JohnA

Biamping Cornwalls would require modifying the crossover. It's not necessary. Since you are looking for a "sound" and are nearly there, you will have to listen to everything in your system. I'd suggest you try a Parasound HCA-750A or HCA-1000A. The 1000A runs in Class A up to 1.65 watts. Another alternative is B&K's St series. The old ST140 was supposed to be a really nice amp. The new ST55.2 and ST125.2 look good. The 55 watt ST55.2 has specs that look like it might have some tube characteristics and the 125s have MOSFET outputs. For a tube amp, the 6550 tubes are said to give good bass slam something like SS. I've never heard one and I'm not a tube fan.

Here ya go! I have a volt meter that can test caps, but in lieu of that, clip jumpers across the 2 uF cap to the tweeter, it it works, the cap is bad. If not, suspect the autformer winding for the tweeter. To test that, unsolder the lead and clip it to the squawker's autoformer terminal. If it works then, you need a new autoformer. Klipsch will sell you one, I think. And there is another source, if necessary. Do yourself a favor and use Hovland Musicaps for replacements. The 2uF Aerovox motor-start caps are no longer in production. Your woofers are different because one K-33-B was fried and replaced with a newer K-33-E. The -E is better in the bass horns. I'm not sure about a Cornwall.

Everybody is spot on! Specifically, tweeters get killed first because a flat-topped, clipped wave contains large quantities of very high frequencies, required to make it flat. On top of that, harmonic distortion consists of multiples (2x, 3x, 4x, 5x, 6x, 7x, etc.) of the original signal adding more HF energy. The voice coil wire is small making the tweeter intolerant of excess power. If you can hear any distortion, turn it down. Mild clipping sounds hard or brittle

That combo should be great! The type E crossover point is 700 Hz, but at 6 dB/octave. I'll bet the E-V horn can cover the 700 Hz crossover point quite well. Six dB/octave is such a mild crossover point and 700 to 800 Hz is only a note or so apart; it should not be audible. I'd be more concerned with the 8HD's response above 4k Hz. Mr. Paul designed his horns to reduce dispersion as frequency rose to correct for falling response from the PD5-VH at high frequencies (all compression drivers do this).

"If you're ever stuck-up the son of a ***** is gonna have the drop on you anyway, go for your gun and get killed." Likely true. The point/trick is not to get surprised and let him get the drop. That means being alert and prepared. Better yet, don't go where you risk one. Though I never see it, Chattanooga has terrible crime statistics. It is my intent to never see it, but also to be able to protect my family if forced. I don't feel like I have a white knight fantasy; sure don't want one.

Not only would Q use a loscala, he DOES! I'm using a modified Heresy I and it matches quite well. I'm using it laid on its side, but vertical would be better.

"If Ohio passes Conceal Carry, I don't really see me carrying but on the rarest of occasions. However, at those times, I would go with the Les Baer and level 2 carry (round chambered, hammer down)." Dean, I hope they do. TN and GA both have pretty good laws to use as models. I believe you will want to carry as much as practical when you are able. You need the familarity and the practice of wearing. It takes slightly different clothes. See miltsparks.com and ignore the prices; worth twice, I have 3 of his. Also see Thunderwear.com; very cool.

"Do NOT attend a gunfight with a handgun, the caliber of which does not start with a '4'" And I say AMEN! Can I get an Amen for Bros. Browning and Colt!?

While the K-horn is nominally 8 ohms, the woofer runs about 6 ohms, the mids at 30 and the tweeter at 8 ohms. See: http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/files/Fred%205c.jpg Biamping with two 2A3 amps is likely a very good idea. You should recover a HUGE amount of headroom that way. May I suggest you not drive both woofers with the same amp. There will be more power available for the woofers if the second channel of each amp is driving the highs. It might even reduce crosstalk between channels.

It can't hurt. If your amp's power supply is built right, it won't help except for the most unusual spikes/brownouts.

The obvious way is to ensure red on the amp is connected to red on the speaker. If you can switch your receiver to mono, place the speakers face to face about 2" apart and play a song in mono through them. Switch off and reverse the wires on ONE of the speakers. The setting with the most bass is correct.

Actually, the RB-5s are very small speakers. They will not have the bass output of RF-3s or RF-5s or something else full-sized. I expect a subwoofer would help them sound better. I see nothing unsafe in what you are doing, but you've wasted a lot of effort bi-wiring them. Biwiring sometimes makes a speaker seem bright. Try using one 16 ga or larger wire to each speaker.

Termites will eat the glue and paper off of sheetrock. If they don't like the glue, they will eat everything but the glue.

107 dB/w/m when mounted on a K-400 or K-401 horn. Other horns may be different, but not a lot different.

Looks like 1994 models. $800 is a good price if they are in anything like decent shape.

Driving great amps with a receiver's preamp is not the way to the best quality sound. Using an outboard amp rather than the internal amps relieves load from the power supply. It can then more easily maintain rail voltage ensuring the remaining amps can deliver full power more of the time. The difference in power output should be inaudible.

If there is no switch on the back of the amp and preamp, changing voltage will be expensive, but possible. You will have to have the transformers changed from 110 in and whatever out to 220 in and whatever out. The new transformer must nearly the same size and cause no more EM field than the original, too. Your step-down transformer is the best wat to go. Maybe you can find a better quality transformer. Hums are often caused by poor or no ground. Have a technician investigate the grounding scheme in your step-down transformer. In the U.S. the 110V scheme is black is "hot" (110V), white is ground, or neutral and the middle, round prong on the plug is green and a second or "safety" ground (neutral). White and green are connected in the circuit breaker box.

"Can I adjust power output of the reciever?" Yes. It's called a volume control. Don't turn it clockwise enough to damage your speakers!

It won't harm the speaker and is very unlikely to harm your amp. Obviously, watch the amp carefully.

Wow, Josh, it looks cherry! I remember a guy in the dorms at Tech that had one of those powering 2 Larger Advents! We thought he was nuts. It was *several* years ago.

tillmbil, It sounds like you made them incorrectly. Each twisted pair should make a + & - wire; i.e. all the solids are + and all the dashes are -. Then, each plenum of 4 pair should be braided into a cable. You should use teflon insulated wire to minimize capacitance. I did not hear a difference when I switched from Monster Cable to 11 ga. equivalent CAT-5. I have seen measurements that showed CAT-5 to be better than common stranded wire, but well above my limit of hearing.

Y'all are SO bad! I prefer Black Cherry frosting.

Khorn58, I have a TD-125 with a Decca London tonearm on it. How's that for rare? The Black Widow is the only tonearm with a lower moving mass; 4g vs 5g IIRC. if you pick the right cartridge, it should be very good. I'm using an A-T OC-9. I calculated the resonant frequency and it was just about right (7.5 Hz, I believe) in my case. Yours will be a little higher. I like it's sound and it was not too expensive. This is the only A-T I've ever liked, BTW. It is a moving coil, so you'll need a transformer or high gain preamp. With such a low mass arm you will have to pay attention to the cartridge compliance (you want it high). I sure wish I could buy a new Sonus Blue Label.

Hi Gil, My 902s are 8 ohms (902-8B). Is that what you are asking?

Oh Yes! It serves me right! I've been putting this off, but it's Christmas Vacation time and I need something FUN to keep me busy (besides honey-dos). The 511Bs will stay on top of my unmolested La Scalas, but I will have another crossover in the back that will allow it to work. One of the nicest changes I expect is losing the timing error between the tweeter and squawker. I did not consider it a real problem (and don't think it too bad now) until i got my upgraded ACT-3. It now allows the distance to all speakers to be set, even the subs. The result is a focus or tightening that I didn't have before and didn't have after until I finished the setup and measured all of the distances. I still don't know how I'll damp that 511B. I could have a box made and stained to match and screw it into it. That would hide what ever I did.