Marvel

---------------- On 7/30/2005 11:16:27 AM meuge wrote: First, get burning software that actually works. I would highly suggest Nero from Ahead software. It's the computer industry standard. ---------------- The nice thing about standards is that there are so many of them. Your local drugstore should have the alchohol. You can get 99%, but you need to be careful as is is a bit more flammable. Rubbing alchohol is around 70%, and there is too much water to do your heads any good. Any that is 90% or higher will work well. Bruce

JBSL, Are you copying production CDs or are you making them from some other source material? If they are from LPs, then you need to make sure you are not going from vinyl to mp3 to CD. You would need to go from vinyl straight to (at least) 16 bit/44.1K wav file. This is what a Redbook CD is. If you are pulling mp3 files off the internet and making CDs, then they won't sound as good as regular CDs. Bruce

If it looks a lot like a long plastic Allen wrench, you can probably get a set of three or for at most electronics stores. Radio Shack probably carries them. Or here: http://www.tecratools.com/pages/datacom/alignment.html

---------------- On 7/28/2005 2:52:58 AM edwinr wrote: This android appears to have many of the features my ex-wife had. ---------------- No heart?

This guy tells how to repair them. Old tech, but it could help if you can't use them anyway. http://www.bobbyshred.com/emit.html

---------------- On 7/26/2005 7:33:13 PM jwcullison wrote: I think you guys are agreeing. Looks to me like the "flare" of Marvels schematic is similar to Dman's horn ---------------- Only because the last part of the flare widens out so much. BUT, the majority of the side wall is FLAT, which doesn't match a tractrix flare at all. A tractrix flare always has the wave front perpendicular to the side wall (Top and bottom too actually, but we aren't being that perfect). This means the side wall will be chaging all the way to the mouth. To quote someone else, I rest my case. Where's Dennis when you need him? Bruce

Have a look at the attached and you can see what I mean about the flare.

D-MAN, You notice how the side walls are flat? It isn't a tractrix flare. Look at Al's website (or any place that shows the tractrix flare) and look at his horn from the top. You can easily discern the difference. Bruce

D-Man Isn't that your P-Audio horn? I don't think that is a tractrix at all. A nice horn, but not a Tractrix flare. Bruce

Tom, If you had the speakers disconnected and used a multimeter set to measure current, you made a direct short across the output terminals. To measure current, your meter would have to be on one leg of the speaker leads. This is why it is a pain to check the current a motor is pulling. For that, the clip on kind is worth its wieght in gold (maybe not). Bruce

Who's laughing Dave? My son and I were talking the othe day about speaker size. When I got my JBL 4311s in the early '70s,they were (still are) called bookshelf speakers. Almost the exact same size as the Heresy. In the mid '70s they weren't considered big, but somewhere along the line, fashion came into play. Hi fidelity doesn't really exist for most people. ALL of the music department staff at the college where I work have little boom box or all-in-one systems for music playback in their offices. They think this is normal. Well, it IS normal to most. But they aren'thigh quality playback systems at all. The head of the music department paid me to come hook up her new receiver at her house. A lightning strike had taken out her old one. I don't even remember what she has, but both speakers were stacked on top of each other in the corner. So much for stereo. And I almost forgot. The Promedia Ultra 2.0 uses Class D. Sounds great too. This is an excellent use for these amps. Bruce

Maturity can really only come with time. Some things get worse over time and some get better. We always hope for the latter. Bruce

I'm mostly a two channel person, but I think you need a sound card with coax/optical out and a receiver with the matching input. Set up the sound card correctly and you're set. Bruce

Dennis, I just might give you a shout. Lots going on at our household, but I might like to swing these. Bruce

---------------- On 7/21/2005 9:22:45 AM BEC wrote: Tom, Excellent idea on the nomenclature plate. I may steal that idea. Bob ---------------- You gotta love this idea! If you were doing a bunch they could easily be done all on one plate and then cut with a bench shear. Might bring the price way down that way too. Bruce

Parts list? Are these all the same component values as the originals? It's a cinch I need to do mine now. Bruce

---------------- On 7/19/2005 10:40:32 AM Q-Man wrote: I'm told by a pro JBL dealer that he likes the sound of the BMS drivers over the JBL drivers that he sells. ---------------- No wonder diehard JBL fanatics can't find the products they want. Their own dealers are killing them.

---------------- On 7/18/2005 10:44:58 PM wuzzzer wrote: The manual for the receiver just says to switch it to whatever the ohm rating of the speakers are. I don't know where the Def Tech manual is, but I don't remember it saying anything about ohm rating. I guess I'll probably leave it in the 8ohm setting just to be on the safe side. I just thought the 4ohm setting may give my RF-25s a little more oomph. Then again, if I end up blowing my Def Tech sub it'll always give me an excuse to upgrade! ---------------- That should mean the ohm rating on the RF-25s. As I mentioned, the sub inputs, even using the speaker inputs, will present very little load to the amp.

I you have to buy the K52 drivers, PM me and let me know what you would want for them. I might be interested.

He doesn't claim his speakers are Klipsch. I can't say that for some here who have built cabinets to LaScala, Belle, or KHorn specs and then say they have LaScalas, Belles or Klipschorns. Copies yes, but NOT the real deal, even if loaded with Klipsch parts. They may sound exactly the same, but they aren't the same.

Shouldn't make any difference. What does Def Tech say it should be? It is probably set up to place a very small load on the amp through those inputs, so you should have it set for what your main speaker loads are.

---------------- On 7/17/2005 3:36:07 PM crazytubepower wrote: I must know this too...im tired of going to f**king jbl movies....They suck S**t ---------------- And how would you know they were JBLs? There are only about three theater systems in the U.S. They consist of JBL, Klipsh and E.V. I think those are the main ones, there could be others. They are all good systems, but like any system, if the person running them doesn't know what he/she is doing, it won't be very enjoyable. BTW, if my kids talked the way you do here (do you do this all the time?) you wouldn't be sitting down in comfort for quite a while. Since they are now all past their teen years, I'm glad to say they still don't use language like that. It is really required to live in a civil world. The quicker you catch on to that, the better off you will be.

I'm with Colin and Craig both on this one. Since I only paid $50 for my original ST-70, and then had it for close to 30 years, the money invested in the upgrades I did were well worth it. Both versions sounded great to me. I like the new version better, as I don't have to find the 7199s. There are better quality frontend boards than what I built, but it is still a solid sounding amp. Very pleasant to listen to and use.

---------------- On 7/17/2005 2:50:13 PM DrWho wrote: It's always the cable isn't it? One of these days somebody better invent a wire that is cheap and doesn't fall apart. Practially 99% of the problems with audio are with the bloody cables. ---------------- Dennis, What are you saying about the HII? Do you mean all of them? We have a pair of each in the house -- originals and HII. The HII sound a bit smoother to us, but not necessarily lacking. Bruce

---------------- On 7/17/2005 2:29:44 PM DrWho wrote: Hey cool, sounds like a plan. What about an AC adapter instead and then using one of those fancy diode tricks to convert it to DC? Or perhaps throwing in a transformer somewhere...there's gotta be a way to get rid of the ripple. In two years I should probably have an answer for this, but I dont' wanna wait that long ---------------- Uh.. that.s what a D.C. adapter does. Depending on the D.C. voltage required, you need a voltqge regulator and filter caps to smooth out the D.C. ripple on the line. For low current, like the phantom power, it wouldn't be too hard. Here is his phom power schematic: http://sound.westhost.com/project96.htm