ZombieWoof

why metal ? No injection plastic molding processes at the time that were cheap & reliable and then no modern plastics either like there are today would be my guess

+1 Peter, I felt the same way , what's so sad about keeping all your stuff ? at least you still have it .

that's why qualtiy power amps & a mid level AVR with preouts , when the Tech changes then it's way cheaper than replacing a flagship AVR every 3-4 years

they ship fairly fast & you'll find that prices are not bad as well , it's my go place on hardware , they have bolts that you can't anywhere I got some dbb wheel castors last fall for my Equipment rack that were 1/4 the price anywhere else 3X the quality they roll real well on a shag carpet

Mcmaster-Carr start with these , http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-threaded-sundry-bumpers/=og9w0s but there are many different items that would work even raw rubber rods & make your own

I had Dean do mine eventually and love them. The resistor mod will get you 70% of the way there (IMHO) and Dean is the one who told me about it. It's really easy and will make your speakers more enjoyable till you get the full blown re-do. CECAA850 is right ,1st do the resistor mod if $ is a issue but really Dean's & ALK's crossover networks take Klipsch speakers to the next level in SQ , Have Dean build a pair of networks for your 7's & be done with it . Klipsch is famous for cutting corners in the parts & design of their crossover networks . I have ALK's & love them in my CornScala & CS-1.5 clones

the forum can only do one pix per post Very Beautiful job on the speakers , they look real nice

I myself would do your homework on the legal issues , the City could give you a permit but that is not permission rights to publicly show a movie . you might do all this have a great time & then many months later get a bill from the movie's owner of the rights even thou it was a free affair there still might be a fee they would want from you I know this happens to small retail shops that play a radio station broadcast they come in wanting fee for just having a song they own play over the stores systems even thou it was a radio station . Just saying know everything before you jump into the pool . When I was playing Grateful Dead shows I had recorded them so they were my recordings the band allowed the recordings so no rights of any company were stepped on .

PM or email Dean he can help you the best . his contact info http://www.aletheiaaudio.com/ https://www.facebook.com/AletheiaAudio

Yeah , you need a room with a extra room on the other side of the wall the wall space or ceiling & attic or a hole i the floor & a crawl space ,I have all of the above in my house , but I gonna try the THT L P , that cutting holes in the house is not a wife [:@] friendly process . I'm gonna look into my house & see if a IB would work , but I 'll build the pair of THT LP 1st . Good DIY subs sell very easy , My SVS Cylinders will sell fast when I build the THT L P I have the skill set to build a set THT's that will be finished very nice , that's the best part of DIY if you build it real nice someone is always willing to fork over serious cash for your work CECAA850, That Black high gloss sub of yours would sell in minutes if you offered it up for sale .

For me the rubber hose is easy to work with you can use smaller diameter threaded rod & still make it look beefy shrink tubing will work as well & then you can cover the nuts as well but you lose that smooth look

Personally, I prefer the Dayton RSS390HF-4 15" aluminium cone driver. It's cleaner than the other recommended driver DVC385-88. The Rss390HF-4 was reproducing Cymbals rather well when I played music through it during breakin. I did not expect anything much above 800hz. The DVC385-88 is more sensitive but not as clean. The THT LP were all built in 24" wide 1/2 the width of a sheet of plywood except for a pair I built in 16" wide 1/3 the width of a sheet of plywood. For these 16" wide I used the RSS315HF-4 12" aluminum Cone Driver and they are also very clean. In 15", I have built a single a set of three and a set of two so as to experiment with the combined mouth sizes. The 7th & 8th were the pair of 12". The 12" pair are 16"x18" mouths, so you can add them together to create a combined 32"x18" mouth or a 16"x36" mouth. Currently they are set up as 16"x36" mouth and pointing at the ceiling with one wall on the 16" edge. When listening from the 16" edge performance is not wonderful. When listening from the 36" edge performance is fantastic. They are matched with my LaScala and I very much like the result. They have the LaScala clarity that goes out below you hearing when there is low bass in the recording. They don't invent there own bass like many other sub woofers that just woof woof woof. The THT LP are not boring they become essential. I like the shape 6' long as it's easy to place and point into a corner from any direction. I have finished my experimenting now and at the moment I intend for my Jubilee LFE to build a pair of 24"x18" with the RSS390HF-4 15" drivers and stack the along the back wall into the back left corner under the stair case 36"x24" mouth shape. The stairs are to be altered to be minimal and remove the risers having only the treads and stringers with two triangular treads in the corner then three treads to the floor. I trust this experience is useful in assisting with your choice. YES , this help immensely, that Dayton RSS390HF-4 is what I was looking at as a driver due to the rubber surround & AL cone , to actually have someone comment on how it works in THT LP is priceless to me . Bill's site the guys really just say follow the plans & not much else . that 24" x 18" size makes the best of a sheet of birch plywood , I have a local source for 4 x 8 sheets of 1/2" Russian birch . I hope to place them on the floor with the opening aimed at the front & then the rear corners

or he has a non stock horn/driver in the Khorns , that's what I thought he meant .

Nice Rack ! Justin , if you ever take that apart use some black hose on that threaded rod , gives a better,cleaner look I've done the hose trick on a few builds myself with threaded rod saves painting them as I found they are P I A to paint . to get low profile nuts I'd cut those nuts you use in half in a vise & use the cut side down Just a couple tricks on the use of threaded rods to give a cleaner look .

that mid horn set back in that hole is gonna sound like crap

1st that's NOT a stock woof that is a old XO with the oil & paper caps & look at the MDF in that one shot is crumbling , IE; cheap MDF that has been moist at some point Unless you want the horn ,drivers & an old XO for just parts I M O steer clear Garbage [N]

OK read the whole thread finally had skimmed it a few times in the last couple of years BUT now that I'm gonna build 2 THT Low Profile come this spring I thought it best to read it all , what great work from all the different builds , Peter what a great thread & a Great build the Stanley's are just too pricey for me & the L P THT will work for the living room better in my case I love my SVS cylinders but I want a bass horn can you say more about how that miniDSP works ?

Hey back in the late '70's & '80ies I used to do something like that with 4 '74 Cornwalls at Grateful Dead shows that were 3 day runs that allowed overnight camping in the parking lot 2K generator ,a Pioneer receiver that had A & B dual stereo outputs & my trusty Sony D5 tape deck , same deck & set Schoeps mics I used to record the same shows of the 3 day run , I'd record the show & all night > me + hundreds more would rock out to show again & again all night , I would sell beer, food & coffee to the Deadheads all weekend long . I'd leave the place with a fat wallet & tapes of the shows . I'd have the Cornwalls in semi circle aimed out from my selling area ,

[Y] YEP , [<)] Scrappydue , Is dead on right on his suggestion for backs ! get the RB-61II mounted as close to ear level as you can OR if you need them higher just slightly angle them down aimed at your listening position [Y]

So Dean how is the "Road Show" progressing ?

I myself hear where yer coming from & I also really DO NOT trust that statement that the Today's HDMI cables will support 2.0 . dime to a donut they drop a 2.01 standard real soon , That will make a real difference in cables then there's the ULTRAHD on the Horizon that is said to over shadow the current 4K standard I'm not dropping any serious coin on any processor as the tech curve is starting a steep up slope it would seem ATM amps & speakers is the best place to throw the serious wad of up-grade cash right now . all I can say is DO NOT want 32 tiny Bose speakers spread out over my room [6]

Yeah , New tech coming means discounts on current lines , just like when 3D hit the displays , just like when the new audio codecs a few years ago & then when HDMI 1st came on scene . The Tech marches on ! all processors / AVR's are all in for major changes real soon , to those who want to keep up will pay a premium @ 1st anyone who wants a deal they are gonna get better deals now as long as accept the now older standards . sure glad I when moved down to a mid level AVR as a processor a year & 1/2 ago over a flagship unit , those power amps I got sure are looking like a Great deal now in hindsight

your old cables will work but all the new features will not work on your existing equipment . your equipment is obsolete going forward , IE; all those guys who bought that great deal on the Denon of last year's model , it wasn't such a great deal after all

Everyone with a Flagship &/or highend AVR/processor is now frowning big time .

I found that when I added a PH800 horn to my Cornwalls it really was a very easy task AND the way Dave has designed his horns , his horn are even easier a simple router template & you're good to go !! , just a simple clean-out, sqauring up of the rounded corners is all that is needed after the router cut I found the SQ difference to be huge to my ears YMMV [<)] but I had added the CT-125 & a new CornScala XO from Bob But I did A/B with the larger horn on top with everything else stock as you did & the difference was very noticable to say the least