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jason str

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jason str last won the day on May 9 2016

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  1. Thank's Jim, not always a good trait in a time crunch but if the OP chooses the textured roller it does hide ugliness pretty well.
  2. Bondo the dings, dents & corners if need be. Sand Quality primer. Sand smooth, prep is everything Duratex. Sand the Duratex between coats if you are not happy with the finish.
  3. Agree, if the wire is too thick to fit into your terminals you can always strip it down so it fits. The last 3/4" of the wire is going to make zero difference. Soldering the ends is a great idea as well.
  4. Deflector size is not going to cause a resonance.
  5. Play something that gets the noise activated and use a stethoscope to determine where the noise is emanating from. If a stethoscope is unavailable a long screwdriver, steel rod or similar tool will work holding one end up to your ear and the other end against the cabinet.
  6. Reflectors do nothing under 200 Hz, the sound waves are too long. Like i said midrange is what it will effect if at all.
  7. The only detriment with a smaller splitter i can fathom would be a slight loss of midrange performance if anything.
  8. Recheck the woofer dustcaps & leads. The crossover can create noise as well if not secured properly. A rubber mallet can be a useful tool for finding loose panels or parts. If you are worried about marring the finish put a facecloth over it securing it with a rubber band.
  9. Finish the brace through the driver chamber as well so you have bracing running all the way through one side to the other.
  10. Congratulations Bruce, now to locate the rest of the 1900 system. Best of luck to you.
  11. Duratex works great without a textured roller as well for a smoother finish. A little water mixed in using a Purdy microfiber roller worked best for me if you don't like the rough finish look. Duratex dries quick enough but takes a week to cure for shipping, keep this in mind after finishing the project.
  12. Last but not least you can drill out the stripped hole and glue in a dowel rod and re drill a new hole for the screw.
  13. Sound changes with the design. The K-33 sounds different in every model Klipsch makes (Cornwall, La Scala & Klipschorn) You want to match or better your sub to the mains for a seamless crossover, horn loaded sub with horn loaded mains or even direct radiating mains match great with horn loaded subs. If you find yourself turning off the sub to make things sound right you are either using the wrong subwoofer or don't have it dialed in correctly. If you never used a proper sub you don't know what you are missing.
  14. Remove the driver and mark the wires and terminals if there are no markings or note where they go if marked. Glue some toothpick pieces flush with the motorboard or slightly recessed with wood glue. Insert the old screws 3/4 of the way in and let dry 24 hours. Remove the screws, install the driver and reinstall the screws. Check the driver gasket in the process and be sure its in good shape.
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