mike stehr

Whats so bad about Bose?

Well, You would have to separate the woofer circuit on the passive crossover from the midrange and tweeter circuit. or the tweeter circuit from the midrange and woofer circuit, though the first approach would be probably be a better way, due to the mid and tweet being horns. You could reconfigure the terminal block on the crossover for input for the bass amp and another input for the mid/tweet amp. It may require another terminal block. You could use a active crossover in a 3 way setup and bypass the passive network altogether. This would require three amps, though. It could be done with two amps, but still use the passive network for the mid/tweet section, either straight off the amp or a high low pass configuration on the active. Or you could leave the passive network alone. What are shootin' for here Colin, tubes on the mid/tweet section, SS on the bass section? THANX!

Yay. The joys of finding a 13mm tweeter replacement for a Sansui T-200 16 ohm 50mm alnico radial horn tweeter. Jensen Clone? Hunt them down possibly in Japanese websites or the main Japanese website for Sansui? Babelfish doesn't seem to cut it, and I can't seem to Email the Jpn Site. Fun!

I'm sure people understand what happens when things get rushed.

It may be crude drawing, but I see what you are explaining from it. THANX!

Whats one's opinions on the audio sonics of playing Redbook CD's on the Pansonic RP56? I just purchased one, and have been running regular Redbook CD's in it for about 4 hours and going still. Is it me, or is the 2 channel audio on this sound pretty thin and nasty? My Samsung 709 sounds a lot better on two channel audio use. OTOH, I like the looks, and the simple ergonomics. And it runs cool as a cucumber. Do any of you folks noticed if this unit needed a lot of break-in time? I know this is probably one of those subjective things.(The better sonics acheived from break-in periods of components.) Right now, the Redbook audio sonics are pretty scary. I geuss I could swap between the two, and use the Sammy for audio. I need to try a DVD next, hopefully this will be more impressive than the audio. I picked it up for video use anyways. THANX!

Thanks Al K! Mdeneen, I must agree. The LF information that comes off a pair of locomotives idling by at 50 yards can never be acheived by subs. Or Jets, etc...

I meant vibration of a plastic horn. I don't experience 'Rapid listening Fatigue', so I geuss I'm safe. I don't feel like tearing into my speakers to put rope caulk on the plastic horns, because the difference, would more than likely be small if even at all. Now a metal horn, with standing bass waves? At 1 meter banging on a cheesy Sansui 12 ohm metal horn with a bic lighter, (Out of cabinet,BTW) I get 92 to 94Db, 90 range, C weight on slow, with a rat shack SPL meter. I know this makes no point whatsoever, but wouldn't rope caulk applied properly, kill ringing in a horn from standing bass waves? (If the bass waves were a source of the ringing?) Not diaphragms, just the horn itself. THANX!

quote: SVS provides the proper interconnects with purchase. No Mike, I'm not really concerned whether the cables are gold plated or not. Maybe if I go for a DIY cable fo some sort. THANX! Mike.

Must be for a big family.

Colin, I was investigating these two amps online, from the looks of comparing pictures of the two, you wouldn't think the Audiosource One would have a chance against a Bryston 3B-T. The Audiosource looks so much cheaper, from the looks of the unit. This would be a listening test I would like to participate in, against these two amps. I guess sometimes those pretty heatsinks and extra weight don't make a difference. My NAD has dried out capacitors, wiped out transitor tolerances, and idles/runs way too hot, but it still works!

Thank you Mr. Lindsey! You've made my decision, I listen at about eight feet away. And I can ditch it in a old large antique dresser if need be. It has plenty of breathing room inside this dresser or whatever it is. (I think it's some sort of towel cabinet.) That will kill the fan noise, if it is even a issue anyway. Monty, A poster on another thread mentioned that Radio Shack carries interconnects that convert from RCA to 1/4'. Shouldn't be too spendy. THANX!

I seen one advertised at $339.95. Christ! How many online prosound retailers are out there?! SVS provides the proper interconnects with purchase. Though I'm sure you can find the proper jacks for a lot less. If they have it in B stock, the S700 goes for $299.00. But when does that ever happen? Everytime I check, they are sold, or are none. YEEHAW!

No help on cables or wire from me, Monty. I learned my lesson in the two channel forum. No way, nada!

Are these fans all that noisy? I don't want to listen to quiet passages on musc material with a pair whirring fans. Spotted a Mackie FR M1400. Convection cooled, $375. Refurbished,though. Ahh man, this is BEAT! Maybe I best just get a S700, and get over the Fan issue. I ain't gonna find better for the money, unless I go used, but I would like a warranty. THANX!

I think your right Monty. I'm geussing there isn't much in the way of convection cooled pro sound amps in this price range. I still would like to get away from the fan idea, though.

You mentioned this amp to me in those related threads. Do you think the 550 watt samson amp will push a pair of SVS 16/46's at enough SPL to keep up with a 440 watt Yamaha Pre/Power amp and a pair of Chorus II's? I would like a fanless amp, BTW. But I am concerned if the Fanless Samson you mentioned will have enough juice to fit the bill. The 16/46's are 350 watts continous, with 600 watt peaks.(Depending on music material.) You think this amp can do it? THANX!

Did you build the 24DB octave active X-over as mentioned? (Linkwitz/Riley?) I'm sure I will never get a overall flat response, but I should come fairly close. Plus, I could always just push the subs together. I know it's going to be a process to match a pair of SVS 16/46's, to a pair of Chorus II's, which already have plenty of bass themselves. (Then I have to factor in room acoustic correction.) ARRGH! THANX!

I wonder if a active x-over could make up for phase problems? (Invert signal at line level?) I don't know Al K's thoughts toward active filter design, but considering the passive components required for subwoofers, I would think this is a practical choice. IMO. I picked up a DIY 'Explorer' active crossover kit and trying to ponder out a sub design to suit my application. It really helps learning about active networks, Op amps etc... Though some of the equations get pretty rough, the kit has docs, and you don't really have to get that deep to build one. THANX!

Take any AV receiver or modern Circuit City dump and it will eat it alive with so much more musicality and life... Ironically, all the feedback said the same. I'll lurk the Ebay, but I'm too thrilled with that thought. THANX!

I looked at the Eico info at your site. Did a little net browsing on the HF81, and there is no bad feedback that I could find.

Where other than Ebay and Audiogon can one find one of these pups?

Well, I just went and took a big Bose.

'Cream corn from Davis's socket' Geuss that band. Picked up Lustmord 'Where the Dark stars hang' BTW. Haven't received it yet, but am curious to what this 'Dark Ambient' is all about. I heard a couple MP3's, nuthin' to get a feel for the album though. At the way Cornwalls are going, you can call them 'The bend over and grab your ankles walls.' THANX!

Grab some rope caulk and dive in there! I have some junk metal 12 ohm Sansui horn tweeters that ring like dinner bells. (I could see damping aiding these tweeters.) How could a guy notice a ringing overshoot in plastic horn mid/tweeters? What would this be noticed as? THANX!