jason str

Most of the subs on the market come from China, nothing is going to be near you.

Get a quote for shipping, door to door if needed.

If sending out an e-mail or few is too much work just go to Parts Express and buy 4 of those Dayton subs, double them up in the 2 best performing spots in the room would be a good start. Just to be clear. A substantial set of speakers needs substantial subwoofer(s).

I miss Radio Shack, luckily i stocked up before they went under.

Take a better look, these are BFM cabinet builders who will build you a cabinet of choice and have it shipped just like anybody else, there will be wait for construction and delivery. A copy of the plans are included with purchase.

Its not just about the best cable but the right ends will make all the difference.

A Table Tuba is not expensive to purchase and if you have neighbors to worry about even the single 8 version is a potent subwoofer.

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Brick and mortar stores along with online purchase sale prices can be found if willing to spend a bit of extra time, probably would have saved enough to buy some nice extra components. You can always shoot out an offer as well or work out a better price.

First thing, expecting a sealed sub to play with horn loaded models is not going to work well unless you buy multiples. Subwoofers should be placed where they work best, salesman guessing is only just that, a guess. Save yourself some headache and Buy something horn loaded to go with horn loaded speakers, you will be happy you did in the end.

You can run a Y connector in the same fashion to branch off.

Hard to diagnose issues without hearing the unit but its likely the amp or woofer surround is bad. These are the most common problems as well. Unless you are handy and can do repairs yourself it may be time to get some new gear. I recommend a set of bookshelf speakers and for power whatever fits your situation (receiver, integrated or mini amp).

Sold back to Jim. Enjoy.

That HK should look familiar.

Recently serviced and transferable 1 year warranty. $550 CONUS shipped Walmart money transfer preferred, PM me if this does not work for you. Not accepting trades or offers, I'm losing as it is but hate for this to just collect dust on a shelf. Preout jumpers not included but i will throw in a short RCA cable if you need one.

If it has 2 rows of braces across the horn mouth you are OK. If not its not the end of the world, it just bracing is key in the design.

Those were used in some pro sound cabinets as well as the Chorus series. If you don't need them just sell, i recall others looking around for some.

The horn mouth should be 18:- 24" from a boundary, corners work best. A 20" cabinet should have 2 rows of braces throughout. Can't understand why one would not follow basic building instructions in the plans, it will work fine but with added distortion due to lack of bracing at higher volumes. 300 watts is all you need with these, likely much less.

The back panel for sure, run a brace between the side flanges flush with the back panel. On the baffle you are relying on the woofer basket, look between the top of the woofer and bottom of the squawker. Run 2 dowels or similar between the bottom of the squawker and top of woofer basket to the added back brace, install 2 new screws through the back panel into the cross brace and be sure to seal (good weatherstripping ETC ) the back panel to eliminate leaks.

T/S parameters Some brands and suppliers offer matching sets for a premium.

Its quite common for individual driver variances from 5% to as high as 20% . Unless your drivers have been measured and hand matched to form a set i would not sweat it much.

Two horn mouths firing into insulation and one onto a curtain ? Jeez, people who make videos should at least have some knowledge in what they are doing.