobby thing at the bottom is stripped.

I don't have any persoal experience from either one, but I don't think you'll have any regrets if you get the Volvo. I personally think the Volvo looks nicer than the Passat, stylewise, not that that's the only reason to pick one over the other.

All the suggestions above are good ones. A couple more, if those don't work: Have you tried a different USB port? Do you have another computer you can try it out on? You shouldn't really need to install any software on the computer to plug in a digital camera. Windows will recognize the camera and ask what you want to do with it. When you uninstalled programs that you weren't using anymore, how did you do that? Did you go to add/remove, or did you just delete? If you did the latter, that could be a problem. When was the last time you were able to use it? Can you do a system restore back to that date? Hope there is something useful here.

The crossover doesn't go any higher than 90? If not, that's probably ok anyway. It's not as if the quintets simply stop producing sound when it drops down below 100Hz, they just don't play as loud at say, 90Hz. Likewise, setting the LFE crossover at 90 doesn't mean that the sub doesn't get any sounds above 90Hz, it just means that the sound starts "rolling off" above 90Hz. Plus the sub still gets any sound encoded for the LFE channel, which could be well above 90Hz--just remember to set the crossover on the receiver, not the sub. From personal experience, even when using small speakers, the sound isn't as good if you set the x-over on the receiver too high. You are probably better off leaving it at 90, even if you can set it higher. Best bet is to experiment with it, and see what sounds best to you.

C'mon, don't leave us hanging. How many programs is "a few?" And as far as being worth it to switch, are we talking it's so good that I should switch providers, or if I already have satellite, it is worth it to switch?

Up until recently 1080i is all anyone had. It would probably require all new equipment to enable 1080p. Besides that, it's not like the networks are actually broadcasting 1080p. That being said, it would be cool to have, but I'm not switching to satellite just yet. Let us know if you get it and if it is truly an improvement.

I have a friend who manages a Electronics store. He gave it to me for $1,775. Last week everybody had it on sale for $1,999, and Sears had additional 10% with Sears card. Unfortunately, the prices have gone back up. Probably a Samsung-sponsored deal for the superbowl. You can get this TV on amazon for $1,868 with free shipping.

I got mine at Ultimate Electronics. They had it in stock to walk out the door with. ...And there's no way I could afford the Pioneer Elite, as much as I'd like to.

[:$] The spotlight in this case is the flash from my camera. I'm not a good enough photographer to know how to avoid that [:$] As far as the wires, I'm actually looking forward to cleaning it up. Now that I have HDMI for everything, it should be easy.

Yep. With HDMI switching, you don't need any RCAs (provided your receiver accepts both audio and video from the HDMI--not all do). If you aren't going to use your surround sound for regular TV, this might not be the solution for you, though. In order to do video switching, your receiver needs to be turned on. Me, I use the surround sound even when I'm watching the news. As far as the "big or small" question, ask 10 different people you'll get 10 different answers. The majority of the people will just tell you what someone else told them, and don't really understand what it means. It's really going to depend on your speakers. I recommend using the small setting, and then setting the crossover to the level just above the low end of your speakers frequency response. For example, your speakers are rated 30Hz to 20kHz, set the x-over to 40. And then turn the crossover on your subwoofer OFF (or turn it to the highest frequency). As far as loudness buttons, I'm sure there are receivers that still have them.

I just picked up a new Samsung LN52A650. It's freakin' awesome. Got it just in time for the Superbowl. I went from a 50" 720p TV to this one. My wife did not think we needed a new TV, but as soon as I turned it on, she was convinced. Which is good, because even though she said yes, I could tell she was a little peeved about me buying it. Anybody considering picking up this TV, I'd highly recommend it, you will NOT be disappointed. Fresh out of the box, the settings make things look a little weird. It's the Auto Motion Plus thing. I watched King Kong on Blu-Ray, and everything looked really fake. I thought it was just that the movie used really fake CGI, but that wasn't it, because I soon realized everything I watched looked like that. The best way to describe it is: It looks like you are watching a play and the actors are standing in front of a fake set, with a spotlight shining on them. I can see myself using the Auto Motion Plus if I'm showing off the TV to someone, because it really makes the picture look impressive, but I cannot see myself actually watching movies with the feature turned on. I'll have to experiment more with sports and games, though. I had it on during the Superbowl, and it seemed to make the picture look nicer. Anyway, here's a couple pix: This weekend, I'm going to rewire everything and make it look nicer. For now, the speakers are staying spaced like they are. Our next purchase is going to be some new chairs that will be centered with the TV. At that time I will probably rearrange, and put the equipment rack on the outside of the speakers.

I heard that they've gone through half of their $1.8B inventory already, and that's without really putting anything on sale. I went in to look at movies again Saturday, they were 25% off. Most of them looked like they had brand new tags on them, and were $35. So that brings them down to about $27. Thanks but no thanks. Computer stuff is 10% off. Doesn't even come close to what you can get at other stores, which are still "going concerns." The new TV I just got was on sale everywhere last week for $1999, Circuit had it marked at ~ $2200. Ridiculous. People are suckers. Overall, though, even though the store was packed, most people I saw walking out were empty handed.

Video Switching means that you can run one cable into your TV, and leave the TV on the same input all the time. Then, with only one remote, you can change the video and audio, rather than switching to a different input on your receiver with one remote, and then switching inputs on your TV with another remote. So it's a convenience thing. There are some other reasons to have HDMI inputs on your receiver as well. For one, many receivers will "up-convert" whatever signal you send it to a higher resolution. For another, to get the highest quality audio formats from Blu-Ray discs (Dolby TrueHD, dts-HD Master Audio) you need HDMI.

... or you can just run a optical/digital coax from the source into the receiver, and get standard DD or dts. That's assuming you'd be using more than one HDMI source, which it doesn't sound like you would, in which case I'd bypass the receiver altogether and send HDMI to the TV.

To put it directly on your website, where people can actually input their information, etc, would be somewhat difficult, you'd have to know some programming. To simply upload it and create a link for people to download, should be easy. If your web service won't allow it, just zip it, then upload.