JohnA

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1394601083 These have the same configuration, except for the crossover, all k-horns had until this year. The crossover is easily changed to the more modern AK-3 or to other designs including aftermarket.

Yes; all K-77s will fit all Heritage models. However, think about how they're mounted, short wood screws from the back. If they were different, you could drill new holes easily.

Wiljam, The numbers of interested parties are looking good. I'll be sure to send out an e-mail for all interested people. Which brings up that subject. If you want to have another convention, please e-mail me and state your probability of attendance. It looks like this one will be in Indy in June. John colt4530@comcast.net

I guess NOS has nothing to do with "old"!

You are correct on the way the ACT-3 works and your subwoofer placement. I assume you are using the crossovers in the subs to divide the signal between the subs and mains. Per Dolby Spec, the LFE channel has no extra information, so you are not losing anything in DD 5.1 mode. However, I believe the LFE channel in dts is a seperate track and you may be losing it with no sub. With the Bass Management Upgrade to the ACT-3, you can drive the subs from the LFE outputs and accomplish the same thing you have now, plus get control of the sub level from the remote and be assured of getting the LFE from dts.

Look at 70s Yamaha integrated amps and receivers like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1394188985 It looks a little rough, but the little amps always sounded good. Stick with the 00 and 20 series (like CA-800 or CR-820). http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1395443681 John

I have to disagree with Mr. Mopar. Nothing short of one RSW-15 should be considered for use with La Scalas in a 23 x 23 room. I use 2 VMPS Larger Subs, in the corners and powered by 400+ watts/channel. They can barely keep pace. The RSW-15 can run with Jubilees. John

You need to listen to the horns unmodified for a while before you jump off into the pit of tweaks. I'd say 6 months. That said, you should be looking for K-55-V squawker drivers with solder terminals; they have more and smoother output from 4k to 6k Hz. Next would be flush mounting the tweeters with Klipsch "Z" brackets from the late 90s K-horns and Belles. Besides the brackets you'll have to enlarge the tweeter opening in the upper cabinet. After that I'd be looking at damping the squawker and tweeter horns. I cannot hear any difference due to damping the tweeter, but some can. Finally, you might try replacing the tweeter caps and woofer inductor with premium parts like Solen or Hovland. I replaced the 13 uF squawker cap in my Type AAs with Hovland Musicaps and couldn't hear any difference for my $120. I like the ALK crossovers I have. They're made with all the best stuff and designed for a nearly flat impedance curve. The ALK xover changes the voicing somewhat, but the results are surprising clarity. In my opinion, they're worth every dime. John

The difference between 80 and 110 watts is 1.4 dB. That is essentially inaudible. The 3803 may sound better, but it won't be because of the extra power. John

I once had a pair of Marantz speakers that had an oiled walnut finish. Once a year I would oil them up about twice with lemon oil (which was labeled petroleum distillates!) from Formby's, I think. My sister has them and they still look great, and work! They must be 25 years old by now. I'm sure this just throws oil on the fire, but I believe that's all a good finish needs. I may have only been giving them a mild cleaning, but I liked the results. I also NEVER put Endust or any other similar product on them. Dust with a dry cloth only. John

Dean, For $1200 you could buy a pair of cornwalls and mod them quite a bit. If I was going to build something, I wouldn't duplicate a Cornwall. The squawker horn would be too hard to find and you should be able to get more/better output from a different woofer, made for bass reflex, and a smaller box. I don't know the specifics of the drivers mentioned, but Tom is leading you down a path that is going in the right direction. A Radian 850 looks like a good candidate for an 800 Hz crossover point in a 2-way system. http://www.radianaudio.com/products/comp_drivers/2in_drivers.htm John

Those sure *look* like T-35As. You may have to try them to see it they have enough output. A real T-35B is 101 dB/w/m instead of 104. John

The woofers' voice coils can be burned out by overpowering them, especially with equalization and big amps. Heresies will sound like they don't have enough bass if they are not placed properly, inviting a bass boost. Those woofers can be reconed fairly cheaply. Call 1-800-KLIPSCH. Their 15" brother the K-33-E is about $100 new or $75 for a recone at Klipsch. Surely your K-22s will not be more. Layne Audio in Nashville has had an after market woofer for Heresies. You could try one of those. I don't think I'd believe his claims for increased performance, there is only so much you can do with that size box. Last time I looked there was at least one pair of K-22s for sale on ebay, too. The Heresy will just get down to 50 Hz. I'd say the bass roll-off starts around 70 Hz and then only if you have then against a wall. I suggest putting them against the wall and ceiling in your bar, woofer up. Then, use gentle bass boost (no more than 5 dB) if the sound is not well balanced in your room. Make sure your amp is big enough to handle the boost without clipping; 5 dB is 3.6 times as much power as no boost. If you want to rock the house, get a pro subwoofer and eliminate the EQ on the Heresies. An easy, safe way to test drivers is to *rub* the leads on the terminals of a 1.5 volt battery. Don't use a 9V. Finally, the crossover points for a Heresy are 700 and 6000 Hz. John

The K-77-M is also a T-35A, but with ceramic. AFAIK, E-V did not differentiate between magnet types. John

K-33-Es can replace the -Bs and should have improved performance over the -B in a Khorn, Belle or La Scala. If yours are in Cornwalls, call Klipsch. Yours can be reconed by Klipsch for about $75 each, but they may come out as -Es. John

I have an unused pair of La Scala grilles in chocolate brown. I'll take $25 for the pair. John

Al, I finally see what you accomplished. From 200 Hz up the impedance becomes more uniform with less phase shift. It that needed? If I were using tube amps, and being partially ignorant as I am, I'd want to trim off that 50 Hz hump in the impedance instead. John

That's a tear. The surround and cone are from the same material. You need a recone. Klipsch will do it for about $75 each. Do both at the same time. John

So far, I've replace all of the caps with Hovland Musicaps and disconnected the tweeter diodes. I have a pair of 12 ga. inductors for the woofers, but have not installed them. I didn't like the change with the tweeter inductor screw removed. I was given a graph that showed removing it exaggerated the 6k hump in the tweeters response. I heard more brightness and didn't like it. John

Yes! I replaced the caps in my Type AAs and really enjoy the results. The tweeter cap change was quite noticible, but changing the squawker cap was inaudible to me. Upgrading the parts quality will improve the speaker's clarity while maintaining to original "voicing". I would NOT do this to a Type AL, as it is too complex and has inherent problems. Convert your AL to an AA or an AL-3 using high grade parts. John

Doug's getting close. Does the speaker wire run near a flourescent light or run parallel and close to house wiring? John

If new cables brought out a hum, you have a ground loop caused by the cables or poorly shielded cables, regardless of price. Cables cannot be too sensitive, just poorly designed. Replace cables one at a time until you eliminate the hum. Cable burn-in is B.S.! Which electrons are bad electrons? What physical change can 2 volts max. (and virtually no current) make? What it you accidently moved the cable? Is the sound now shot for 2 more weeks? No real engineer would tell you such things. John

Mark, The DCR of the factory inductor is too high, no matter what it is. You should use an inductor with the lowest DCR you can fit and afford. Theoretical crossovers have no resistance. John

You need to check the continuity of the woofer's voice coil. You can use a volt meter to check resistance. It should be about 3.2 ohms. Alternately, you can remove the leads to the woofer from the ctossover and rub the connectors across the ends of a 1.5 volt battery. if you get noise, the woofers are O.K. and the crossover is bad. If not the woofer is bad, or the wiring to it is. The woofer can be reconed at Klipsch for about $75 each. John

I believe they start rolling off around 60 Hz. Start at 70 Hz on the Hsu. John