JohnA

The crossover design probably could be used with the altec setup you describe. It will depend on the efficiency and impedance of the drivers. The component values WILL change based on the crossover frequencies and woofer impedance you will need. The autoformer is limited in the attenuation steps it has. Most, if not all are 3 dB.

I have heard the new networks and I have to say they are an unqualified success. There is a purity to the sound that is immediately apparent, but a little difficult to describe. I listened to The Eagles DVD and a Trisha Yearwood CD the brother's wife likes and that I'd heard several times before through a pair of ALK crossovers. The difference was not "life affirming" or "earth-shattering", but plain to hear none the less. Be forewarned if you build a set of these, the tweeters are hung out there to be blown easily. I'm still trying to persuade brother to go back and add djk's auto lamp tweeter protection (bulb #561).

Maybe I should clarify. We are planning o go to Indy June 20, and 21, with travel the days before and after.

The AK-3s are a two piece K-horn crossover used from sometime in the '90s through 2000. They are enough different from the AB-2 and AL-3 that I don't think you'd want to use them in anything but a K-horn. They are said to sound quite good.

Tanya Tucker has seen a few more bad miles than I have, but we are the same age. She lived in my county about 15 miles from my house in her teens. Might still. She was really hot riding a Hodaka in a bikini. Still, I had no courage as a 14 -year-old.

All K-33s are 4 ohms nominal. It should measure about 3.2 ohms DC. the K-33 is a horn driver, the Cornwall was adapted to use it. The midrange rises to the 70 ohm range, so 8 ohms is a sort of average rating.

Is is just me, or is the top grille brown and the bottom grilles black? If so, that does make them one of a kind and must be fixed. I prefer black. After you listen a while you can begin making mods, but wait until you hear a "problem". What year are those Belles?

Andy, You need to know that Tony has more Klipsch than anybody. Many years ago the BBS had a question of the month. One was, "How many Klipsch speakers do you own?" I believe Tony won by a landslide, maybe 2:1. I think he has more than Miss Valerie has. The MCM1900 may well complete his collection.

I have La Scalas. Under normal conditions (84 dB average), my amps are running at 0.01 watts average. When I turn them up loud, I'll average 1 watt and peak around 10 watts. Most of my listening is at small fractions of a watt, so this is where the amp needs to sound best. I will hit 100 watts once a year, so the first watt is by far the most important.

I'm glad you liked it! Removing the resistor and changing the cap will work just as well, except for one thing. The midrange impedance will be about 250 ohms. I think that's too high for even SS amps. Either mod should produce a generally flat frequency response curve, assuming the woofer doesn't have a big rise in output like many guitar speakers do.

IIRC, the 2205 has MOSFET output devices and a higher Class A bias. You should hear a difference from that. I doubt you will really hear much difference from the power increase alone.

On top of all of the preceeding, the horn throat is not the opening the woofer fires through. The throat is the area infront of the first splitter. Since it goes 2 ways, the throat area is twice the apparent dimensions.

You need 2 of the same woofers. You also need a crossover designed to be used with the Heresy II squawker and tweeter. A Type E might be usable, but we have little hard data about the HII components in order to make recommendations. With 2 woofers, the bass output goes up 6dB and the effective impedance goes down to half. You will have to modify the crossover woofer low-pass to account for the lower impedance and to increase the output of the squawker and tweeter. With schematics and more data we might make specific recommendations. My brother is doing the same thing you want to do with HI components and Focal(?) woofers. It will have the proportions of the HF horn section of La Scalas.

There's a drug called rush?

I prefer separates, but there are some good looking Denon, Sony ES and NAD HT receivers. At $1000, I'd be looking at used gear.

Well, isn't one of the problems that it IS cheap? Not only are HT receivers tuners and 6/7 channel preamps, but they must have a pretty high performance computer system and 5 to 7 high performance power amplifiers inside. If you apply $200 per section you get $1600 to $2000 minimum. Notice that a $200 computer, a $200 preamp and a $400 stereo power amp are not expensive pieces. That's why $2500 to $4000 HT recievers are common. I believe the "weak" surrounds is just a setup problem.

I used Netflix a lot before they went to a membership service. I don't rent a lot of movies in the summer, so paying a monthly fee for something I don't use seemed a waste. I never had a complaint when I did use them.

Heresies.

< Once again, I'll happily change my mind about anything if you can lay it out for me... I have no formal EE training, ....> I've done this twice already. Go your own way.

Huh? The first cap essentially sees the impedance of the squawker multiplied by the autoformer, or 128 ohms at 700 Hz. If you drop it another tap the impedance goes to 256 ohms. Paralleling the squawker with a 16 ohm resistor makes the squawker appear to be 8 ohms and shows the first cap 128 ohms again. That makes the crossover work as it always did. The 8 ohm tweeter will have an impedance of about 144 ohms at the squawker's crossover point, thus having little effect on the impedance seen by the first cap.

deam, you are trashy and uncouth. That makes you unwelcome here. We do not tolerate your language or attitude. If you still think this is a joke, you are sadder and more deficient than than you appear so far.

Regardless of the magnet type all that is likely required is a diaphragm replacement. It should cost about $25 plus about $25 labor, each.

The second schematic is for experimental purposes, but could be used indefinately. The 16 ohm resistor is in parallel with the squawker so the squawker cap is still correct. Both the tweeter and the squawker are to be moved down one tap (to one labeled one number smaller). One step reduces the output 3 dB and doubles the impedance seen by the amp.

It's XP! Get rid of it!

Pictures are important on both ebay and audiogon. Take seveal good ones and post 2 or 3 on either site. ebay is really easy. It will be even easier if you will read a few ads first to see how it's done. Be sure to detail what the pre-amp really is. I assume it is 2-channel only. If it is, say so and list things like the number of inputs and the presence of a phono section. A true nerd may well know what an AES-1 is but many won't, including me. If it is a tube amp, say so and list the tubes used. With good pics, in focus, you will get good money for it on ebay.