JohnA

1'-8" is 1.67 feet. Rearranging the equation, 1.67 feet is the wavelength od 678 Hz. Isn't that just about one of your Dips? It would appear you are getting a reflection off of the wall that is canceling the energy radiated off of the front the speakers. A peak could be similarly caused by a reinforcement of reflections.

My La Scalas were repaired with wood dough as far as I know and then treated with a conditioner to even out the stain. If you are painting, I don't think it matters much. The Type AL is not a good xover. Your best bet is to build a Type AA using premium components. John Warren did such. It will be cheaper than the ALK, but not necessarily any better As with the ALK, you can use it with the K-55-M. If you are not using large amps you could build a Type A even. There is a couple of Type A based designs on the Forun. Search for "brother".

Looks like you need to turn the subwoofer down. Also, look for distances that could cause reflections that reinforce/cancel the signal. For example 600 Hz is 1.9 feet. How far from the wall are your speakers? Wavelength, in feet = 1130/Frequency.

ROTFLMAO, John! What can/should be done to the crossover depends on what you have and it's condition. In most cases, the crossover is one of the last things to change.

These duffers are just pulling your leg! You need new modern gear that doesn't give trouble (blowing tweeters, well, it IS a college! ). I know a Cessna that needs to come home to see the the old home place and it has room in the back for La Scalas! $400 for the pair?

You have way too large a room to use Quintets. Have a look at an RF-15 based system. Four of those and an RW-10 or -12 subwoofer would do nicely. Not having prices makes it tough. You may be able to afford 4 RF-25s and an RC-25. The Synergy Series is designed to give a lot of performance for the money, so you may like 4 SF-2s and an SC-1. Go for the biggest RW-series sub you can afford in any case. Your room is almost square. That makes it more prone to resonance (standing waves). Expect resonance at 63 and 31.5 hz and probably 126, too. After you get the room together, listen for a few exaggerated bass notes and consider treating the room corners with bass absorbing blocks or tubes.

Dumb Crooks! Andy, White lightening is not good. It's a wax with solvent that evaporates to a thick cushioning film. Great for gears and chains, but not your TT. If you can't find a light synthetic grease and want to use an oil with teflon, try Break Free. Gun stores and fishing tackle shops carry it.

My preference is the H&K G3. It's pretty scarce these days and commands a premium price, but OH what a sound!!! There's nothing like it. For ones on a tighter budget the H&K 91 is some cheaper, but haven't been sold new in this country since about 1994(?). For the compact gear enthusiast the H&K MP-5 is great but is now strictly a collector's item and very pricey! Like always there are some foreign made copies available with varying quality. Some of the Greek-licensed copies of the G3/91 are supposed to be well-made, but stay away from the others.

Gil has started you in the right direction. Unbolt one of the diodes on the troublesome crossover and see if the tweeter works. If it doesn't remove the tweeter leads from both terminals to get it out of the circuit. With the one diode unbolted and the tweeter disconnected, check the resistance across the tweeter inductor. It should be just a few ohms, say one-half to 2. If it is shorted, it is likely your problem. If it is open, it needs replacement, but it is not the only problem. Next, you need to check the capacitors. I have a digital VOM that will measure capacitance. It was about $125. If you are unwilling to spend that, take the xover to a GOOD electronics supplier and see if they will let you test each cap (with all that stuff still disconnected). I'll bet you have a bad capacitor. If you replace them, I recommend Hovland Musicaps of the same value. Hovlands are $$$, but great in tweeter circuits. The second best cap would be a metalized polypropylene film like the ones shown here: http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=61 The 2 uF motor start caps are no longer made, so you won't be able to get one for replacement. If you find the inductor is shorted (or open) replace it with a good air-core inductor, say 18 or 20 ga. Partsexpress or Madisound.com carries those, too.

$300 to $1000/pair, depending. Post pictures.

Andy, I'm absolutely serious and I explained why. Obviously you don't want to use lots of it. As I remember those TTs had a light grease on the rod. If available, always use a synthetic, it's slicker. You did ask for best.

Nah. They are no good at all! I'd replace them with new KI-362s. You'll be better able to get parts for the new stuff. A college auditorium is no place for that old Klipsch stuff. Where are they? I'll make a donation to the University and pick those old, dirty things up myself. With a little scrounging, I might be able to fix the tweeters.

For lubricant, go to a bicycle store and ask for a synthetic grease for bikes. It will be lower viscosity than automotive stuff and cause less friction because of that. If they ask, "for use on what," say "bottom brackets" (the pedal axle). Old bottom brackets and new cheap new ones are not sealed and require repacking. If you determine you need more of an oil, ask for synthetic chain lube. It will go on thin, but the carrier that makes it thin will evaporate and leave a light viscosity synthetic oil that is a touch clingy. I guess any old solvent would be good enough. Lacquer thinner?

They're a little of both. Reducing spikes and sags, plus cutting noise cannot hurt. However, if your amps are of decent quality, their PS will be able to handle that stuff anyway.

Hmmmm, Post pictures. You've got something unusual.

Looks fine to me. I believe you will also benefit from changing the woofer inductor to a 14 ga or larger Solen Perfect Lay, or Alpha-core, air-core inductor. Al K. tested the cheap OEM inductors and found the value changed at alarmingly low voltages. That indicates saturation. The air-core inductors won't do that, keeping the crossover point stable.

You know, those would make DANDY speaker stands for my rear Heresies! I could paint them to match the walls and Cathy would not notice for maybe 6 months!

Look in the edge plys of the bass horn, near the crossover, for the SN stamped in the wood. This will help with the date, but I'm predicting late 40s/early 50s. For that reason, DO NOT TOUCH THOSE CROSSOVERS! We are all willing to help you design/build another set, but don't mod those. Clean them and put them behind glass.

Poor Klipsch.

That looks like a nice system for a room that size. Use an RB-35 for the rear center.

Kuol!

Hey Dad, Heresies and La Scalas can make a nice HT system. If the components are good enough, the 2-channel function will not be affected. That's the key. I don't think you will be happy with a cheap receiver. To get the most from your money, do look at used and try several Pro/Pros at home. Tube amps can be used in a HT system, but I'd be worried about the available dynamic range of 2A3 SETs. The Dolby reference level for dialog is 85 dB. A sub is a MUST for HT and especially with La Scalas. Don't scrimp, it will need muscle and low distortion, but properly selected and setup, it will be a wonderful addition to the movies *and* LPs.

I bought a pair of HIPs and the Type HIE network was nearly the same as a Type AA. I could not determine the woofer inductor's value, but I could get close calculating it.

I say La Scalas!

Dang it, Doug! You beat me to it!!!